NOOB Suspension Question - what are these?

I crawled under the front of my 2005 Tundra last night. I'm planning to replace all the control arms, ball joints, shock assemblies, etc....basically the entire front end.

Anyway, I saw these spacers that I didn't notice when I looked the truck over before I bought it (I think they were covered in mud from the guy's long driveway).



Are these spacers just a leveling kit? Looks like about an inch or two thick.

I like the way the truck sits, so I'll probably reuse these if they aren't harming anything.
The hardware is pretty rusted, can any one identify what/where these are from so I could maybe get new hardware for what I start swapping components?

Thanks for your help.

 

Please tell me you bought this truck for the price of a mcnugget meal.

Generally you want to avoid spacers on these trucks. And that amount of rust...

You will never, ever, be able to easily replace anything on this truck. Minnesota loctite.

I'm sorry. That's the way it is.

 

If you start dousing it with pb blaster daily, you might have a chance to replace some of that.

You might consider driving it just how it is, for what it's worth. You're opening pandoras box if you start disassembling that.

 

It's called iron oxide...

 

Ooof. If that's what the calipers look like, I'd hate to see the frame. Just the bucket for the strut that has the spacer is toast. And you'll want all new hardware to go with your suspension. Make sure you use OEM LBJs. And that rotor looks pretty toasty also.

You may want to give us some pics of the frame to look over before you proceed with a front rebuild. You may be putting lipstick on a matchstick frame and that wouldn't make sense. Unless this has had the frame replaced recently, I can't imagine it's safe to drive. (more info)

 

You sir, are entering a world of pain. And yes, that’s a spacer on top of the strut. That’s a shield on the lower ball joint, not a spacer. That coilover shock is likely factory and toast, wouldnt keep the spacer if replacing the shock. Would definitely do a deeper dive to assess the frame rust before proceeding. And hopefully you purchased this truck for the price of a happy meal, although it’s probably gonna leave you sad.

 

@Tundra2 ... Yes I got it cheap. The frame was replaced under warranty and is in decent shape... these front end components are the worst of it...just plain nasty!

@Mr Badwrench the blaster soak downs have already started. I'm going to try to leave most of this alone for the time being, but I will have to change the pads and rotors to get it to pass PA state inspection in the next few weeks.

 

That's refreshing to hear, and explains why the peripheral bits of frame don't look horrendous, but I'd also urge you to do some rust remediation while you're in there, because looking at the strut tower, 100% rust has already started creeping deep into it. You'll probably want to be treating it, yearly, inside the rails and out. The upper control arms aren't looking so hot either.

If it were me, I'd be replacing everything. Upper and lower control arms & balljoints (use OEM on lowers), new struts (may as well go 5100 with a lifted spring then kill the spacers, spring to choose will vary depending on your cab type), new tie rods, new swaybar end links.

 

@shifty` I've got new calipers coming for my pending brake job as well.

 

Isn’t the strut mount brace part of the frame?

 

Yep....that's the plan....pull it all out...address the rust that I can, then put new back in.

Then later this summer I'll have it oiled/fluid filmed by a local company that specializing in rust remediation for PA winters!

 

Yup. And you see how bad it already looks. Previous owner I guess didn't learn their lesson about cleaning and treating the frame after they had it replaced, because it looks like ass again already

 

And when was the frame replaced? Could have been many years ago and the frame is already rotting away

 

Where are you folks finding replacement hardware?
I can get the LBJ mounting bolts from the dealer, but I don't see any other hardware available from the dealer or Rock Auto for the LCA, UCA, Strut Assem, etc.

 

Never buy direct from the parts counter if you have to, they'll fleece you at MSRP most of the time, when you can get it significantly cheaper buying from Toyota's Parts site instead, for pickup at your local parts counter. And that link will help lead you to finding the parts for your truck, too.

 

These two links and the associated diagrams may help.

https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2...FRONT-SPRING--SHOCK-ABSORBER/841420-4803.html



https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2...T-AXLE-ARM--STEERING-KNUCKLE/841420-4802.html

 

@shifty` @des2mtn that is where I was looking (parts.toyota.com). If you look at the bolts for the LCA part number: 90080-11275 the toyota site doesn't even list them.

I guess I'll have to do a general google search for all those part numbers and see where I can find them.

 

Search that part number on the Toyota website if it's not on that page. Here's the part number you referenced.

https://parts.toyota.com/p/69370633/90080-11275.html

I'd recommend getting the alignment cams and everything for the lower control arm too.

 

I see....looks like not all of the links on the diagrams work....I'll just have to search the hardware of the toyota site manually.
Thanks folks!

 

Any time you run into this, remove the hyphen.

Toyota changed their part numbering recently to remove hyphens, and sometimes you can't lookup parts if the dash is included. See: https://parts.toyota.com/p/69370633/9008011275.html

 

But yeah, sometimes the little boxes don't link up correctly. Best bet is to manually reference the number in the diagram to the parts list, and for anything with a full part number, use it w/o the hyphens.

 

how have folks been changing out the hub/bearing components on the steering knuckles?
I don't have access to a shop press (unless I buy one from Harbor Freight). Is it too much to handle with a screw type bearing installer/remover (the one I have states that it's for front wheel drive vehicles....so maybe this one is too small to fit these bearings)?

I haven't asked the shop that does my inspections...maybe the younger guy there would do it for a few extra bucks.

Your thoughts?

 

I was under the impression you needed a 25 ton press for those

 

The front wheel wheel bearings call for at least a 20 ton press. The procedure is multi-stepped requiring several press dies to accomplish. I’ve got 2 OEM Koyo bearings sitting on my shop bench ready to go. Lack the 20 ton currently. Lack the time as well. So far down the list….

 

MechEng13...."I'm going to fix my own truck"

Everyone on this forum....." The hell you will. First let me drop this knowledge bomb for you...."

hahaha...seriously though, I appreciate the help folks

20ton I can handle (with a $250 Harbor Freight Press).....25ton presses get expensive quickly.

 

HF has a 50 ton that isn’t too bad either. Also a coupon will make that 20Ton less than $200 if you time it right.

 

I went over to my local dealer and they gave me close to w/s pricing. Still found it cheaper online. Gear assembly is back order so they price a reman.

 

I'd find a shop to do the bearings for you. It's a pain with the way our spindles are shaped. That or get a second set of hands with your fancy new press. For the hubs, durago has a set on RA. They're in my truck now.

 

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