1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

You have to disconnect the brake lines, and parking brake stuff, remove 4 bolts from the housing flange, to pull the outer brake assembly and splined axle that fits into the ring gear in the center section.
Yes you have to pull the axles to do a re-gear anyway, because the axles have to come out before you can unbolt the 3rd member and pull it out the front.
Doing rear disc isnt hard, you remove the rear brake and axle assembly, remove the brakes and backing plate, and reinstall the axle assembly. There is a 4 bolt flange on the rear axle and there will be a bracket that mounts to these bolts in some fashion that will hold your new caliper. The brake discs will float on the studs and bore of the axle just like the front discs do. The caliper will mount to the bracket just like your front calipers bolt to the spindle. Physically mounting everything is not hard the hardest and trickiest part is the brake fluid.
I studied this 15 years ago when i did my own rear disc conversion on a tacoma, so i am going off memory but someone here might be able to back me up with correct numbers.
>In a front disc, rear drum configuration the front discs are getting +/- 1200psi of pressure to squeeze the calipers, yet the master cylinder is only sending +/- 500psi to the rear cylinder for the rear drums.
>In a front disc, rear disc configuration the master cylinder is sending +/- 1200psi of pressure to the front and back calipers.
When you have the master cylinder from a front disc, rear drum setup and you install rear discs, the rear calipers are simply not getting enough fluid flow to effectively squeeze the calipers to make them stop as effectively as it would if you had a vehicle with OEM disc front and rear and the master cylinder that flowed properly. This seems to be the most difficult swallow and to get right, spending $2500+ on rear disc conversion and they operate just barely better than stock drums.

I had rear disc on my old truck, i used Honda Accord rear disc and calipers and a proportioning valve. It was a 2003 with ABS and i ended up hating all that crap under the hood so i switched out to an older master cylinder without ABS and ditched the ABS and split the front lines and used a proportioning valve to the rear.

 

For $106.01 I own a jeep liberty, woohoo pentastar

 

Pretty sure the Sequoia and later model DC both have the wider rear axle, IIRC its 1" wider per side, so 2" wider overall.
Also like i stated above, the master cylinder on rear disc vehicles is different, and sends more pressure to the rears and acts as a proportioning valve on its own. I think the rear is getting less pressure than the front, but its still like more than double of what a rear drum setup sees.

 

got a sawzall?

 

Cab and flatbed

 

I ride a motorcycle, so i shouldnt be any sort of 'safety' guy, but i think i'd find something with a better rating to haul children in.



i refuse to panic stop in my truck. Someone pulls in front of me, i'm hitting to skinny pedal to conserve as much momentum as possible to keep my dog from flying through the windshield.

yes, my dog is more important than everyone in the ignorant vehicle. Which is why he's not allowed on the bike.

 

One of my favorite sayings ever, and i repeat it far too often, when someone runs out in front of me or is speeding thru an intersection when its my time to go, i say
"they are either gonna stop or hit me"
and luckily i can also say
"i aint'been hit'chet"

 

My sister can attest to this bad rating although she was broadsided in my nephew’s Liberty at an intersection. It fucked up her leg with multiple fractures and lacerations. Luckily, she’s recuperated and is back to normal.

 

So the primary headache with rear disk conversion is fluid, correct? Not the mechanics of the parts swapping, one adapter bracket and some wrenching and it’s done, then a lifetime of headache getting the fluid working right because it’s not designed that way?

And, there is no way to say, have an inline hydraulic booster? Something like a relay that can double fluid movement via mechanical or electromechanical methods?

 

Worst case, if it looks like a money pit, the local salvage yard will take it for $500-$1000 in scrap metal. Near $1000 if it runs.

 

2 motorcycle MC's: one with electric power & capable of an abs sensor, and the other for the rear axle, separately adjustable. And a small oil bathed ?puck brake? (Like riding mowers use) mounted to the tcase or axle pinion for a parking brake.

 

Well looks like I have water in my headliner that isn’t going away. Sounds like a phone on vibrate in an echo chamber when I get up to 60+ mph. Very annoying.

