1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I have an aftermarket bumper on my truck.

 

Just put some red pinstriping around those two cut outs - everyone will think you're driving a BMW. (the new BMW grill is just hideous.)

 

Most people (i.e. my neighbors, whose houses were built at the same time) bite the bullet and replace things rather than repair.

I was in this situation 8-10 years ago, and I opted to swap out the coil. But I supplied the coil (called in a favor from a guy in the n'hood I helped a few years prior) and ultimately just paid for labor and vacuum/refill, which set me back ~$1,150 all-in because the gd refrigerant was so expensive. My reality was, I'd have been wise to replace the compressor along with the coil to move to whatever the new-new refrigerant was, and I'd be all-in around $3,500 (Compressor, coil, coolant, labor, txv, misc parts) and I struggled with that thought, knowing a new unit could be installed for $5k-7k.

My choice would be squarely based on what refrigerant the 8yo unit is using, its efficiency compared to a new unit, and its service history. If it's the same refrigerant as a replacement unit and efficiency is similar, and furnace is OK, I'd just swap the coil and readdress this situation in 10-15 years, at which time you'll overhaul the units together. If it's been a burden requiring unusual service, replace with something nicer.

One of the big motivators for us on replacing all units recently was the furnaces. I'd already replaced the heat element downstairs, but both units were periodically throwing issues that signaled a problem with the boards, which can be bought refurb'd, and the coolant was 134 which is in short supply and high cost, so ... it was time.

 

It's on the "new" refrigerant apparently. That's what he told me yesterday. Either way, I'm out like $600-700 just for the test to find the leak. Praying it's somewhere easy to fix. I'll find out next week.

 

Damn that's a lot of money for leak testing. I'd expect $200-300. Should be like automotive, pressurizing with dye, and using glasses/blacklight to find spatter.

What's the original problem though? Outside compressor not kicking on? You checked the cap already?

 

Ha, I use reddit for a lot of my due diligence when buying/researching a new product. Nail on the head with them.

 

i second this motion. Big screen & surround sound.

 

Shit for that much you can buy all the tools, parts, and certification to DIY it.

Even the leak test all you may need is a manifold, regulator, and tank of nitrogen.

 

Yeah it is high. Everything is high now. The outside condenser is not working because all the refrigerant leaked out. Need to find the source of the leak in order to know what needs to be replaced.

I could be off on the test. The $1,300 is for the test, repair it if it's in a copper line, purging the lines(not the exact terminology he used but you get the idea) and then new refrigerant.

If the leak is in one of the coils then I'll have to decide what to do.

 

And for the outside stuff, it's the condensor (coils), not the compressor? I just want to make sure you're not getting hoodwinked. I assume Frenchy walked you through checking that, but just making sure. Bad cap will prevent compressor from firing up. If the compressor won't fire up, you won't cool, but everything else will work.

(and yes, purging = reclaiming/vacuuming)

 

Oh, and I ask this because the compressor is the mechanical part. The condenser is just the coils, if I'm not mistaken. But maybe I'm wrong.

 

The outside unit is called the condenser. The compressor is part of it. The fan doesn't spin. Nothing runs. It's because once there is no refrigerant it has a built in safety to keep it from running and burning up. That's how I understand it. If I manually push the button on the back of the contactor, the unit will run. I initially thought it was an electrical issue so I replaced the contactor.

 

Define "unit will run". Are you saying the fan will kick on, or the compressor will kick on, or both? You're 100% positive the compressor is kicking on, right?

The compressor and condenser are independent of one another, although compressor is usually mounted inside the condenser coil/housing. The condensor has no working parts other than its coil, unless you've got something I've never seen, or I'm totally bonkers.

Compressor compresses refrigerant (exothermic reaction) as it returns from evap coil, then passes it thru the coils where the cooling fan draws air across the condensor coil to cool it off, where it then it passes into the txv to expand the refrigerant (endothermic reaction) before it enters the evap coil to blow now-chilled air into your space. It's a sealed system, and these are the main working parts.

But if you're positive the compressor is kicking on, best to ignore me. Just like with cars, outside (residential) compressors won't kick on if refrigerant levels are too low, to protect it. But 1st thing to check if you're blowing hot air is always the capacitor. I would assume most HVAC companies would do that but IME, more than half of them don't give a shit. I just saved a close friend of mine thousands of dollars avoiding a new unit like three months ago, HVAC guy told him his unit was bad and needed replacement, it was just the board, which he scored for little to nothing (I swear I posted about that on here back in Jan/Feb). I had a guy - industry veteran, with tons of experience and rave reviews, try to sell me on a whole new system back in '22 when it turns out it was just the fucking heating element.

I don't trust the MF'ers. Verify the cap is not swollen if you haven't already. Just to be sure that's not the issue. If you want to replace the cap, you can get GE replacement caps on scAmazon for under $30 usually. Go with the same MFD/voltage specs. Take a pic and post if you need a reco.

They know you don't have gauges and can't test levels, and wouldn't know any better looking at their gauges. They also know most customers don't know what a cap(acitor) is or what it does or how to check it, and know they can use a $20-to-them part for a $175 service call (if honest) and a $7k new system (if they're not).

 

Yes I believe both kick on. Can hear the compressor and see the fan spinning. Where is the capacitor?

