Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams Collection

@RainMan_PNW (OP)

thanks for these amazing pdf's. needed to find a wire to tap for reverse up in the dash on an 03 tundra, as all the info i found pointed to a bunch of different connectors/cable bundles etc...

grabbed to pdf, traced it back, found that there is a relay for reverse tucked up above driverside kick. perfect. was even able to unhook it and get enough slack to double check the wire was correct and solder my tap. quick and easy.

so Thanks again

 

@usnen2
The letter in the circle denotes which of the connectors listed match that wire (the letter in parentheses on the list matches)

 

Anybody in here particularly talented in reading the wiring diagrams who can help me decipher something?

 

go for it, I'll do my best lol.

 

Just sent you a PM. Thanks!

 

How'd that turn out, Yotaholic?

Thanks, O.P.

This thread is just what I needed, since I can't find what I want: 2008 Tundra #EM08H0U - The paper electrical wiring manual. (PM me if you have one laying around, useless to you)

Just bought the complete 2008 Toyota Tundra Repair Manual (eBay) and thought the schematics would be part of it: Nope ... But, goodness! #6 volumes and each has a volume "A". So, #12 Volumes total.

 

So... (2008 Tundra)

You want to pop-out the ol' JBL (separately amplified) radio and pop-in a new-fangled Kenwood DVD/Navigation unit with (almost) all the bells/whistles.

You may wish to know what all the wires are sticking out from that empty space... which may help when the wiring kit you bought doesn't seem to work as advertised.

This might help: I opened the AV Chapter in Volume 5A and made a spreadsheet of the relevant wires, the 'Socket / PIN' location, and the function and test procedure...

(PS: I see RainMan_PNW and I are virtually neighbors... I'm Marion County, OR)

 

I did something similar when I swapped a 2010 JBL into my 2008 and had to figure out how to repin the harnesses to match the new wiring, plus add XM and USB ports.

 

I ended up swapping my entire transfer case out and my problems are solved.

 

It's been a nightmare! But, I 'think' I have it figured out...

The PAC RadioPro4 harness claims to retain front/rear fade, steering wheel buttons and factory JBL amp stuffs. (I believe these are valid claims I'm very close to proving true)
But there are several wiring work-arounds needed and a Mod I'm implementing:
Retain the factory microphone(s) into my Kenwood DNX697S (DVD/NAV) head deck: You must cut the Mic cable and splice it to the K9 plug at #1 and #2. (Shop told me it's a $30 cable - you could stare at the aftermarket mic on the headliner!)

I've been struggling to wrap my head around it all at once and the PAC Instructions have not helped, due to disinformation: It's designed for 2013 and up Tundra.
But I don't really fault PAC because I perceive the ?2007--2012? Tundra is an outlier: There's a CAN system (Toyota term is: AVC-LAN) but it's not all grown up yet.
Speed is in the LAN-CAN; Reverse and Park-Brake are not. The PAC harness/instructions misdirect regarding the wires for these (V, P, LtG) and the CAN wires (W-R/B tracers).

Wiring NOTES (=PAC):
REV (V) can be tapped at J77-8-Red. It becomes V out the other side - going to the Combometer "R" indicator.
PRK (LtG) can be tapped (with much contortion) at Park-Brake (O-wire).
SPD (P) is the white wire in K9 at the radio harness.
MIC+/- (none) are Y and BR, also at K9 (Factory Mic mod - unverified to date).
CAUTION:
The twisted Pink PAC wires are already CANned (at K4 plug / PAC #1).
So, if you follow the instructions you might think REV (P) and PKB (LtG) are at #4 and #16 of the DLC3 (these might be CANned for 2013 and up - idk).
In fact, I believe you'd send CAN(H/L) to the RadioPro4 from two directions at the same time, with an inexplicable result: Tach will develop a 'twitch' (among other Track and ABS faults at the combo-meter with engine on/running).
Following the Wiring NOTES above, you can discard (save for later use) the DLC3 connector (> Cool!) and your DLC3 can be used for other neat stuff like: a Banks Pedal Monster / iData Monster!

PS:
Per the harness chart attached to Post #217, I just realized the factory MIC may require amplification (? supplied by the factory head unit TBD)...
MCVD 7 LG MIC Amp Power Ign OFF -- ACC Below 1V--5V

PPS:

I then realized the iDataLink Maestro RR2 (avoided due to price-point) will perform the same functions as RadioPro4 (except F/R fading?) and add on-screen vehicle / engine data.
order / installation pending.

Merry Christmas to all ! ...

