100 Series Convert

Comfort level is high, I've done audio installs before. The lx470 I had was a full system, 2amps, headunit, door speakers, kicker cvx on kicker 1000.1. I know I won't get back to that level of loud, but I love music so I want to get some great sound. Seems like a sub install in this would eat space and I have a rear facing car seat to wrestle back there too.

 

Depends what you’re looking to spend. There’s a fiberglass enclosure premade to accept two 8” subs and basically replaces the cubby under the passenger seats. Have pics if you need it.

You’ll get added fidelity with aftermarket components, but unless you have a DSP to correct the factory head, you’ll benefit most from going aftermarket head. In which case other factors come in like amp bypass. But if you had a nice 5ch amp in mind, bypass on the OEM amp makes for an easy deposit of the OEM speaker runs right under the passenger seat, which is a great place to put the amp.

Clearly you have a budget difference here thought:

it’s maybe $300 to upgrade the speakers and roll with it.

adding a sub, amp, and upgrade the speakers is more like $1,500.

all depends what you’re down for and your budget.

 

Would 6x9s fit in the rear doors without any modification? Or is it best to stick with a 6.5 speaker for the doors?

 

I was absoluteyl thinking about this myself. I'd previously asked a couple other members to take measurements but never heard back. So when I had my rear door panels off recently to replace the vent window hinges and strategically sound deaden, this is what I found:

• OEM baffle pael fires the rear 6.5s downward at ~30°
• The plastic grid inside the door panel appeared form-fitting to line up somewhat with the speaker protrusion
• It looks like there's enough depth inside the door to support a shallower-mounted driver, but stupidass me, it's the one thing I failed to measure (I'm still kicking myself), and it may require a little metal trimming at the top of the hole, I didn't have a 6x9 on-hand to test that theory
• Otherwise, the measurements center-to-center* of the holes came out in this ballpark ( I concede possibliity of ~1/16" deviation here), which makes me think you could either cut a plate out of ABS and reinforce it, drill to fit there with your 6x9, or cut the OEM plastic piece to fit a 6x9...
• ... but even if you did, the opening in the door panel itself is only ~7", and aiming the sound downwards so if you're using a coaxial/triaxial speaker, and that's center-posted, the door panel design may nerf the sound (If I can find a pair of donot panels, I plan to tinker)
• Hope this helps!

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And just to put that into context, here are some very, very generic measurements on a 6x9 speaker ... the main measure I'd be worried about, but you could work around, is how much the driver protrudes:

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And here's the back of the door panel, taken from eBay:

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Thanks shifty! It sounds like I may stick with a 6.5 and worry about a small sub down the road. This is the cleanest vehicle I've owned so I'm not ready to get the Sawzall out lol.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1760#post-3391878

No sawzall required. You do need to make some carpet cuts, but I cut strategically so I could fold the OEM carpet out of the way, but if I needed to I can re-secure it later. (Edit: I mean ... re-tape and merge the OEM carpet back together, restoring it back to normal uncut appearance/function)

You'll need to remove the metal cage the rear seat rests on; this enclosure replaces it.

 

The q logic box is what I was thinking for a sub too. Have also considered getting mdf and fabbing my own for just a single 8 instead of 2

 

In hindsight, I would've preferred going this route, and potentially even going with a single 10. The appeal of having something out-of-box custom, ready to go, and decently constructed, recessed below the seat so the cone has some throw room, without having to think about the design or futz with construction was worth it to me. I don't really work with fiberglass, wouldn't have been happy throwing a baffle board in there alone. But the OEM cage ... I can get a pic of mine for you if you want, I think it's very doable to pull the passenger half out, seal it up (or fiberglass mat it), then baffle it to make a custom enclosure. I'm shocked more people don't do just that. But you'd likely need to go shallow-mount (which I did anyway even with the QL box)

 

I've got a couple people who I think could do just that or atleast guide me in it. As far as door speakers go, what ohm are the stocks? Don't wanna put new ones in and the not be as loud. Corr3ct me if I'm wrong, but in the future if I did a 5 channel Amp in back, and new HU. I could manually test the door speaker wires the Metra harness would have plugged into correct?

 

My OEM system was the non-JBL setup, the stock speakers I pulled and gave away to another member here were 4ohm. (proof)

Stock for JBL is 2ohm, at least in the double cab. One of a few important reasons you need to know if you have JBL or non-JBL system for OEM. I will assume the AC JBL system is also be 2ohm drivers.

For aftermarket components, there are a few manuf'ers out there who are doing 3ohm drivers, at minimum, JBL and Infinity. The shop I worked at in my much younger years sold primarily JBL and JL for amps and speakers, and that's what I stick with today. JBL has a really legitimately compelling offering for quality, warm reproduction without breaking the bank - like I typically say, "There's a reason so many respected concert venues and clubs use JBL stacks...", they're great for all-round true reproduction, esp. for live music. Not a fan of their subs or amps, I'm defintely a JL die-hard guy there.

I find Polk to offer great bang vs. buck at at a reasonable price point also. There are others out there that people may try to push, Morel, Focal, MB Quart, to name a couple, mostly using 4ohm drivers. I don't do MBQ anymore and with Morel and Focal at least, I really feel like you need to be buying in at a much steeper price point to get quality drivers. I'm not competing, it's a truck, I just need good reproduction from funk/soul to country to punk rock, live or studio.

The JBL club series are what I have in my truck, JBL Club 6500C components up front and JBL Club 6520 in the rear. For under $300 out the door, it was a worthwhile upgrade, but I feel like the 6520s are a little on the tinny side for my taste, however not as bad as many of the Infinity and Rockford coaxial options I've heard. That may change when I finally get off my ass and wire up my amp, then get to tuning stuff out.

Here's how I handled the tweeter install, utilizing the OEM bracket/grille for a stealth appearance. There's more info in that thread (I think) explaining where the crossovers are best mounted, if not, I've got some pics.

Trying to think if there's anything else that'd be helpful that's not explicitly in the megathread...

Oh, here are pics of what your under-passenger-rear-seat cage looks like after you peel the carpet back, if it gives you any ideas for a design. It is extremly thin metal, like the door skins on these trucks (if not thinner), so it's not providing much structure per se. I wish someone made a plastic bladder you could blow into this bastard while it was installed, then use that as a mold to make an enclosure.

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