General Supercharger Thread

Which one?

https://jcarpart.com/search?options[unavailable_products]=show&options[prefix]=last&q=mini-cat

 

hmm weird, but i think they are all the same. i bought the first one though. thats what it says on my receipt. bought 4 lol
idk why its listed multiple times

 

and the mini cats shipped from Houston via USPS

 

Whelp blowers finally on. Lots of tweaking to fit my setup but it’s running. Downside is they sent me a faulty intercooler pump so had to throw in my other one in for now. Did a few quick blips it’s pretty rowdy. Hopefully get it on the road tomorrow.

https://youtube.com/shorts/DdjG0hjreFw?feature=share

 

Hey thanks everyone for your help with the walbro/ti 450 install. Dropping the tank is an experience but once you’ve done it seems not so bad! Used two floor jacks to do a controlled landing. I used the optional summit 450 install kit that was great, used their fuel line, wires, etc. everything I needed. Modified the basket to have a dozen 5/8” holes and a large opening in the top to make the summit fuel line fit easier. I ended up using three stainless steel ties to keep the pump upright and tight. First turn over was long but that’s likely due to no fuel pressure then several turn off/ons on the test drive had OEM like experience. Next up is stage ??? 2.3” pulley, RCF throttle body, 750 injectors, colder plugs, ARH headers with 3” BAM race exhaust haha.

 

I have ARH high flow and have zero issues. Aren’t two o2 sensors deleted with a tune and the other two are functioning? I know many run catless.

 

Finding a tuner to turn off the CEL these days...

 

Saving up for a supercharger… thanks @reywcms

 

Yea HP tuners can still turn off the rear 02 sensors.
im tuned with d3 and have their pro tuning software.
due to EPA, a lot of tuners, tuning programs, even muffler and exhaust shops refuse to work on your vehicle unless it has cats. at least thats how it is in my area.

 

But mine! :-D

 

^BUY?

lol

It is an awesome deal, wish it had been available when I was doing mine.

 

As a trend it seems like most will run in to issues running aftermarket cats. Aside from defoulers and minicats it would be nice to know how to prevent triggering codes; in some jurisdictions these solutions would fail a visual inspection.

 

So what is the consensus on the "best" interchiller set up?

It is intended to replace the heat exchanger but if your A/C system fails you have no IAT cooling. There is a configuration where you can keep the heat exchanger just bypass it under A/C cooling. I would imagine this set up would require toggling over occasionally to keep the coolant from sitting in the exchanger too long.

What is the thought on tuning with one installed?

Seems like you can keep you tune as is or squeeze out a bit of timing. Roughly speaking every 10 degrees = ~ 1.11% HP. Modest swing in temps I've seen demonstrated is going from 90F to 50F in split mode and 90F to 20F in drag mode. So 4.44% to 7.77% swing in HP over the A2W intercooler.

Biggest drawback of the system seems to be compressor failure, leaks, and/or clutch.

Thoughts on other concerns or benefits?

Edit: Missing pro/con of a reservoir

 

I don’t know anything about them, but I can say that the “drag mode” sounds like a recipe for liquid refrigerant slugging back and destroying the compressor over time. If it chills the water so much that there is little heat exchange between the coolant and the refrigerant, then the refrigerant coming back wont be boiled off to a vapor like it should be before entering the compressor suction side. (Its likely not a vapor if the liquid it is cooling is getting as low as 20 degrees.) Just a word of caution of using that mode often I suppose, assuming standard refrigeration cycle rules apply.

 

Thanks for this insight. This probably explains why the compressors need to be replaced more often with these systems.

 

I know my rear sensor are functioning. A guy welded to my new exhaust when I had to modify it and shorted one. I’m in Texas and HP tuned by Prospeed. Shops here do what you ask.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/hzkjhGkA-Ho?feature=share


finally back on the road. Throwing a few fuel codes and 1201 which I’m sure is related due to the big injectors etc. I can confirm even normal driving the mid range is wildly different than the maggy.

The sounds this makes is totally different as well. Hopefully get tuned soon so we can see what it’s really like. Need to work on sealing the Prospeed box and some other detail stuff.

 

Update over night now after sitting for a few hours has a long 2-3 second start. Truck drives normal and AFRs seem correct. Guessing the fuel pressure is slowly going down. Sounds like the TI450 model 274 does have a check valve so this means there is a leak somewhere. I’m now realizing I used a 3/8 nylon hose on the 3/8 fuel pump barbs but then the other end is a 5/16 OEM barb which I tightened down alot. I would imagine the correct thing to do is have the 3/8 nylon go to a 3/8 to 5/16 adapter (two sided barb) then a 5/16 hose going to the OEM 5/16 barb. This may explain why others have a similar issue if using dissimilar hose sizes.

