Valve cover gaskets for on '06DC

'06 4.7L DC 2WD.

The parts numbers show exact fit for my tundra when searching Toyota site.

This is just one side. 11214-50011 or 11214-0f010

Maybe they are the same part???

Thx

 

All the info you need is in this single reply: https://www.tundras.com/threads/valve-covers-fix-or-leave.105385/#post-2712883

 

Thx Shifty. Good info.

Its just odd that both valve cover gaskets would show as an exact fit. Don't want to order the wrong parts.

 

Right, there were a couple of versions with some year overlap. You'll want the newer version, using the newer part number format.

I found the same thing when I came up with that list, and thought it was clear based on the year breakdown in the parts list. Maybe you missed this, I listed it out based on year compatibility, going by what Toyota's fitment checker spits out:

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Gotcha. Makes sense.
Thanks

 

'06 4.7L DC 2WD

Below is what I ordered with @shifty` advice, everything worked out perfect
Order Contents:
P/N Quantity Price Each Description

9008010330 18 $ 1.27 BOLT(FOR CYLINDER HEAD COVER)
112140F010 1 $ 20.47 Engine Valve Cover Gasket
112130F010 1 $ 20.47 Engine Valve Cover Gasket
0029500103 1 $ 14.65 Toyota Formed-in-Place Gaskets-Oil Pan
1119350010 8 $ 3.06 GASKET SPARK PLUG TUBE; SPARK PLUG TUBE, LEFT.

 

Thx guys. Just got both sides off.

Not sure the bolts need replacing. I thought there was like a gasket washer I them, but these do not.

The spark plug tube gasket listed, is that what gets pressed inside the valve cover, or is that the rubber ring between cover and ignition harness.

 

There's supposed to be. Someone must've been in there before and made the executive decision, "Toyota doesn't know what the fuck they're doing, this isn't necessary!" and taken them out. That's what someone did on mine. Then proceeded to not bother cleaning old FIPG out, which led to it leaking about 10k miles after I bought it, by then it had 75k(ish) miles on it. Some people are ignorant, I get it.

See this reply, which is linked in that 1st link I gave you where I said "this has everything you need": https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1294#post-2692231

I wasn't kidding when I said it literally has everything you need - links to process, part numbers, everything ... But yeah, it's the gasket ring the coil pack passes through. Mine were pretty well toasted after 75k miles.

You leave out whatever you don't want to, cross your fingers, and hope you won't need to go back in later and fix. Just don't skip the FIPG tasks you need to do with this job.

 

we like pics. Show us your trucks naughty bits while they're exposed.

 

I’ve owned this truck since new and it’s never been in the shop. Maybe it was built on a Friday.
Here are the valve cover bolts, without gasket washers, and L and R valve covers.
It appears that the drivers side was getting a lot warmer. The gasket is harder and the spark plug tube gaskets are harder too. They almost look a different color…..

 

We think the divers side gets dirtier because of the pcv, or whatevs. All the cam lobes pretty?

 

Yea. Both sides look clean.

 

Weird on the washers! Maybe a Friday or Monday indeed. Mine had none also, but had clear signs someone else had them off before, in the form of 2 different FIPG colors, one white, one black. I replaced with the part listed in my other post that came with an embedded washer.

And driver's side head is always more cooked, and the cooking on the head always seems to gradually get worse as you look from the 1 cylinder back to the 7 cylinder. We've talked about this here or there, best assumption is, more steam manages to build up on the side with the oil fill, and condenses on the head as it cools.

On the upside, the covers look great. Nothing cooked onto yours like there was on mine. Must not see a lot of short-trip driving, or saw pretty religious oil change intervals.

 

Here are two of the spark tube seals. One from each side. They actually look different in color.

Ordering plugs too. Thinking 90080-91180….. do you all use anti-seize.

 

Diff't color doesn't surprise me. You should see what my heads look like, two very different colors

Plugs - never anti-seize, it's a recipe for over-torquing. Save money, buy what Toyota recommended in the Owner's Manual, which for our trucks (2006 4.7L) is as follows, your local auto parts store should sell, and Auto Zone and Advance usually have 15%-25% off coupons. DO NOT buy on scAmazon or fleaBay, you'll get counterfeits.

If you need online coupons (order online, pick up in store) for your local store and don't know how to shake a coupon down, let me know. I'll fish something out for you, just let me know what stores are nearby. I can't help with NAPA, and O'reillys rarely has coupons available in my experience.

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exact same thing: previous owner likely did gasket job themselves because there were two different rtv colors in there ( and one of them at least for sure was from before due to the other color on top). But they did reuse the old grommets… likely they cheaper out on the gasket pack as well and got one without.

 

where did you order everything from?

 

Got any 25% coupons from advanced or auto zone?

 

20% off. Use coupon 2023MAY but verify the coupon and get back to me.

 

Not sure if any of these will work but here they are anyways.

 

Bought online from - West Coast Toyota of Long Beach

 

Thanks all. Got the parts today at local Toyota dealer for %25 discount....
What are torque settings for:
Valve cover bolts and spark plugs...
Not sure if spark plug cap bolt gets torqued or not....

 

Coil pack bolt probably has a torque spec on it, I just tighted till snug + quarter turn. That's one I've always gone by "feel" on every car I own, factory spec be damned.

For the other torque question, it's in the other thread I linked but check the 3rd sentence here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/valve-cover-bolt-torque.120114/#post-3082048

That info gets reposted a lot.

 

Shifty,
Thanks for all the good advice. Part fit was perfect.
Hopefully oil leak is fixed….

Now on to the timing belt……
Any advice, tips, good tutorials…..

Duk

 

Here's my favorite videos: https://www.tundras.com/threads/timing-belt-on-05-tundra-4-7-2uz-fe.113004/#post-2913731

@Baller also dropped some of his favorites here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/timing-belt-master-thread-sticky.107240/

 

Thanks.

Toyota wanted $2100 for the job.
I’ve been thinking about it, thought if it was like 1k I’d let them have it. I was wrong

 

They got the nickname "Stealership" for a reason. They're charging for OEM parts and concatenating labor hours which adds up fast. You may want to quote at another one if it's an option.

I dunno whereabouts you are, but there are a few Toyo/Lex specialty shops around me, LexTechs and ToyoTechs. From what I gather, they typically come in at least 20-30% cheaper than the dealership while doing the extra "while we're in there" things. It may be worth hunting to see if you have similar. Pricing for the same in my area is in the $1,200 - $1,400 range including the "while we're in there" things.

 

Would you all recommend the

$185 TKT-021 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - Compatible with Select Lexus GS400, GS430, GX470, LS400, LS430, LX470, SC400, SC430 Toyota 4Runner, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Tundra

TKT-021 kit. Rock auto or Summit maybe

 

There's a dollar difference between the two, but RockAuto has a 5% coupon, I can happily share if you need it.

I can't find it cheaper from any reputable shops. scAmazon, fleaBay and WallyMart keep returning, and they allow non-verified part sales, which enables counterfeiters.

The Aisin part number ending in "-021" is the one you want. The one ending in "-001" which is about $20 cheaper doesn't contain a new tensioner.

 

Back to timing. Watched plenty of videos. Seems to be some discrepancy.
Should the cam indicator be set to the “I” or to the “T” before release belt pressure and removing belt.
I’m assuming if you do it wrong the belt will jump a bit…..
2006 4.7l

THX