My bullshit detector is always on high alert and I didn't get the impression this guy was lying to me. He seemed to genuinely want to help and this company has a good reputation. Not saying it's impossible, but I didn't feel like he was trying to screw me.

 

I have great BS detector too, but the HVAC guy popped a fuse right in front of my face and played it off cool, like, "oops", and if it weren't for me having a Nest T-stat I pay attention to, I would've missed it and probably spent the money. Likewise with my buddy Matt who had an HVAC guy I'd used here previously try and install a new furnace. They're shiesty, or stupid, sometimes I'm not sure which.

The capacitor should be easy to find. It's typically behind a panel on the corner of your condensor coil housing. Turn OFF the power shutoff that should be next to the ouside unit. Find the compressor. Trace the compressor wiring back, you'll probably find it goes back to one of the corners. Remove the sheet metal screws to slide the metal panel off that corner, or look for a trapdoor otherwise.

Underneath it, you're looking for a silver tube like this --- DO NOT TOUCH THE TERMINALS OF THE CAP

​

The top of the cap should be perfectly flat. If it's bowed/swollen in any way, it needs to be replaced. When say swollen, good cap's lid is perfectly flat:

​

 

PS - every homeowner should have a replacement cap for their units on-hand. they tend to die within 5-10 years without fail, typically at the start of season in my experience. It's an easy thing to replace, just make sure you DISCHARGE the cap before touching the terminals, and take pics of the wire positions and the writing at next to each terminal so you know how to attach the wires on the new cap. These 'run caps' are what provide the energy discharge to kick on the compressor when triggered.

 

The last dozen or so times i've had to fix a home A/C its been the cap. And once it was a stick had gotten halfway through the grate & bound the fan up. And installing a nest t-stat at my buddies house where 2 of the wires were wired backwards (old man that lived there before was a diy type).

 

So ths is to lube the pistons? Sounds easier then other method heard of pulling plugs and squirting mystery oil in.

 

Oh yeah. Already inspected that one and it's fine. Not swollen. I forgot that was one of the first things @FrenchToasty had me check.

 

Yup, it's typically one of the first things to check.

• Verify breaker/power
• Verify cap
• Throw gauges on and verify pressure

That will typically tell you 90% of what you need to know. If it's not one of those three items, most people will blame something electronic, typically the board that's sitting on the furnace/air handler. Which almost always also has fuses on it you need to verify.

 

No, it's to help break down any old gas in the carb, hopefully get it squirting freely. It'll probably be gnarly if it sat for many years. Jut getting a head start.

Don't get me wrong, it's worthwhile to toss a tsp of MMO in each cylinder also, but the inline 6 in that C10 could probably have all 6 cylinders rusty, and it will still turn over and run like a top. They're mules. They really don't have a ton of issues with water intrustion or cylinder rust that I've ever seen

 

Serious question, dealer recommendations included fuel injector throttle body cleaning. Anyone know how important and/or difficult that is? I didn’t get a price yet.

Also, 11.7 MPG at last fill up, now to see if that goes up or not with the new O2 sensors.

 

Should improve greatly with the new O2 sensors. When they go bad, the computer runs a richer fuel delivery program as default.

 

TB cleaning is easy. Remove hose from air box to throttle body. Spray throttle body butterfly with TB cleaner and wipe clean with a rag. Actually get the rag as best you can on the back side of the butterfly and the inside of the housing.

Fuel injector cleaning is a chemical poured into the fuel tank. This can be done by removing the injectors and cleaning them one by one, but a dealer is not going to do that as a regular service.

Fuel induction cleaning is a cleaner run into the intake manifold through a vacuum line. You'll just need some of that cleaner in a bottle. Run a hose from all of the way inside the bottle to the vacuum line and allow the vacuum line to suck in the cleaner like a syphon.

As for importance, they do help knock out gunk and carbon in those systems. I do mine every other oil change because I have a shop and tools available, and I get the chemicals free to me from BG. I would recommend it every 30k or 2.5 years.

EDIT: I knew I had a pic of it somewhere
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1699#post-3322583

 

That's good to know. Thanks for sharing that. We replaced our windows last year and got an unexpected tax credit from it. I'm assuming it's part of the same bill. Wonder if it expired for 2023.

 

Last vehicle with a carb had to start (72 FJ40 with V8) was bone dry and had to funnel some in there to kick it over after the MMO treatment!

 

Great info. Do you have the product recommendations for the IC and FI cleaning, and which vacuum line to attach to in your pic?

 

I use BG products. You'll have to visit their website to find a local distributer or find one that will ship to you.
Products – BG Products, Inc.

This one is a pour in. Just add it to your tank. Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil are good for this too. BG Platinum® 44K® Fuel System Cleaner – BG Products, Inc.

This is the fuel induction cleaner. BG Fuel Injection & Combustion Chamber Cleaner – BG Products, Inc.

Throttle body cleaner. Although I'm sure any brand at you local auto parts store will work. BG Throttle Body & Intake Cleaner – BG Products, Inc.

I have never removed my injectors to clean them. So I do not have a recommendation on that.

Also, I use MOA in my oil at every oil change. It contains the extra additives that you find in High Mileage labeled oils. BG Advanced Formula MOA® – BG Products, Inc.

 

Anybody know what the bed drain plugs are called and where to buy them?