Injector checking replacement tips

Hey all

I have a 2001 Tundra 257k miles I just purchased a week ago. Needs some love and is misfiring. At first It was throwing codes p0300, p0302, p306 and p0174. Changed around plugs and coils and the code persisted on cylinder 2. The guy had put some NGK plugs and he said Amazon plugs to try to fix the misfire but it didnt work. He didnt want to put more money into it as he got a 21’ Ford now. He said timing belt was done at 150k. New spark plugs OEM Denso and code p302 still persisted. Threw in a seafoam, berrymans, MMO and no avail still misfiring. Misfires from the get go on start up although im not able to see if the CEL flashes because its not working but I can hear and feel the misfire persistently, also idles rough a lot of compression. Also my p0174 only appeared after the fuel additives.

Did a compression test and all the numbers read in the 200-220s except for cylinder six which was like 180. My next step is check injectors. Gonna try to switch injector 2 with 4 to rule out a bad injector. Also tested the injector with the screwdriver and stethescope tip. I can both feel and hear the ticking sound on all injectors.

My question is what else besides o rings do i need to check injectors? I read they dissolve when being pulled out. Also grommets i read? Do i need to drip them in oil or gasline before installing back? Silicone paste a thing? Any other tips?

After I changed

Thanks!

 

tested 2, 4, 6, 8 all 14.0 in a injector resistance test. i was gonna try to take out the injectors tomorrow and swap 2 and 4 to see if the misfire moved. my code is p0302 still only.

feeling discouraged:/

 

Good luck bud.

 

Theyre out. Switching the injectors now.

 

Switched the injectors in cylinders 2 and 8 and got a p0308. At least now I know i got a faulty injector.

But now another problem arises. I have yet to seem to grasp the concept of torquing not too hard. I broke a bolt. sjdfjcjskaksjsjdjdjdsjsjjsehrnd!!!

I cant identify the part but maybe you guys can help me identify it and know where I can get another bolt. And what is the best method to remove this bolt?

Also do should I go with Dirty Deeds injectors or does anyone else have any leads on injectors that are possibly cheaper and good. thank you!

 

I would only buy the DD-12 injectors if they were within 10% of the price of OEM.

Looks like you snapped the bolt for a fuel pressure regulator? I can look up the part in about an hour if nobody else is able. I'd drill and tap it, but only if it's easy to get to AND, if it sits proud once you pop the FP regulator off, maybe try backing it out with vice grips first, or notching it and backing out with a flathead.

PS solid job on diagnostics!

 

What site do you recommend for OEM?

If youre able to that would be awesome. But Ive been thinking through my process of removing the fuel rail and noticed that unscrewing those 2 bolts on the regulator was not needed at all. I can remove the fuel rail and injectors for my replacement again without touching those bolts again. Sounds lazy but how much of a bad idea is this? Id def have to tap it if I want to make it right as there is no leeway for me to back it up with some vice grips or anything. Never tapped a screw before either.

And thank you! Learned alot from this forums. A lot of ups and downs and emotions diagnosing this but I felt excited at the same time!

 

So you can't see the end of the bolt (i.e. there's no visibility of where it exits)? So, you like, can't turn it from the other side? No way to turn it at all? I guess the bolt probably bottomed out then. Bummer.

Parts locating/ordering: https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-use-the-toyota-parts-system-to-find-order-parts.113808/

For removal, if there's none of the shaft visible anywhere for the bolt, I'd use an EZ-out. You'd just drill the very center of the bolt and use a reverse-thread EZ-out to extract it (no tapping needed).

This is just a classic example of why you should have a copy of the OEM field service manual and a torque wrench, so this never happens again, typically if you torque to spec, it won't. There's a copy of the FSM for your truck near the top of this thread.

 

do you know if 05-06 sequoia/tundra injectors are the same as my 01?

 

Sorry, I don't. I would need a VIN from a 4.7 1GT to look up its part number and compare to my '06 to know for sure.

 

I was able to find some of these in a local junkyard from a lexus with less than 100k miles

my question is if i just replace the oem one in a tundra thats bad with one of these, can i expext any issues at all? its my understanding that these run 5 more ccs than the stock tundra ones but fit. also they are 12 hole oem compared to 4 hole oems

maybe im overthinking it