General Supercharger Thread

Online I saw a few videos about adjustable bypass valves to control the rotor bypass plate. Interesting...

 

Well, like I said there is no such orifice on the Harrop bypass, so it can’t be that big of a deal to not have it unless they just sized the port on the valve itself accordingly for the same purpose.

 

Is the port positioned such that you're able to see the ID? Remembering that the jet is all of 0.035in. About as big as this period: .

 

Any thoughts or ideas... since I've been back the truck hasn't been driven maybe ten times. The last couple days we noticed Shifting into and out of first have been more harsh than normal. To make matters worse yesterday the truck decided to stop Shifting gears. Seemed to be in a gear that would shoot up to about 3k rpms and hold around 55-60 mph. I tried Shifting it into manual or sport whatever you call it and the screen displayed different gears as I was Shifting but wasn't feeling any Shifting actually happening. I'm thinking it's something with the valve body/ Shifting solenoids.. going to have a local transmission shop try to diagnose it soon. What do you all think? No codes or lights on the dash.

 

Looks like .162” according to my harbor freight special calipers.

 

I agree with valvebody issue or internal issue. This is the built trans?

 

Mine says the OD of the jet is 0.17"/4mm, so close enough. So I suppose that it could be considered that it has been established that it's probably okay to run it or remove it dependent upon preference.

 

No, but that's my next move if it isn't something simple/ cheap.

 

Low transmission fluid is likely the cause...

 

That would be wild, I'm not doubting it but how'd it go through transmission fluid if it isn't leaking?

 

Overland Tailor Tuning says they can tune the transmission in such a way that the valve body upgrade isn't necessary. But I know you have a fully built engine; might not be a bad idea to tune transmission first, then look at the vb upgrade

 

Thanks I'll look into them, but I do have the IPT/PS valve body upgrade already installed. I assumed PS tune the transmission but I guess they don't do that.

 

Still waiting to get the tune done but went out today and got on it and watched the AFR’s. Right where it needs to be so did a few more pulls both from a roll and dig. Felt awesome. Lights them up through first no problem. Boost spike to 8.8 before settling to about 8

 

I really gotta get a damn boost gauge.

 

RE Bypass Valves. Demo of a restrictor or snubber:
https://youtu.be/n6DqjmAB1RU

 

The truck is running again, after buying more credits from HP. The OBD2 port lost power during the tune, bricking the ECM. Lesson learned, always hook up and battery charger when downloading a tune. Thanks for all of the help.

 

Any idea why that happened? Anything different than any other time you've flashed?

I always drive the truck a bit to charge it up, especially if it was cold out, and then make sure everything (lights, fan, radio) is off, plus a stable Internet connection and then don't touch the laptop in any way until the flash is done. But who knows if that's a stringent enough process to be safe? Mainly I'm thinking I usually go driving for an hour and will flash the truck half a dozen times before going home, so not too feasible to hook up a battery tender (though I have a jump box but if anything I'd be more worried from voltage fluctuation from that).

 

I usually drive the truck before I download a tune to change the battery up, but I think the battery was just too low and didn't have enough juice. Because it was so low I lost power at the OBD2 port during the tune. I think it was just a combo of things, but it won't happen again.

 

HPT could really benefit from providing recovery methods like VFTuner. Lol

 

Finally got new 750cc (really 725 in my case) injectors, RCF throttle body (with adapter and bored out intake), griptec 2.3”, 450 walbro and new coupler installed. Likely should have gone Sniv pulley system but had the griptec already. Removing the stock pulley is not fun and was surprised how heavy it is. Another surprise was that although I was careful to immediately seal the intake ports the fuel ports share the same port so some dust around the fuel injector ls fell in and had to painstakingly clean them. Best thing I found was a wooden skewer with a wet wipe to clean around the valves. There is one open valve pair so watch out haha. Then when I fired it up the first time got P030x codes (misfire) and was scared I messed up then realized the prospeed/development fuel injector harnesses can be very hard to get to “click” and no more codes.

 

I'm surprised at how much debris flies out of there when I hit it with compressed air before taking things apart. I raid the First Aid box at work for the cotton swabs with the long wooden sticks for cleaning up the FI ports.

 

Yea no kidding, dirtiest part of the engine is the one place you can't clean at all (I guess that makes sense, but I never clean anything anyways soooo). I usually try to shove the shop vac in there and then dig out the shit with a cotton swab or something, which still seems to be extremely ineffective to the point I look at the engine and go "if you die you die" and just hope I don't spill 5lbs of dirt into the intake.

 

I really want to install the SnivSpeed 2.2 but A) it's 116 out & (B) I'm afraid of getting crap in there.

 

This wiring harness just kills me when working on the passenger side. I have yet to figure out how to create enough slack in it to make changing the injectors easier without removing the rail completely. And if you pull the entire rail out with the hose that runs behind the blower, have fun blindly routing it back in.

 

Yea I have yet to figure out a good way to do that side either. Between the huge wire bundles and the hoses and then trying to molest the fuel injector connector off...

 

Good, so it's not just me. Misery loves company.

 

Sorta supercharger related and part tranny related.
Has anyone installed the 15row setrab cooler from Geniunecoolingsystems? Any issues with fitting it with the Harrop intercooler?
I'm seeing temps of 250f city driving, unloaded, not towing and I am not comfortable with that.

 

I have a 20 row for sale and fitted it with the giant FrozenBoost 101 intercooler. I just had to flip the trans cooler backwards on the bracket

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rip-tundra-5-weeks-till-shop-visit.107594/page-6#post-3052327

 

@M3Tundra-JK
Did your SC sell?