 

I suffered a disappointment last evening (might try a work-around later).
My neighbor (Toyota Tech) chased the MIC circuit on his cell phone (factory) APPs and we concluded my hopes for MIC retention will not likely work, due to differing gains.
In addition to the +/- MIC feeds, there's a MIC Amp line exiting the factory head unit, which means the factory MIC is powered (? voltage - if the same as factory camera 6V, problem solved) while the aftermarket MIC is not.
Since I soldered the MIC +/- before we discussed, I may try to plug it in anyway...

 

Use OEM Mic with Aftermarket Headunit | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Is that a pinata, or a bear?

 

that link should take you to a thread that discusses trying to use the factory mic with an aftermarket head unit. It's known that the factory mic uses an active amplifier in the circuit and will not work with aftermarket HU without additional fuckery - which is outlined in that thread.

 

It's a 'little' black bear ... and a Pinata full of goodies!

https://www.tundras.com/threads/use-oem-mic-with-aftermarket-headunit.93038/#post-3210309 (Also see PDX-Beav @ Post #25)
(NOTE: The plugs shown are for 2013 and up 28-PIN. Needs translation to Plug #K9 for ?2007--2012?)

I will intend the same:
A) 1K resistor inline of MIC+, and
B) 12V step down to 5V at MIC power: (+5V / Shield / Detect) < need to sort this out and add to the (#K9) Plug/PIN chart posted at #217 above.
i) Because I've replaced 12V ACC power port (left of ashtray position) with a round USB / AV-In adaptor, those 12V leads are tucked behind the dash and can be used for this (MIC powered only when ACC on).
ii) What will become of the constant 12V power port remains to be determined.

 

Thanks for sharing!

 

Yes... Thank you, RainMan! (also for your PM replies)

Having chased threads, researched wiring harness info and mucked about with the factory mic and a Kenwood head unit, I did figure out how to make them work together (for my 2008 DoubleCab only).
Have tried adapting the tech for two users that both own 2019 CrewCabs, although we've not completed diagnostics due to distance.
There are #2 factory mics in the Tundra CrewCab. The DoubleCab has one. I need a local volunteer CrewCab to confirm my design adaptation works! PM me if interested.

 

Two mics in the crewmax? Where?

my ‘21 has one directly overhead the driver by the sun visor. There’s a spot for a second one in the overhead console, but it’s merely a leftover from reusing older parts - there is no mic actually located there.

 

That helps my research (2021 may not have two mics).

Know I remember seeing pics of the backside of a CrewMax overhead console: 1) at the normal grill above driver's right eye; 2) copper leads go from there to the back of the console, likely for a 2nd mic at the rear of the cabin. I was looking for that pic because of what I saw in the late model wiring schematics (2018-2019 attached with 2017 and prior). I'm not sure about after 2019, because the TSRM-Electrical manual returns to the old-school method of diagram and I didn't look to see if the two-mic system continued there.

2017 and 2018-2019 Schema pics attached...

 

Thanks for posting these. Just saved my but from the U0114 code, no traction control, no 4x4. Used a tone generator and found a break in the power going from battery to 4x4 ecu underneath the airbox. Pretty sure it was rubbing the bottom of the box..Repaired and good to go.

 

Does anyone know of you can get actual parts for the inside of the actuator when I took my low out apparently I broke that diode or whatever it is that tells the thing to stop turning and I really don't have 500 dollars to buy the entire thing when all I need is that little piece to tell it it's in the right position to stop.

 

And bless ye rain main for all the info bro.

 

Hey RainMan, I'm a newbe here at tundras.com taking time to say Thank You for all you do on behalf of Toyota owners.
I'm utilizing your awesome EWD collection in an endeavor to troubleshoot my 05 Sr5 DC 4.7L 230K single click/thud from starter no crank issue.
I'll be spend the rest of the weekend reading every Thread I can find before asking/begging/pleading for assistance.
Have a good one.

 

Anyone have the 2024-2025 Tacoma wiring by chance?

 

great resource. thx for posting.
ur saving lots of peeps here hours of guessing, planning, research.

 

This is great, thank you!

 

OMG!! Thank you so very much for all the time you put into sharing these documents with the world. This is the way I believe it should be, sharing to all. I like to say "knowledge is power, if you share it"
Thank you very much
Simon

 

Welcome from NY.

 

Hate to be that guy but I'm trying to figure out which wire to tap into for amber grill lights for my 2021. I'm assuming parking lights so they turn on whenever my headlight switch is set to Auto but I've tried to figure out these diagrams and I'm so confused. Can someone point me to the right section? I'll keep trying to figure it out in the meantime lol. Thanks!

 

@rmorse
(Diagram picture attached)
Sounds like you want to get your Grill Lights signal from the DRL Relay Pin #5. This will be on when the Daytime Running Lights are on.
Realize it will be the 'trigger' signal... You'll want to route it through an ancillary (4 or) 5-pin relay which draws Batt+ juice for the actual Lights.