Bilstein 5100 with Torch add-a-leaf?

Just in case we didn't harp on OEM ball joints enough, they even make stickers.

 

Haha totally know what ripped off sticker that is

 

Good observation on your part. I was removing some stickers earlier that I didn't really care for.

 

Yup.

 

Got the ball joints, bolts and the cam sleeve today. $240 Canadian for everything. Pretty happy with that.

New Issue!!!! I’m looking at my replacement CV axles and there is a small gap on each side where they enter the diff case. They are in all the way. Looking at my OEM CV’s today I noticed a small metal ring on the diff side. I removed them and they look to be just about the width of the gap I now have. Here’s the thing, though, the OEM widens right where the ring fits, but I am nearly certain the replacements did not. Do I need to do something about this? All the videos I found online said nothing about it

 

Mine have a gap

 

Yeah. The ones I see on video do too, but it is interesting that that ring is removable and that the gap is about the same size. Perhaps it's a dust cap of some sort built into the OEM CV's?

 

There has to be a gap because the axle is spinning but the differential housing is not. When I initially replaced my axles I was confused by this too.

 

Yes, they have a metal dust shield on the differential side that is removable

 

Awesome. Thanks everyone.
Just to get back to my thought from earlier as I have to make a choice on what to send back. If I am going to lift the rear 1.5-2" to keep a bit of rake should I go with the 5100's that say the only do 1" of lift or do I go with the Rough Country N3's which are for 2-5" rear lift. I know the 5100's are better shocks and I got them for a song, but not worth it if they are going to be overextended. Thanks. Once I get a bit more cash I will replace the OEM leaf springs, but for know I will be adding the Torch. Even if I don't get the lift now because my leaf springs are older I will eventually, so I want a shock that will work. Thanks.

 

I'll make this simple for you: Never, ever, ever buy Rough Country products. For the most part, it's cheap garbage. Add Rancho and Monroe to that list also, they too have their issues.

 

The front can be set to different levels up to 2.25” or so on certain models of Tundra. The rear gives no lift, but will accommodate up to an inch of lift.

 

Welcome to the forum. If you use the bottom notch on stock springs, that's correct: No lift. And like KNABORES said, no lift from the rear shocks, shocks don't provide lift; any lift you may've observed was either placebo, or due to your old stuff being worn the hell out.

Really, the 5100 is intended to be used one of three ways:

1. Stock springs at bottom notch: No lift.
2. Stock springs at some other Bilstein-approved notch: You get about 1/2"-3/4" lift per notch on average for many cab types/drivetrain types, but you can't go above the 3rd notch except for certain cab type/drivetrain configurations and may lose comfort at each notch up (NOTCH CHART HERE)
3. Lifted springs at bottom notch: Whatever lift your spring provides, there's an assload more info on which spring to pick in the "Suspension, wheel and tires ..." section OVER HERE.

Thread linked in #3 should cover all the shit newbies typically don't know or forget, and what some folks who aren't new may not be aware of.

 

I'm using the greaseable Moog lbj, I grease them every 6 months. They've lasted 24k miles so far after the frame swap. And see shitty ass WI winters as my daily driver, fishing, hunt truck.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/fyi-moog-recall.101454/

 

Moog isn't what it used to be, they outsource their parts to smaller warehouses in China mainland now. The end result is what @des2mtn just showed you with the recent massive recall on Moog LBJ. Note it's a Moog part, but wasn't made by Moog - here's a link, make sure you aren't affected: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2022/RCONL-22E002-1411.pdf

One of these guys was using Moog LBJs also, you want to take a guess which one it was?: , , link, link, link, link, link, link, link

But hey. Live your life however you wanna live. If less than $200 is stopping you from swapping in OEM LBJs and fresh bolts for another 10-20 years of failure-free service, then bless you brother. I'm sorry you're stuck using non-OEM when it's been proven, exhaustively, that you should avoid 3rd party for this specific part, which is arguably the Achilles heel of these trucks.

 

I think they're actually sending out OEM ball joints for those that are affected so if you have Moogs you're really doing yourself an additional disservice by not looking into it.

This guy with later year ball joints for example...

 

Ha!! Even Moog realized their parts can't stack up to OEM, and OEM is probably about as cheap if you buy the Toyota OEM LBJ recall package part# vs. buying each OEM LBJ separately.

 

I'm using Moog part # K90262 and K90263. They are not part of the recall. Gen 1 Tundras had 3 different part numbers. My truck is from 2001. They were the originals when I took them in for the recall the boots were already torn

 

Dang Shifty, You have way too much time lol.

 

Nah, it's all copy-pasta

 

Can confirm the LBJ recall kit does not come with bolts

 

I had moogs on my 01. They were pretty new but I ditched them as soon as I could. Not worth the inconvenience or possible injury from trying to save a few hundred bucks.

 

You're not even spending more money. I checked for my truck at least. Moog LBJ are around $95/ea. If I buy Toyota's OEM late '04-early '06 LBJ recall kit for my truck (04006-62134), with both LBJ included, it's $185.

This isn't even about money. It's about people being ignorant of what's needed, and potential solutions available.

Posted earlier, but there's a recall kit for all ranges, although, with McGeorge for example, they claim they won't guarantee fitment so it may get weird around crossover years:

Late '04 - '06 kit # 04006-62134
Early '02 - '03 kit# 04005-21134
Early '01 - '02 kit# 04005-04134
​

Spiker's testing listed the bolts to get for replacement (8 needed) are Toyota Black Bolt w/Washer (90119-10933) or the ARP Bolt (673-1004). I think the Toyota black bolts may be the ones some complain are a hair longer. (EDIT: Actually, if you need bolts for yours, you may want to read all 4 pages of the Spiker LBJ bolt thread)

 

I never really liked the way that thread turned out. Ended up a bit too long. Need to condense one day.

 

I tend to agree. There's nothing stopping you from editing the 1st reply at the very beginning to say "tl;dr - if you have XYZ year, use p/n 123, if you have ABC year, use p/n 456" etc.

 

Yeah true.

 

Done. Double check if you'd like.
Thread

 

Moog got another one.

@shootemintheface

 

They won't let me into the group, mine hasn't failed yet