Need Suspension and CV Angle Help.

Do you think it feasible I haven't lost a substantial amount of grease or absorbed damaging moisture in the boots since lifting last month and that I could get by with just reclamping them? I guess another expensive option is the cvjs with the core charges. I don't know when i started slinging grease but I didn't notice any till after the lift.

 

Hope it doesnt. I left both stamped Bs facing forward instead of opting to flip them. I didn't see any noticeable difference so I'm guessing it's fine. Thanks.

 

I really appreciate the break down. I decided to get a refund tomorrow on the Napa CVs when they deliver to the store. Going to look into rebuilding or cvj with the core charges. Thanks again.

 

Ahh, okay. I think I was misinterpreting.

 

Absolutely, no problem. Sounds like you got her buttoned up for now, nice work!

And to your previous question on the diff drop, I don't think it's necessary unless you're gonna really lift it. I didn't like the angle it put on the front driveline, so I took it out.

 

F*******ck me man. I paid $500 for those axles at NAPA I spoke to the manager at length arguing the restocking fee and ate it. Only got $373 back. I hope keeping these OEMs are worth it.

 

I mean, you could always dispute the charge with CC company to recoup that money. That's some BS. The fact they wouldn't let you cancel when you knew you didn't want them is nuts. And the restock fee is more than an entire OEM rebuilt/reman axle costs from Toyota.

 

I ended up calling and emailing Napa corporate and am waiting for them to contact me. I got the ecgs bushing in. The tool looks janky lol. Hope it goes well.

 

That tool is all business. Looks good to me. Good luck sir!

 

Thanks man. Will try and find time to do it this weekend hopefully.

I tried to have my tires balanced Monday but sat for 2 hrs without it going in the bay so I just left to enjoy the holiday. Will try again next time I'm going to a city.

 

We are the same, you and I! @CascadeSkyline

I just ordered that same ish. Should've next day aired my bushing though... stupid stupid stupid!

 

I'm painting the frame, undercarriage, and wheel wells right now. I didn't notice till now after I painted it but am curious if this is some sort of balancing weight on the drum. Still haven't found the cause of my rumble. Had the tires balanced this week.

 

Guessing it's not since the other side has one as well. Man I sure wish I could find the cause of this rumble. Gonna do the needle bearing bushing swap soon.

 

I always thought that's what it was. Dunno what to tell you.

Stupid Q, but have you tried rotating the tires, front to rear?

 

I just did the bearing swap last week and it definitely helped to sturdie up the driver's side, but I do still feel a bit of vibration, so the ecgs might not be the answer (I still recommend it, did you do the cvs yet?)

Like shifty said, could also be wheel/tire related. I've been delaying checking their balance, but that's where I'm looking next.

 

Currently. Yeah it looks like I'm still slinging cv grease. Might order cvjs soon.

 

I'm under the truck now. First two pics are driver side. Last picture is passanger.

 

Band look loose on the 1st pic and it's pulled the boot back. Can you tighten those for the time being?

 

I can move it by hand. But I don't see a way to tighten this clamp. I am unfamiliar with them. There is no screw to tighten then and I'm guessing there is a tool for them.

 

I think @des2mtn had a link to a tool in one of his replies to this thread and it is very helpful. These bands are a real pain, but if you can move it easily there's your problem.

 

I'll order the tool when home. Alot has been happening at home my bad. I'll go over the entire thread when home and get the link and revisit all the helpful replies. Thanks again.

 

It's all good, man. A loose or cracked boot ain't the end of the world.

 

If you recently lifted and you're slinging, it's not unusual. Different articulation and angles. Tighten the clamp, if you can. Or upgrade to better boots, a lot of people seem to like the ORS Boots.

If you do end up getting new CVs, stick with OEM/re-man. They can be had for as little as $125 from Toyota, depending on time of year and market pricing.

43430-0C010-84 => reman CV axles ($)
43430-0C010 => non-reman ($$$$)
04438-0C020 => CV axle re-boot kit
09521-24010 => CV axle boot clamp tool (is spendy, get a generic ripoff on scAmazon)​

 

Blows my mind how good you are at finding part numbers. I tried using the new Toyota website recently and didn't have much luck. Toyota will also have multiple names for the same part. I think I saw both rack and pinion and another name for the steering rack. Still showed backordered.

 

I made a cheatsheet for my own truck, prior to the system going away, of parts I thought I may need at some point, it's scrawl really, partial screencap below. If I have the number in there and I know/think it's universal, I'll copy/paste it here.

But you know, I updated the parts finder thread to offer a better part hunting solution you should try. Check the edit at the top of the post with all the bullet points. You should try that system. It actually works really well. Credit due to @BubbaW for making me aware that EPC site existed.

​

 

I think it makes more sense to rebuild mine. Curious if I should order two high angle cvj inner boots. I just checked the prices on oem boots and they are reasonable. They come as a kit of 1 inner and 1 outer boot. So if I can get by with oem boots and not having to add the high angle the cvj boots it would be cheaper. Unless I can find two oem outers alone and pair them with cvj high angle inner boots.

 

Ordered 2 oem boot kits and the tool from Amazon. Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.

 

Hopefully only ordered the knockoff tool from scAmazon and not the parts. If you ordered the parts from scAmazon, I guess you'll know within the next 12 months if they were legit or not. If they're splitting and cracking as one would expect scAmazon knockoffs/whitebox parts sold as 'OEM' to do, you'll be in the unfortunate position of doing the job all over again. With zero recourse, of course. It's not worth any savings you may find.

 

Going to throw this question in this thread. I have a first gen tundra. Love it, but ive got maybe 4 inches of lift in the front, pairing Bilstein 5100 suspension lift with a 2" spacer lift. Obviously this puts a ton of pressure on LBJs, UCAs and CVs and all that. Ive been looking into a front end Long Travel kit from MCM Fab and Design. Anyone have any recommendations for this, or any extended travel CVs? First time using tundras.com lol

 

Don't go buying "extended travels" axles from a parts store or anything. If you're buying the MCM long travel kit, it's probably best to use their axles. Total Chaos also has +3.5" shafts that should work but you'll have to swap over your CV joints/ tulips from your stock axles. I'm guessing MCM's kit comes with just the shafts too and you have to do the same. Otherwise you'll need to get something custom machined with the correct length/ spline count.

Good reading on building a long travel front end here.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/lon...ld-papasmurf-sunnier-build-a-first-gen.44398/