Complete OEM+ Front End Rebuild - '00 4WD V8 AC - Improvements?

Hello All! I recently picked up Eugene, the Krusty Krab for $1,500. It's a 2000 Tundra Access Cab 4WD with the 4.7.

I will be using the rig for general truck stuff, hauling loads/trailers and offroading.

I am looking to replace the entire front suspension. I fully intend on replacing everything with OEM components except where an upgrade is reasonable. I would like some input if their are any products I should buy upgrades instead of OEM.

I have already replaced the rear springs with Rock Auto 'HD' 4/1 leaf units. I am building a steel flat bed and plan on towing/hauling with the truck so I wanted the extra load capacity.

On the way is a set of OME/Bilstein 5100s with the 2884 1.75" Springs

Also on the way is a set of JBA High Caster Upper Control arms.

In my cart at LongoToyota I currently have:

Lover Ball Joints - L & R
Lower Control Arms - L & R
Wheel bearings - 2x
Wheel Seal Inner - 2x
Wheel Seal Outer - 2x
Outer Tie Rod End - L & R

I can't bring myself to buy OEM inner TREs for $178. I will be replacing those with 555 units from Napa. I already have new steering rack bushings and my truck doesn't have a front sway bar.

My questions are:

1. Is there a better lower control arm option. Don't mind paying money for something Tits or paying OEM prices but not looking to drop 4k for some of the kits I've seen out there. If this is like a medium tits option for a little bit more than OEM I would do it. - I know I can replace bushings to save a few bucks but Eugene is pretty crusty.

2. Is there a preferred genuine parts place around here. I built my cart at Longo Toyota because their website is good. If I can save a bill or two I would not be upset.

Thanks in Advance!

Also, TTIWWP - Ball Joint let go when I went to turn the truck around to start repairing the front end. That was fun.

 

Read this: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Check this for #1 Q: https://www.tundras.com/threads/corner-of-shame-oem-minus-or-plus.122591/

And this for #2 Q: https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-use-the-toyota-parts-system-to-find-order-parts.113808/

Bilstein is OEM-upgrade. 4600 is basically what came with the TRD package. You can buy pre-loaded with OEM springs at one of the big suspension websites. 555 parts are better than Moog and others, if you can source them. But looks like you got 5100s already. Not sure why you got JBA uppers unless you're lifting, and if you are, you'll need more extras than what I see in your list. 1st link's suspension section will explain.

 

I'm amazed the frame is still in one piece. How's it look under there?

 

Yeah, read and know the first.

Second, why do you think I am buying OEM for everything, unless there is something better.

Third, This is super awesome. Thanks for sharing.

As I said, I already have OME +1.75 coils on Bilstein 5100s. I was inquiring about aftermarket improved performance lower control arms or components that were significantly better that stock. I purchased the JBA uppers because +1.75" is the minimum with the Old Man Emu coils and 5100s. I wanted the room to grow and there is no negative impact to running them at the lower end of their lift rating. Ultimately cheaper and better long term for my build.

I am well aware of 555/Sankei. They are the only company that can make a ball joint for Subarus that handles abuse for more than a month.

Frame got coated in 2012 by Toyota. Last service on the unit was in 2013 when it got new front brakes. Since then it's been a private property rig so it wasn't subjected to the ridiculous amounts of salt and road grime that occurs in the winter here. Only saving grace. At first glance the frame looks terrible which is how I was able to get is as cheap as I did. Once the Toyota bullshit coating was removed it's quite solid.

There are a couple thin spots but they are all in inconsequential locations. I will be plating and sleeving any areas of concern as well as adding some additional structure before coating the whole frame again.

$1,500 for a 4WD Access Cab v8 Tundra with 140k was tough to pass up. The thing about me is regardless of whether or not I spend a grand or 10 on a vehicle I am still going to do all of the maintenance and replace the suspension.

 

Sounds like you know everything already - I’ll refrain from input next time.

 

Not my first rodeo, just raising a different bull. Thanks for the noob bomb though. I did gain something from it.

 

That’s the problem - you see it as a n00b bomb. I’m linking you to legit resources to help fill out the missing things you aren’t saying you’re installing but will need, and answer questions you asked. You are lacking parts in your build, there are cheaper places to buy, and there is a thread already dedicated to non-OEM wins, which covers non-OEM LCA to avoid (at least), since there really are no current substantial upgrades - not to say nothing exists, just nothing “substantial upgrade worthy”.

But you do you. You got this, cowboy.

 

Short of buying new spindles, which I would love an upgrade for that isn't $5,000, or digging into the steering column to rack connection I can't find anything missing from my plans. Even with the links you provided. I'm not trying to be difficult, maybe I'm just retarded and am missing something insanely obvious.

 

https://solomotorsports.com/shop/su...kits-sequoia/stock-length-lca-tundra-sequoia/

these arent bad tits.

 

I was looking at those. Ultimately I was looking for the 'Harbor Freight' version of that exact thing.

 

I just reread all the links from your original response. Just in case I missed something. I can't figure out what I am missing.

 

Late to the party here and not sure if you already got the parts, but there aren't many LCA options. I went with moog, and they are ok, but the finish isn't as good as OEM. I was just going to replace the bushings with Siberian, but the alignment cams were frozen and had to be cut out.

If you need steering rack bellows go OEM for those, I didn't and they tore in a few months.

How are the CV axles?

The JBA UCA are a great option and less than OEM.

I've been very happy with OME shocks and struts, but never tried bilstein. Some say OME is too stiff, but I prefer a more planted feel.

 

That frame though…..

 

I’d be REAL tempted to procure a pair of the 2004-2006 spindles (knuckles). Both the 2wd and 4wd are the same. Reason being is that the newer style spindles use the larger style lower ball joints. You would also have to use 2004-2006 lower control arms.

 

I ended up going with OEM 2000 LCAs and Ball Joints with the JBA Arms. CVs felts tight and passed inspection.

A couple of my buddies have ran the Bilsteins in the past. In general they make some of the absolute best shocks and struts on the market, which is why only the highest level 'special trim' vehicles get them. In the Subaru world the factory Bilsteins are next level.

I priced new OEM LCAs vs just doing bushings and the price difference wasn't worth the work to me. My cam sleeves were frozen as well. I did go with a Detroit Axle steering rack over OEM. Was very difficult to justify that price difference.

That's the good side. It's a rust belt truck. Frame was coated in 2012 by Toyota. There were a couple problem areas but those have been properly fishplated and repaired. I call this truck Eugene Crabs for a reason. Crusty as fuck from under the sea.

Dang. I would of looked into this had I known earlier. I went with new OEM LCAs, Wheel Bearings and Ball Joints. It should last me a long time no matter what. New spindles were just too expensive to justify without it being a major improvement.