What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I wonder if letting my ecu reset would help my 2mpg drop from adding the cap?

 

You lost 2mpg after installing your cap? WTF? I saw no change.

 

His is also a mid rise

 

Big cap & good noise.

 

That’s just adding to the aerodynamics.

 

Is that something that is just a "wait and see" thing? Or do I actually have to do something?

 

Nah, he's got a big spoiler

 

https://youtu.be/ZIdfebiDrNs?si=eYN_2WjE8gqjCFs9

 

Drive naked, that’s what I started doing.

 

But for real, I can dig up the thread if you want @ATBAV8, there’s a process for it.

 

Heee it is @ATBAV8 ans it was a 2003 guy, so maybe it will work for you. Relearning procedure is the 2nd half of this post. If it works for you LMK: https://www.tundras.com/threads/thr...nd-relearning-psa-how-to.121328/#post-3110398

A lot of guys went out and got Pedal Commander to solve the sensitive/surging pedal problem. At least one almost died because of that Pedal Commander product too. This seems so much safer an option.

 

I always just undid the battery negative for 30 mins and then hooked it back up and drove the truck conservatively for like 15-20 mins and let the ECU relearn on it's own. Then romped on it hard for a few mins and called it good.

 

I'll try that as a last resort. I finally got my head unit set up the way I want, and I'm afraid if I cut power, I'll lose all of my settings. Ridiculous, I know...

 

I totally understand that. I hate it when I have to reset mine.

 

I just take pics with my phone of my settings. So it's easy to go back if something happens.

 

This is a process that is still in place and used by dealerships and other shops on newer cars today. The only difference is we also perform a capacitive discharge prior to the throttle body relearn.

Please, don't do this. (not shifty personally, but anyone reading this in general) I had one on the Impreza. $300 waste of money. Yes, it made a difference in the throttle response, but it also fucked with the ECM and kept throwing throttle position codes. Also, it still won't "fix" a gummed up throttle body.

 

Does that do the same thing as the link proposed? There are quite a few threads here where folks (more on the 2nd gen side) are complaining about the pedal problems, touchy pedal, and I know they pulled power for more than 10 minutes. You think it's just a case of them never driving conservatively?

 

I don't know. I've never had any issues like that. Just when I clean the MAF and the throttle plate, I always unhook the battery and follow the procedure I listed and have had no problems. I read on TW a long time ago to do that. So that's what I do.

 

Ah. So, apparently there's a condition where some 1st and 2nd gen Tundras shipped directly from the factory with a pedal so sensitive that the truck will not immediately go when you start to depress the pedal, then the truck will just jump/surge forward at 1/8 or 1/4 gas pedal depression. The guys who deal with it say, "if you have it, you'll know". And most of those dudes felt pretty helpless until someone explained there's this pedal re-learn process. It only seems to impact vehicles that are DBW (drive by wire).

IIRC, in the earlier models, they're not fully DBW, there is a physical throttle cable? Not sure. But maybe it doesn't impact some years, that's all I'm saying.

 

Ok, I'm going out to try the cycling throttle 0-100 method right now. Will report back. Also going to take pictures of my head unit settings.

 

The throttle relearn procedure is very similar to my Ferd. On it, its key on engine off, slowly press gas pedal to full then quickly release, key off, repeat 3 times then start truck.

 

@shifty` and @455h0le_dachshund I am happy to report the relearn process definitely works. My throttle response is now linear, there is no longer a "dead" spot and then a surge of power! The only amendment I will make to the process is the step where it instructs to turn the ignition to ACC. That does not work. I ended up turning the ignition to the ON position and going through the process as written from there. Which makes sense. ACC is only going to power radio and accessories. The ON position is going to power everything. I sincerely appreciate your help, and the wealth of knowledge in this forum. I'm getting better at navigating around here, but your kind guidance is very much appreciated! -AAron

 

Thanks for confirming, and thanks for the added info. I'll go mark up my reply in that other thread with that info and a linkback to your comment here. I think I have this info in the megathread, but if not, I'll drop it there also.

Little by little we'll hammer out all these little gremlins and corner cases

 

My 2000 has a throttle cable connecting the pedal to the throttle body.

 

Covered my undercarriage in PB surface shield.

Oh, and did the same for the truck as well.

 

LARDASS LARDASS!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CH_aJDHT0rM#t=1m36s​

 

Fixed my teardrop DRL bulbs.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-1905#post-3441217

 

Now, where does all this stuff go?

 

Wait, what's that other damage to the case in the corner/to the left of the photo? There's holes there. Did you simply discover a casting defect?

 

Thats some less than stellar casting finish with some gear oil/grease highlights. Nothing to worry about. The case actually welded halfway decent for being cast, I was expecting much more of a fight.