So just how do I remove the overhead console without breaking any hidden plastic tabs? Is it just these 3 screws and then it pull it down from the rear or in front?

 

Seems I remember just taking out the screws and giving it a tug. I do think there are some clips. I can get a picture of my extra one later but I'm not around it right now.

 

swap out the master cylinder from a vehicle with rear discs like the Lexus GX or 4runner or sequoia

 

So if it’s bolt on and this MC solves, why does everyone say it’s not worth it?

Pure cost?

 

Anyone have any good recommendations on purchasing and programing a key fob for a 2021 highlander that doesn't cost $400 like the dealer quoted? Got my grandparents in a highlander yesterday and they are in need of a second key (and the floormats that someone took out) so I'm trying to save a few bucks but want a good quality replacement. They will spend the dealer money if they need to but just trying to see if anyone has messed with any newer toyota (push start) programming.

 

I'm running a Sequoia MC with my rear discs; if I ever go to bigger brakes and the Sequoia MC seems to lack, I'd be interested in swapping over to a hydroboost setup.

This website sells a hydroboost conversion for our trucks that taps into the power steering. The booster can be paired with either a rear disc or drum 1" Wilwood MC. Good info on the website in general. https://www.powerbrakeservice.net/hybrsyfor20t.html

 

as a hoarder, i see potential. Put a cage in it & use it as sxs. Didnt he say it was 4x4 or awd? Are they unibody or BOF? I say full mad max with it. External cage, trucker spike lugnuts, plate bumpers. The external cage could even mount canopies or a RTT. When i lived in houston, it would have been the shiznit for galveston beach. Out here, its gotta have hd tires and at least as much ground clearance as the truck.

 

Properly set up drums are better than discs.

 

Pop off the map light caps. There's a fastener under there, maybe snap style. If same as my '06

Your middle circle isnt' a screw, it's a bumper on mine.

 

if you do a disc conversion kit, and master cylinder swap, and brake lines, you are going to spend 20 hours of time, $2800+ and have brakes that are +/- 20% better than properly working drums that come on the vehicle. Some report worse brakes than stock, this could be due to setup, bleeding, or still using OEM master cylinder for rear drums ect. This all together is likely why the general consensus is that its not worth it.
Me personally, i like the look, but i dont want to spend that much time for such little gain. I dont necessarily care about the amount of the kits, i would most likely build it all myself and have far less invested in the kits, but the amount of time it takes for the amount of gain that most report is the main reason i have not done it and likely wont do it.

 

I don't think there is a screw behind the lights on the older trucks. I pulled one from a junkyard truck just for the light lens, I pulled the whole thing to keep from breaking the lens by trying to half ass it in the junkyard.

 

You are correct. Only some DCs have dual rear brake lines. My 2006 DC only has the 1 rear softline. The VSC trucks have 2 rear softlines.

 

Anyone have pics of a headliner removal? The fabric on mine is starting to hang, and i oughtta address that while adding a camera screen mirror.

 

There is a clip behind the lens covers in later years, and you can break it. Pics of removal here:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/maplight-housing.103823/#post-2669541

It's a bit different from the DC, which can be found here:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/overhead-console-removal…-looking-for-a-little-help.120176/#post-3083543

 

That clip may be there and I just wasn't aware of it. I've never put the one I got into my truck, only used the lens out of it.

 

Maybe it's because I just billed for another chunk of my project, but this is tempting.


" Parts only no title. Good engine 4.7 V6 130k miles $1000 for everything"

4.7 V6? does not compute.

I really want a backup engine in stock and as a mock up to build some long tubes off of. Maybe I'll go check it out and see for myself what's there that's worth salvaging.

Any of you northerners want/need a Texas frame?

 

Looks like it could be a 2UZ, but with a CAI maybe?

Rollover. Wonder if the frame is OK?

 

I *think* I see a uz also, but hard to say from one shitty photo.

I don't see enough damage in the photo to be too worried about the frame, but that may be a different story in person.