Frame rust - fuel tank

So I walked out the other day to find the fuel tank hanging down. The cross member is rusted through as you can see in the pics. I'm having it towed to the dealer hoping for a frame replacement (they said if it qualifies as if they are still doing it). Based on what I have seen I don't see how this wouldn't qualify? Input?

The frame pic is the cross member where the front fuel tank strap would attach. No way to attach, just a hole now.

 

Everything you need to know about the frame replacement, what you can expect to pay, and what qualifies, this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/early-1st-gen-2000-2003-tundra-frame-replacement-faq.54331/

This thread for all the other details you may need to know: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

I have read a lot but not seen the so you wanna buy a tundra link. Very helpful links, looking now. The frame has not been treated, I have owned it since 2003 and based on the other link I don't see how that hole in the pic I posted won't do it. That's the front red cross member in the post regarding frame replacement faq

 

That 1st thread should link to the campaign, which I think requires a hole in the crossmember above the spare tire carrier or similar? I don't recall ... doesn't apply to my newer model

 

I'll update the thread with how this goes down. He said frames take 6 weeks to come in if I qualify.

 

I know a couple of our Kentucky fellers from that frame thread had luck throwing a few extra bucks at things to get them to install stuff that isn't covered - upper/lower control arms, new shocks, stuff like that - you may have luck also. Sending lucky vibes your way, hoping for the best! You may still be in it for $2k-3k, but it's worth it in resale value on the back side.

 

That's actually what I'm hoping to do. In fact the dealer said if we do this you're going to have a small investment in it as well because there are things we just won't be able to reuse that isn't covered. If I get lucky enough they replace the frame, I'm going to throw at it whatever i can to keep her on the road.

 

Please come back with how it goes. Good luck

 

Yes had mine done in the past. They should give you lower control arms. Fight them for that. Do shocks as long as you plan to keep stock ride height. There's a few other things that are free labor (brake soft lines comes to mind). Good time for them to do timing belt and water pump if it hasn't been done recently. There's no discount but it's already there so may consider it.

If you have pictures of the spare tire crossmember we could tell you if it qualifies as long as you live in the proper state for it anyway, or just wait for them to let you know.

 

I am finishing off helping my neighbor replace the frame on his 2006 access cab. Bought a good used frame for $700, plus a 600 mile round trip to Ga to get it. Fixed a whole bunch of other little issues while we had it apart, new axle boots, ball joints, etc.
I figure he will be in about 2k when all done (no labor charges here), just parts.
His frame broke at the doubler just at the rear of the cab. Too many years of launching boats from the beach in Florida.

 

Were you two able to transfer the fuel and brake lines or was it easier to just replace them all?

 

Well hotdamn, if your neighbor needs any of this stuff because it was too rusty on his truck, by all means, give me a shout
https://www.tundras.com/threads/icon-aal-oem-upper-control-arms-leafs-swaybar-links-etc.131444/

There's a member somewhere roundabouts Tampa/Brandon area who I'd love to get a camper shell from, and if I can negotiate that and they're close , I'd be happy to meet y'all in the middle to trade up if it keeps me from driving 7hrs each way! I'm no stranger to the I-75 and I-95 corridor, probably got about 300k miles logged personally going between Atlanta-Sarasota and Atlanta-Miami and everywhere in between over the years

 

The frame we bought was a 2001 Ga unit. No rust at all. We saved and re-used all the brake and fuel lines. I had to replace the nut and reflare the hard line where it joins the soft line for the rear axle, as whoever took out the rear diff cut it with pliers. Buying a used frame from a pick and pull allows you to salvage lots of handy bits and pieces.

 

We got the front diff, control arms, steering rack, etc. all they wanted to save was engine/trans, cab and rear body (went into the scrap hopper). We got all the front suspension bolts, gas tank straps, etc. no extra charge!

 

Spoke to the dealer earlier, they believe it will qualify for a frame replacement and are waiting on final word from Toyota to lock in. He said with what he sees and the guy that has done most of them see, it should qualify.

He is putting together a list of parts I will need to buy so we will see what that turns out like. I will post an update when its final, timeline set (he said 6-8 weeks for frame to come in estimated) and the list of parts they say I must buy.

He said they don't do loaners ... I questioned and he is checking. I would have to think for a recall and the length a loaner should be expected.

 

Attached a copy of SSC 90M Recall pdf if that's what they change it under and in case you have questions for them.

