Need Help! -ABS Fuse

Yesterday I replaced ABS sensors among many other things on my 2006 DC SR5. I have a weird noise and brake pedal vibration as I approach stopping speeds (under 5mph). It does not exist when braking at higher speeds or when accelerating. I believe it is a faulty ABS sensor. To diagnose this, I planned on pulling the ABS relay to see if the noise went away. I looked in the fuse box and can not figure out where the fuse is relative to the diagram. I've highlighted the ABS relays in the diagram below. Are they built into the long black and green boxes below? If so, I can't just pull these because I'll be losing all the other parts, right? Anyone have some advise?

 

Did you ever figure this out? I am having the exact same issue!

 

I did not find out unfortunately. I found out the ABS sensor that I bought on Amazon was just a bad sensor. After buying a second one and replacing again, the problem went away. OEM sensors are so expensive that I was happy to get the problem resolved even thought I had to buy a second sensor. The Amazon sensors were roughly $15-20 if I am remembering correctly.

 

Toyota Sensor bad? Or aftermarket bad?

 

Aftermarket was bad. Second aftermarket has worked since I installed back in September 2020 with no issues at all. Below are the links of the WORKING sensors. $16-18 each. OEM sensors or even sensors from AutoZone/ Advance Auto are wayyyyy more expensive so its at least worth trying one of the cheap ones first. Like I said, they've been great for the past 8 months.

$22 Bapmic 89542-0C010 Front Right ABS Wheel Speed Sensor for Toyota Sequoia 2001-2007 Tundra 2000-2006

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0714JXXL6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8

Bapmic 89543-0C010 Front Left ABS Wheel Speed Sensor for 2000-2006 Toyota Tundra 2001-2007 Toyota Sequoia

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS5LQOK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8

 

Are the relays below the black and green on the top part of the fuse box?

 

There are two fuse locations on these trucks:

1. Under the hood, as shown above, in the 1st reply
2. Under the dash, to the left of the steering column

Each has its own function, and the one in the engine bay has leads that feed the in-dash box, as in, there are things which can happen to fuses and connections inside the engine bay box that can kill power to different things in your cabin.

Depending what you're trying to accomplish or what problem you're seeing, it really determines which you need to be looking at.

 

I didn't see any ABS fuses in the cab under the dash. I brought the truck into a repair shop and their SnapOn scanner couldn't read any codes but my ABS light was on. Trying to check the fuse/relays but I'm not sure where they are located.

Are they under this black & green card (see photo)

 

Rather than focus on that, I would look at one of the common problem sources for these trucks when the ABS light is on.

Unless you've had maintenance done recently to brakes or anything to do with axles, I'd be pulling your ABS sensors at each wheel and inspecting them. If they're dirty, clean and reinstall. See if the ABS light stays on.

If you've had some work done recently anywhere near the wheels or axles, give some info on what work has been done so we can understand if it's possibly related.

Like, for example, say you had the axle seals or bearings replaced recently. That would be a huge red flag.

 

I bought this truck recently so I'm not entirely sure all the recent work history. I replaced front brakes, rotors, and upper ball joints, inspected and cleaned the ABS sensors (ABS light was on when I bought it). I just checked the rear sensors and the driver side ABS ring moves freely so I'll be add this to the todo list.

I'm still confused why the scanner didn't pickup any codes or was not able to reset the ABS light....oh well

 

You can't pull the ABS fuse on your truck. We discovered this when working on @jpink double cab.

 

Autozone that is local to me can read ABS codes.

Also, your brake fluid is topped off correct ?

 

Did you verify the tone ring was lined up proper? If it's off by even a millimeter, it can throw codes.

When you pulled and cleaned the sensors, did you notice any buildup on them, oil or otherwise?

I'd need to check the FSM to see if there's a way to test individual sensors. But really, before even getting into that, follow Bubba's suggestion and hit the LAPS to have them try to scan codes.

 

You can if your name is Erik.

 

Uuhhhhh.

 

We can on the 1st 1st gens. Mine is pulled right now.

 

Same here. We joked the DC stands for Double Complex. There is no fuse that can be pulled on John's truck after the Mangler breaks a wheel speed sensor.

 

I'm having the same problem. Found this other thread that offers some solutions to try.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/abs-fuse-location-problem-fixed.116710/

 

Have you tried adjusting your LSPV assembly to fix the ABS problem of it grabbing too quickly?

https://www.tundras.com/threads/better-braking-brakes-easy.33217/

I wish I remember who it was recently that was having these ABS-kicks-in-when-it-shouldn't (possibly after lifting rear, I forget), and adjusting the LSPV fixed their issue totally.

 

I have not checked the LSVP but it looks like the shop that installed my suspension adjusted it.

Also the truck has taken on many forms since then (shock install, leaf install 2in, truck cap +120#s, swing-out tire carrier intermittently used) So I might be due for yet another adjustment. I'll be checking this as well as the wheel speed sensor as well as my rear brakes.

Thanks!

 

I think this was probably @FirstGenVol's problem with ABS but I may be wrong. LSPV arm just needed a small adjustment after lifting. But maybe he remembered to do it. Or maybe I'm remembering wrong and he didn't pull his ABS fuse.

 

My fuses are pulled. Nothing I tried(and I tried a lot) fixed my random ABS activation I was getting. As discussed in this thread, later first gens don't have the ability to remove ABS fuses. I'm assuming it changed in 05 but not positive.

 

Did you extend your LSPV bracket when you lifted?

This is on a truck with a 5" Tuff Country lift IIRC. It's from the guy who tows crazy loads thru the mountains. You can fab your own, or buy a simple reloc brackets to compensate for the height you're going up so the LSPV doesn't need adjusting. I'll need to look at the FSM to see whether this is correct, but I feel like the orange circled part gives you about 3/4" of adjustment leeway to dial-in things. I believe the process is outlined but only have the 05-06 manual on-hand at the moment. If I can find the adjustment pages in there I'll share.

​

 

He talks about it at the 17m50s mark:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZoLH-7jMfA#t=17m50s​

 

No. I'm not lifted in the rear and not lifted that high in the front. My issue is something with the ABS sensor and tone ring on my front driver side wheel. It started immediately after front end work. Same as several other members.

 

Weird, I thought you were lifted out back.

 

I should be but ICON's AAL sucks ass. Either way, the LSPV wouldn't help my issue. Something about removing that ABS sensor after it's been in place for 20 years and it doesn't like that. Other people had the same issue. That thing has to sit in that hole just right apparently.

 

Main reason I'm not stoked about the prospect of popping out my knuckle to press out UBJ. Don't want to disconnect those SOBs. I think I might paint marker stuff to re-align them correctly before clean/reinstall if the updated press kit I got doesn't do me justice.

 

Thank you for this suggestion. I did adjust the LSVP more and it is getting better. I think I may have to add the bracket. I honestly thought I was going to have to live with this side-effect of running bigger tires and heavier wheels. But this has been a game-changer in my braking. Really grateful for this forum.