Popping backfire? 2006 DC

2006 DC with 189k. No cel. Timing belt done at 106k.
Took off from a light with the rear window down and heard this squeaky/popping noise. It happens only after a stop, as far as I can tell. Sounds like it's coming from between the bed and the cab, and I only hear it with back window open. Other popping sound I hear is driving at any speed, lift, coast and as soon as I hit gas easy or hard, feel a pop under my feet. only hear it slightly.
I didn't find anything exactly like it when I searched.
Sound familiar to anyone?

 

Have you checked your transmission crossmember bolts?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/inspect-your-transmission-crossmember.74691/

 

See reply #17 for the TSB, it's a known issue for 2WD. One of the 'watch out for this' items in this thread.

 

I have not, but will. It really sounds more like a backfire than something banging or loose

 

A backfire would likely fire up the money light.

 

The kids I work with pay big money to make their cars backfire

 

would if i could. My jeep had backlash.
https://youtu.be/ZNJnPB00l98?si=U8rMI6pzf0ZIs7IM

 

Yeah, I know, and no light. I'll check for codes over the weekend.

 

Ok, so I checked the transmission 2 bolts not real tight, tighten them, banging noise worse. Rear u joint on drive shaft is bad.

Read a little and checked YouTube, what's the best path for this? Should I replace the entire drive shaft $663 shipped for a Dorman, or repair the old one?

 

Which u-joint are you speaking about, so we better understand? U-joints are typically replaceable. Got a pic, it's worth 1,000 words?

 

Rear of rear half of drive shaft. One at the rear diff. Carrier boot / bushing looks bad too

 

Replaceable parts. Get Speicher carrier bearing

 

What he said ^^

And if you don't feel confident doing the work, take to a shop that deals with drivelines specifically, request they use Spicer. They should be able to knock out the work in less than an hour, easy peasy. I wouldn't hit up a chain store. Same with A/C stuff, always hit the shop that specializes in auto A/C.

 

Just checked everything again. Looks like the other 2 u joints are good, I can't tell about the carrier

 

Changed out just the rear U joint. ALL thumping and "chirping" is gone. I'll keep an eye on the carrier, but everything feels solid.

THANKS EVERYONE!

 

You live in Phoenix?

 

YW. Just a heads-up, and others here can vouch I'm the last guy who hassles anyone about carrier bearings, but ... you really should change that carrier bearing sooner than later. If you've never done one, make sure you mark the driveshaft orientations so you can line it all back up proper.

It's not like it's gonna fail tomorrow, but that seal is proper effed up, and if it's not causing a ruckus now, it probably will be in the next 10-15k miles or 1-2 years.

 

about 40 miles east of Phoenix

 

The greater basin, close enough.

 

I'll do it way sooner than 10k or a year. When I can plan it. Need truck to get to work, so I was just trying to get up and running. Yeah I know about marking them. when I went to mark it tonight, it already had white marks, so apparently previous owner had it done before

 

I’ll take a wild stab and say they used shitty off-brand parts.

If true, it never fails to amaze me how willing people are to spend 25-50% less to do the job 3x within the same timeframe OEM would’ve lasted them.

 

Weeeellll, I did the same thing. Duralast. Not much of a choice, needed it to get to work. If it lasts 10k, it was worth the $28,to not have to get a ride to and from work.

 

Not knocking, just saying. If the PO marked it, they probably changed it and here you are changing it again. $28 isn’t much of a loss to cut, toss in OEM (Spicer) and be done. Hell you may even be able to take the old part back if you have box and receipt.

Fortunately, the carrier bearing doesn’t have a photo graveyard the same way non-OEM balljoints do, showing truck after truck after truck destroyed, because the owner opted to use non-OEM parts. There probably quite a few bad things that could happen from that center support bearing failing, but none that will potentially total the truck, and potentially you along with it.

There are definitely places in cool with non-OEM and even encourage it. Based on real-world experience, bearings are one that I’ll always tell you to use Dana/Spicer, they’re good enough Toyota chose them to be the OEM. We have a dedicated 1st gen thread for good OEM alternatives (and parts to avoid) to boot.

 

I love the sound of an unrestricted straight six at idle. That smooth low rumble reminds me of vintage mahogany Chris Craft boats with the flat head six.

 

Thats still got a cat & a glasspack for a tractor.

 

Yeah, I'm good with the joint being nonOEM. i did the ball joints last year and went with OE without even considering AM. So ill pick and choose.

I had the front ujoint on my first car come apart and the drive shaft drop minutes after getting off a highway.