What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Sure, if your gauge is "sometimes rubs", "rubs a little", "rubs a lot", and "rubs a fuckton",
As it pertains to 32.2", 32,7", 33.4", and 33.8"

And seriously, all that extra weight you're asking for shit performance. My truck now actively hunts when I use cruise control in areas with even mild hills. It's pretty fucking annoying. Knowing this, I would never encourage anyone to go larger than the low 32s on diameter, unless regearing was planned, and they had camber-and-caster-adjustable upper control arms. They're going to be in a place of pain after otherwise. I don't like causing people pain.

EDIT: I know it's "cool" running big tires and whatnot, everyone loves measuring their dick against other people. But talk to anyone with a big dick, they all have at least a couple of sad tales of "you're not putting that in me!", I've swapped a few of my own stories with people who can relate.

Tires are about the same. For on-road use, legitimately, 265/70r17 and 275/70r17 are ample, and look plenty meaty on the right wheels. I've had a couple of people shocked I wasn't rolling 33s on my truck.

 

Which is where preload comes in.
I didn't know where you were rubbing.

 

I mean all problems that can be solved with time and money and effort. Just depends on where you draw the line.
I never really had a problem before gears and headers, but they definitely made a difference

 

Visual check: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1701#post-3327714

More info: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1702#post-3328255

Tag @ToyotaDude FYI

 

satx

 

Thats the next move for me 285 75 17s when these need replaced.

 

I mean. I come from a world where cutting out fenders and banging shit in to make them fit was a way of life lol but in all seriousness I will look into what you’re saying. As I really don’t want to regear and that was the initial reason I didn’t even look into going LT and 35’s. I just threw that idea out the window. But if the overall consensus is that when nearing the 34” mark it’s gonna be in my best interest to regear I’ll just run with the 285/70. Cause…meats…..

I should mention I went with 5100’s and 885’s. I’ll be ordering HD leafs next week. And then the wheels and tires

 

I'm going to have to agree with @455h0le_dachshund on this one. I'm running a bigger tire than you and based on what you're saying, I'm rubbing less. Something is off with your setup. Didn't your shop refuse to give you the caster you wanted?

You have very strong feelings about bigger tires. 285/75/17 isn't that big of deal if he wants that look(and it will look good). I considered that size a long time but I'm going to try pizza cutters next.

 

Nice. You're real close to Hidden Falls Adventure Park

 

That's a man's tire

 

Same I been back and forth between 285/75r17 and 35x10.5r17 in my mind for years now. More recently even considering 275/80r17

 

I would argue, based on input from the two guys on here who've downsized from 35s, that once you start passing 33s mark you'll want to think about regearing just to regain your losses.

I doubt you're rubbing less than I am, I suspect you guys are overblowing what I'm saying rub-wise. But I rub. I 100% definitively have rub events with my truck since lifting and jumping up two tire sizes. And it's not me rubbing flaps, it's not me kissing framerail, it's typically tires kissing various areas inside the wheel well, mostly during times when I'm seeing some kind of compression while turning, which happens on-road and off.

And you're right. I do have strong feelings about tires, because I think folks on here are too lax and maybe laissez-faire about tire oversizing, both practically, and realistically, to a degree that's detrimental to the casual passers-by and/or newbs. Some of the advice I've seen handed out on here can and will fuck shit up for some folks. I think normalizing 1" lifts and 31.6" tires for folks who are purely street should be encouraged.

Had I not learned better, I would think "no rub" to people on this forum meant you legitimately never rubbed, like never-ever. Or "just kissing framerail at full lock in reverse" meant that was literally the only condition you ever rubbed anything else, ever, under any conditions. I happen to believe 'words matter', especially for the newbs who - by listening to people on here - may think 2" lift ain't shit, go 3.5"-and-huck-it-or-gtfo, without fully realizing the side effects and real-world result until they already dropped their hard earned cash on the parts to get there and stuck with the consequences.

(Worth noting, it's not as big a deal to we who are able to wrench on our own shit and figure out what's wrong, find solves for things. But there are definitely guys on here - some of which we've helped with their 1st suspension ever - who may not be able to revert or solve problems, or even those who're having to pay others, which really sucks and eats $$$)

I'll go on record as saying, the guys at the shop did add more caster. I legitimately have no idea how much, and won't know until I get it back into another shop when I finally re-clock my UBJ, probably late March. I could definitely feel the difference in the truck's tracking after they had it back on the rack, wasn't enough for my liking, but improved over the original OEM numbers.

That said, there are definitely cases where I'm still rubbing, and based on where/when it's happening, I'm quite certain caster isn't the issue. I suspect when I do end up kicking my caster another ~+1, I'll probably be kissing frame myself, or rubbing elsewhere, under specific circumstances.

 

Sounds like 285/75 it is

 

what size/offset are your wheels? I’m going with 17x9 and -12. And I’ll even be entertaining the idea of a spacer if it calls for it

 

It's all in my signature:

 

And 17x9 @ -12 is what I was running before. It rubbed even worse with that setup. Here are my original wheel specs.

They poked a bit, there's pics around here somewhere. If I'd have tossed on a spacer, I suspect I'd have been eating my fender flares.

 

I'll finish reading your list after I say this:
2" vs 3" lift makes a difference.
Not too many people go with the 2" lift and plan to avoid trimming. Most would expect and plan to trim at that height.

 

I disagree with you wholeheartedly.

I say that, knowing I've directly replied to probably a dozen or two people on here (some were even semi-regulars) who believed they won't rub and won't need to trim shit at 2" lift and adding an inch or two of rubber, purely based on what they've read in old posts on here. And even I'm partially guilty of spreading that info by parroting what others have said. Hell, even *I* thought if I kept it at around 2" and only went up a tire size or two I wouldn't need to trim anything (that was absolutely incorrect), and now, post-lift, I know better.

It would seem, to me, tolerances inside the fender well are lower than what is generally painted. And that's fine, cool, it is what it is. All I'm saying is, that's not the message folks are portraying. I think the logical limit for "typical" alignment numbers with 100% zero rub is probably 31.6" on tires, with 1-2" lift, running 17x8.5 tires.

 

Not really. Lifting does not make more room in the wheel well. Lifting changes your ride height, but the wheel travel should generally remain the same, and tire will still hit in all the same places.

 

I was driving and looked down at the odo and I saw 309000. I grabbed my phone and it was too late

 

If it makes you feel better. I completely plan on hackin and hammering. Lol

 

Maybe it's because I've been around *pre-American Toyota truck* forums long enough that I just expect everyone to understand these old Toyotas don't like to go above a 265/75r16 or so without a little effort (trimming), especially if you plan to articulate the suspension (IE: off roading). Its pretty readily available info in the stickies.

I still think most people that do intend to off-road their old Toyota trucks on a 2" lift are aware they need to trim to fit 33's and if they aren't, that's why we're telling em now and why the stickies exists.

 

Yes you are correct when articulating, it won't change where your tires hit the back of the wheel wells, or the frame rail, possibly the UCA too.
It could change whether you hit the top of the wheel wells though. His stated issue.
Which is why all the geometry is important; from the caster, to the lift, to the tire size to the wheel specs, to whether or not you run wheel spacers.

 

Fuck
The way god intended.

 

the 255 70 17s I have now are pretty alright. Although I feel like I should have went with the 265s, but I was worried about rubbing.

 

Nice work. I should probably know but what CO and UCA is that?