 

Not sure about "best", but KillerChiller is no longer answering phone or emails and owes me $1000 for never shipping my order...I purchased from fiinterchillers.com last week and received the order 2 days later.

The system isn't really that complicated from the documentation they sent, and if plumbed correctly and charged correctly it shouldn't cause any issues other than another evaporator adding load.

With their universal kit, you are adding an evaporator and dryer to the system in a separate loop. The main evaporator in the cabin is favored as the path of least resistance, but if you're runs are short, you are only adding 3-4 feet of line to the system. With the fittings and clamps that are included, it will be leak-free if installed correctly (they have a clamp jig to make sure you get it right, and have a youtube video on it).

There is no-back feeding from the additional evaporator or pressure issues introduced because of it, it is merely a T on the liquid side, and another T on the suction side essentially creating two loops. The liquid side also includes a switch-activated solenoid to cut off the cabin loop, so you can direct 100% to the SC coolant. The AC system still functions as normal going through the interchiller evaporator and back through the compressor on the suction side.

I suppose you could rig up a solution with ball valves to switch between the heat exchanger and interchiller instead of having to swap parts if needed. fiinterchillers.com mentions they have a solution for this and you can contact them.

As far as tuning goes, you can enjoy the system as-is and with the cooler temps timing won't get pulled, or have it tuned to have more timing added. fiinterchillers.com also includes a PDF with example tuning for IAT spark advance and IAT tables.

Recommended modifications:
-remove SC heat exchanger (only acts to heat up coolant after interchiller introduced)
-upgrade to a larger reservoir (1.3-2.5gallon), placed near front or out of engine bay so it stays cool (needed as a reserve, WOT cuts AC off, stand-still traffic idling)
-recommend larger SC coolant pump
-recommend electric fan (cools AC condenser down faster)

Of course, I haven't installed it yet, so not sure about the longevity or what to expect. I am 2-3 weeks out from getting the larger reservoir, so I won't get it installed until after that arrives. Currently, I'm getting 24-25 degrees above ambient when moving, up to 50+ above when idling in line at my kid's summer camp.

 

Thank you for explaining how the system works in better detail.

Yes Killer Chiller the brand is out of the question for me. I should have been clearer. By interchiller I meant the brand Forced Induction Interchiller. By set up I meant configuration; e.g. standard, drag, eliminating the heat exchanger vs bypassing the exchanger but keeping it incase of Interchiller failure.

Your explanation answers a lot of the concerns I have about the product.

 

This thread makes me want to install the frozenboost heat exchanger in series with my stock Harrop one and see what that does as opposed to an inter chiller. Sure, it won’t ever be below ambient but it could get it a whole lot closer. Could compare the post intercooler IATs before and after. https://www.tundras.com/threads/intercooler.43593/

 

Wonder the effects coolant and trans temps

 

Not sure, but the frozenboost cooler is a lot smaller in height but is deeper so it won’t block the airflow through the other exchangers too much. I will say I can see a ton of light looking through all 3 of my current heat exchangers if I put a flashlight up to the radiator and look in so as it is. I read these kind of automotive heat exchangers only need airflow speed of 7mph to achieve maximum heat exchange as well.

 

I wish! I’m in the middle of building a deck, retaining wall and adding a hot tub. I have to save for a bit. But it’s going to happen.

 

I'll say it again, I think it's a bad idea to use that black plastic corrugated shit on the high pressure side. I find it hard to believe that will hold a seal under pressure considering how stiff it is, and normal rubber fuel line is better.

 

Did you ever get an actual dragy time with the Magnuson? Or are you going to give us anecdotal evidence

 

Haha yeah starting to think this. I confirmed today that Walbro 450 model 274 do have check valves. So very much points to the feeder hose. I’m gonna try a 5/16 hose replacement for the 3/8 and if that doesn’t work switch to rubber style. Will be a professional tank dropper when this is done lol. Also interesting reading on amp usage for walbro models where the ones without valves produce 20-25% more flow but at the same amps as the 450/274 model at around 17amps max. I was also surprised that my 2021 fuel pump fuse was 25 stock whereas I think prior models may be 15, wondering if anything changed (possible the flex fuel trucks were 25amps originally and Toyota switched to all 25 in later years?).

 

I dropped the tank a few times testing 4 different pumps and always used submersible rubber hose without fail. It just seems to hold up. I stopped cutting up the canister as I never liked how it would act under 1/4 tank. Glad to see tuning available after a long hiatus. You guys are inspiring!
Mike

 

All this HP & boost talk...let's separate the wheat from the chaff

 

Have we seen any Whipple dragys on here yet? I saw one on FB but the truck had a 6” lift on 35s, 2 pulley sizes down, full exhaust. 6.54s at 3k ft elevation.