 

That's good to hear. Definitely post up that list as soon as you get it. Want to make sure they don't charge you for parts that they should be paying for, like lower control arms.

I got a loaner for the duration of the actual frame swap. It came from an Enterprise that was down the road. Actual swap only took 2 or 3 days.

Here is a link to my thread. LINK

 

$35/day gives you 1/2 a rental car nowadays.

 

Business rates are different, I can get up to a mid size SUV for $47. I wouldn't be surprised if Toyota can do better than that.

 

Around our neck of the woods, it’s $40 day for Hertz. Probably a Fred Flintstone type car

Since recall was 13 yrs ago prices, one would think so

 

I meant their contract can probably get lower pricing. Like if you walk in off the street to rent an SUV here you'll pay like $85, our contract price is $47. A mid size sedan we pay $43, so I would think $35 is probably still doable for the amount of volume Toyota rents.

 

Got the call yesterday, they are doing the frame replacement, they did provide a loaner (dealer provided not rental company), and now its a waiting game. They are to provide a list of "recommended" parts to replace while we are at it. I will update the post when I get the list.

 

Congratulations! That’s huge. Will extend the life of the truck significantly.

I know you’re already going to be dropping a penny on this, but first thing to do, treat that new frame inside and out once done.

I’m sure you have it on your list already, but fuel lines and brake lines seem to be the big ones that cause people issues down the road. If I knew any of my old take-off parts would fit, I’d kick ‘em your way, but skeptical about the compatibility between my ‘06 and your ‘02.

 

appreciate it and I agree with all you said. Also thanks for the offer of parts but agree likely not to match up and be worth the effort.

 

Brake lines should all be included in the recall frame "kit". This is the latest update to the recall that I can find and gives you all the parts that would be replaced with no cost to you.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2009/RCRIT-09V444-0124.pdf

 

reviewing now and will compare to the list they provide. Thanks!

 

looking for suspension input, either direct buy this or indirect to help me figure out what to buy. I am not a buy it and see how it goes kinda guy, I need it to be right so I don't waste money. Right now I have the following rims and wheel spacers on the truck that is getting the frame replacement. I have the combination to get flush with the fender flares I put on it to cover where the fenders were rusting out and that worked out great.

BBS OEM Tundra 18" Rims from the darrel Waltrip edition...here is a pic
SpiderTrax 1.25" spacers all the way around.

I had to trim the plastic under the front bumper to keep it from hitting the tires when turning somewhat sharply at speed and the trim worked but it has to be close to hitting the bumper. That means they barely and frankly do not fit great but do work. I have 5100s upfront with factory spring and I think they are set on the center notch if I recall correctly. I need to get new struts (I will be replacing all 4 corners but front is the concern) so I need something I can guarantee will work and potentially improve the situation (at least not make it worse) but not make something else worse. I was thinking of the 5100s with OME 2884 but got to thinking that since its so close i may be better off with something adjustable although that certainly more money. I cant guarantee the lift I currently have to know how the 5100/2884 will match up. I can do a lot on my truck but I am not a suspension guy at all so completely a noob here. I do mostly on-road, no real off-road with it but do take it off-road to go hunting at times and do what I have to to get where I am going.

Input would be appreciated. I have read multiple threads but I am not sure how to translate what I have read into what will work in my setup and that's where I am asking for help since I don't know if I got 2" of lift, 2 1/4" , etc? I know its "around" 2" but.....

 

I’m sure you have it on your list already, but fuel lines and brake lines seem to be the big ones that cause people issues down the road. If I knew any of my old take-off parts would fit, I’d kick ‘em your way, but skeptical about the compatibility between my ‘06 and your ‘02.[/QUOTE]

The 2001 frame we put under a 2006 had identical fuel and brake lines. Evap setup by the tank, tank and skid plate, tank straps, all front end parts, etc.
We didn't find anything that was different on the frame.
Both trucks were V-8, 4x4, and access cab.

 

Update: Frame came in last Thursday. Starting today or tomorrow, said it would take approximately 5-7 days.

 

looking for input. They are trying to charge me labor for sway bar link and half shaft installs (I supplied new parts). I would think these would have to be removed to do the frame swap so why would I need to pay labor? Im fighting but let me know if I am off here. They broke a sway bar link and said one of the half shafts fell apart when removing, thats why I bought new parts (non-oem).