Let's see your first gen - photo thread

Here’s my first tundra, was an 01 AC SR5 4wd V8. It had 270,000 miles before I sold it to an uncle. Truck was mint on the inside and didn’t show much of its high mileage. Had some scratches here and there on the outside but other than that she was a beaut. After selling my AC I had already knew I wanted a DC. With the price of them rising at the time I thought I’d never find a decent one for a good price. Lucky my search ended and I picked up an 06 DC 4WD SR5 in probably the best color IMO. Bought it with 132,000 miles and couldn’t ask for a cleaner interior. Truck has grey cloth interior and a sunroof which I thought only came on limited trims. Bought the truck exactly how it sits and the only cosmetic thing I did was throw in Ivan Stewart floor mats that I bought off a guy through the forum. Yes i know they belong in a AC but they don’t look bad and they ultimately fit. It’s been a little over a year and so far I’ve changed lower ball joints, rear main seal(it was leaking bad), fluids, and pinion seals.

 

New here. Pretty vanilla 2006 4WD Access Cab. I see everyone doing some great builds, but I'm probably just going to do wheels, tires, and tint, then call it a day. I'm looking to get into some mild overlanding (not rock crawling) just to see some cool new sights, but not looking to do an actual "overland build". A nice $300 cot tent is plenty for my tastes. The truck appears to already have a leveling kit (bought it this way). If anyone knows the specs, I'm looking to go with SCS Ray10s 17x9 (3.5" backspacing with -38mm offset) with 275/70/R17s. Will this setup fit? Will it require trimming? Would I be better off with the 17x8.5 with 4.3" BS and -10mm offset?

 

I take it you've seen this thread already? If not, give it a once-over.

That offset sounds absolutely nuts to me. They'll stick out waaaaay too far. This is my truck on 17x9 and -12 offset (4.53" BS). I'm at, or maybe just beyond the edge of the fender and rubbing significantly on the front flaps. BS sweet spot for no-rub is supposedly 4.75, Ideal 4.6 - 4.8 if memory serves?

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1697#post-3321503

Create a new thread here on the forum with pics of what you've got - top and bottom of your front strut/shock, tie rods, swaybar links, upper and lower control arms. We can give you advice on where to go. But that wheel choice - I don't even think SCS makes that size in Toyota's bolt pattern?!

 

Yeah, that's how it all starts. Then the next thing you know it's a few years later and you've sunk over 5k into her.

 

Thanks for the reply. Yes, they do make them in 17x9 with 3.5" BS and -38 offset. I get confused as to the relationship between backspacing and offset. I've seen pics of @FirstGenVol 's truck with the Ray10s and that looks about right.

 

16x8 at -12 and 17x8.5 at -10 are the most common sizes you're going to find on 1st gens for SCS.

FGV is running -10 on his. https://www.tundras.com/threads/let-me-see-your-wheels.126855/#post-3240144

He rubs the frame at full-lock while in reverse running 33's (285/70r17) and I think 2.5" lift up front?

I'm running 275/70r17 right now on my access cab (which has different geometry from doublecab/sequoia) and I'm rubbing, even with ~2" lift front and rear. And that's not even at full lock. We have at least one doublecab member with a strut spacer up front that gives ~1.5" lift and he's clearing the same 275 tire as me with no rubbing. He's got BFG KO2, I'm running Mickey Baja Legends.

SCS is out of 17x9 at -10 in Ray10 right now. But anyway, create a new thread with lots of front suspension and a couple rear suspension pics so we can walk through what you need to be at.

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@shifty`

It looks like I'd probably be GTG with the SCS 17x8.5 with 275/70/R17. That would put me slightly smaller than FGV's, so could possibly eliminate the rubbing. Mine may already have a lift on it (I'm new to 1st Gen Tundras. I've had 3 Tacos, a 2nd Gen Tundra, and a 80-series TLC), but I'm really not up to speed on lift specs just by eyeballing. I'm currently on 265/70/R17s and there seems to be an abundance of space left in the wheel wells.

 

The rubbing really is not an issue. Don't let that stop you if you want 285's. It only rubs a tiny amount at very low speed and isn't causing any damage.

 

FTFY, spots in bold italic. I think it's pretty important to express there's definitely a sweet spot at certain heights and alignments to avoid rubbing.

 

My front end is barely lifted 2 inches.

 

If you rub, adjust your caster forward. That's why you got SPC.
If you rub the front bumper, trim it.
You can trim the plastic and the pinch weld too, but adjusting the caster might be easier.
I say this as someone with 295/75r16.
No I didn't mean 285

 

Definitely had a ton of space in mine with the stock 265/65r70, especially after lift. I could've stuffed both my kids in one wheel well.

There's no way you're not lifted more than me. But maybe I'm wrong. I think a small + caster tweak and the different wheel/tire combo would have me not rubbing flaps at 275/70. But ... we'll see.

Why bother? No point in cutting when you can let the tire massage it away for you. Not like plastic is gonna wear it down more than asphalt.

 

Well the metal pinch weld behind the thin plastic might

 

@FirstGenVol likely has more caster on his UCAs than you do with the SPCs in the neutral position, @shifty` .
But I don't know which UCAs he has or what their caster ratings even are. Just speculating. He does have a high clearance front bumper though. So he could, in theory, have some hella UCA caster like I do.

 

Exactly. I was lifted 2" to start and then I lost a little when I added the steel bumper. My caster is closer to 3.0 which is the sweet spot.

Fitting 285's on these trucks really isn't that hard. I didn't trim anything but I did remove my mud flaps.

 

I'm at -.75°, if I'm reading the chart correctly. I know I'm one setting away from the front most caster setting on my UCAs.
I had to trim the pinch weld to fit the 295/75r16's at full stuff on a 3" lift

 

I had been long overdue for a makeover. Decided to go subtle. A lot of the clear coat was flaking off and even had a little surface rust on the roof over the pass. side access cab door. The whole truck is Raptor liner in Safety Orange tint from TCP Global.

 

Holy cow, that's orange! Orange you glad you did it?!

Did you pop out the glass to get in those spots too? How does it look with both side doors open?

 

@veese
That's a bold move, Cotton. It's going to take just the right set of wheels to set it off just right. What do you have in mind?

 

Lol, it is kinda brilliant, looking that is. I am glad. Now when the game warden asks “where’s your hunters orange?” I can say hell I’m driving it! I only did the outside and the front part of the access cab door. I did take off the vent windows so that would be covered well. I got some left over black so I may just sand, prime and spray the stock wheels

 

SCS Ray10 in brushed gold. They almost have an yolky-orange quality in normal light. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/scs-ray10’s-brushed-gold-pics.585021/#post-19645830

And SCS staff have suggested they're only for the most discerning, avant garde truck enthusiasts who dare to push the envelope, they're "not for everyone"

They'd really pop with that safety orange, bigtime. Anything else, especially neutrals in the grey/black/brown range, are going to get sorely lost and drown out, make the rest of the truck look bad. You need something aggressive and bright in there to really challenge the orange.

 

I think you need true gold beadlocks with the trim rings painted to match the truck.

 

When you're going full backwoods meth pimp, there can be no half-measures.

 

It's a beaut! Welcome to the forum.

 

my thought is a set of Trailready beadlocks. Just need to dust off the rims...

 

He needs those. Paint the centers gold and do the trim rings the same as the truck. Even black with orange trim would look good.