Power Running Boards

Response from Go Rhino - "Go under the carpet through the back of the center console. You can use a wire hanger to feed it". Mine arrives on Monday, so I probably won't install until the weekend but that seems pretty straight forward.

 

Hmmm, maybe they mean around and under the back bottom edge of the console. That might be doable. Pop off the driver's sill plates and run a coat hanger in from the outside to that area. Then pull the wires through. But IDK. Still, getting to that area with the seats in place might be difficult. Not that removing the seats is all that difficult. Just need to take care with electrical and air bag connectors. Please let us know how this turns out.

 

Perhaps taking the rear of the console apart to run wire would help? Look at tear down pics here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-charging-and-connectivity-for-passengers.104747/#post-2779061


Here is the YT video: https://youtu.be/fQWH4_5PbeE

 

I am going to wait for foobini to show us the way... before I decide to wait for the Amps or to go ahead with these. No rush, in any case.

But that rear part of the console does seem to come apart easily enough.

 

Do the power running boards operate by opening/closing the rear doors or just the front?

 

I can only speak for the OEM boards, and "Yes" you can open just a back door and they will deploy.

 

The GoRhinos employ magnetic sensors on every door, so yes, opening the rears will also deploy the boards.

 

I installed the Smittybilt yesterday they are dual motor and solid enough at least for me. I did the install differently since I have the Hybrid. Installed the control on the driver side and reverse the harness(front to back) since the battery in on this side, went under the drivers seat easily plug there. On/off bottom place it where the oem one is supposed to be and just drill the blank and glue it on top way cleaner look than the way they suggested. Passenger wire routed it together with the battery cables and then send it across under the rear seat. Located the magnets a bit different than suggested since they literally wanted the magnet on top the stickers on the driver door column. Play with the magnets with tape before committing to the location.
I printed the gorhino instructions since they have more detailed instructions. But honestly is the same manual just with some extra pages with photos. I can add photos if anyone is interested tomorrow.

 

Yes very interested! Please and thank you!!

 

Yes please- photos would help a ton. I also have a hybrid and planning on these steps or the wait for the amp steps since that all I've have on my previous trucks

 

Here are some photos. Light didn’t help for under the truck and it was cold so didn’t spent much time under. I can do more for under tomorrow if need.
or if anyone have ? Let me know

 

Wow, that’s a full retro fit

 

So, it looks like you ran the wires that had to cross from one side to the other UNDER the truck above the driveshaft and exhaust? No issues with clearance or heat? Doing similar with the Rhinos would make the job a little easier and not require mucking about so much in the interior.

 

Yes and no.
The harness that came with my had a heat insulation for the motor wire that was to make it across. But to be safe I removed the 2 front screws for the heat shield and runt it behind the shield and above the side Pilar. Way out of the heat and driveshaft then above the gas tank. the only wire I run across inside was for the passenger doors magnets. If I’m not mistaken your kit would be run the same way(I print it to get more references)
Doing it this way saves so much time. Since everything at least for the hybrid will stay in 1 side and just 1 wire needs to make it across in the inside. I can make a video from under tomorrow to show better how I did the wires, hard to see with photos.

 

The Rhino kit has both motor power harnesses coming from the front on each side so the only ones that need to cross over to the driver's side are the driver's door sense wires and master switch wires. The official instructions take those across through the interior. Which could be a PITA.

 

I was scratching head on how bring wires inside without having to take much things apart and making a clean install. The way that I did it was so much easier. At least imo

 

Ever get around to this job? I am curious as to how it turned out and if you have any "pro-tips" learned from the experience.

 

I installed the running boards on Sunday and I am 98% done. I just need to mount the switch in the dash but I need hide one of the cords a little better under the carpet so that it doesn't show under the drivers seat.

The instructions are confusing in a few sections and are one of those jobs that would take half the time if you did it again. I wasted time at a couple different points just trying to translate what they are saying and ultimately found the pictures more helpful. Overall it took about 5 hours to get them installed compared to the 2-3 that they say in the instructions.

There are 2 cords that need to route from the passenger side driver module to the drivers side. One of them is for the driver side motors and that one routes under the truck similar to what Tikisia has in his pictures and is straight forward. The other one contains the door trigger and plug for the switch. I was able to just push them under the rear of center console by hand without taking anything apart. The trick here is that you need to push them as far as you can towards the front of the truck and to the pull to the drivers side. There is ample cable for the door trigger but if you want to mount the switch to the left of the wheel then you need every inch you can get of the cable.

 

So those wires you pulled under the rear of the console that need to go towards the front of the truck, did they go behind the driver's seat to the sill and then up? Or did you feed them under the console to the front and then over to the driver door? I am still having a hard time visualizing how to get these wires over there without removing the drivers seat.

Yup, almost every job we do, if you had it to do again it would take half the time. That just the way this stuff is. :-/

 

Under the center console and then under the driver seat over to the sill. I did not remove any seats or take apart the center console. You just need to push the seats as far forward as they go to be able to easily access the split in the carpet.

 

OK, that makes perfect sense and should make the job pretty easy. As for that somewhat short wire, it's easy enough to solder on an extension if necessary. I guess I am going to have to go ahead and get these. Tired of waiting for Amp. And I might be having knee surgery in a month or so and that's when I'll need these for sure.

 

Well, I went ahead and ordered the GoRhinos. Tired of waiting for Amp and all you get from them is that "this project is on the books", blah, blah, blah. The Rhinos are on backorder but Foobini's apparently shipped a couple of days after he got a similar notice. We'll see. If the backorder is extended I may have to reconsider.

 

Go Rhinos are on sale for 20% off for anyone interested.

Just FYI I called 4 Wheel Parts today and they said they haven’t received a set of the E1’s that weren’t already damaged. The guy I talked to recommended waiting for the AMPS.

 

The 20% off on the E1s is only because the MSRP is so bloody high in the first place. I don't believe they will ever be able to get that full price. But who knows? As for damage, any product can suffer shipping damage. If that is the case it is simple to just return the stuff. As for the actual hardware, it seems there are advantages and disadvantages to both the Amps and the Rhinos. But the Rhinos have one huge advantage. They are available. And I just have a fundamental problem dealing with a company like Amp when they won't even give you an estimate as to when their product will come to market. Next week? Next year? Who knows.

 

While I can absolutely understand this, I also really think companies are beholden to their suppliers. And these days, I get the feeling that a ton of suppliers are not giving actual estimates either.

 

Yes, maybe. But even if they can't provide a firm date, they know more than they are letting on and could be more forthcoming about the exact situation and any issues they are facing so we can make some sort of judgement. But all we get is "keep checking back"? LOL. And meanwhile they seem to have plenty of product for Ford, Ram, etc. It doesn't matter that much to me since my decision is already made. But I have to shake my head at this stuff.

 

I can understand that. From a business perspective, I'm sure they don't want to outright say "We won't have these for X months." Then you are forced to choose another product. It's a bummer, but they probably keep more potential business by keeping us slightly in the dark.

(I dont even have my truck yet)

 

Just a quick update... I ordered the Rhino E1s about a month ago and they are still backordered. So, with no projected availability date and having places to go and things to do, I am canceling that order. Can't have that coming available and shipping when I can't plan to be here to receive it. Amp also still not listing their boards for our trucks yet either. Sheesh...

 

I bought the TRD AL powder coated regular boards to tide me over until/if/when the AMP boards become available. Figured I can sell them down the road once the AMPS are proven. We'll see, right??

 

Its super easy on this truck actually. I'm a newb at this stuff and other vehicles are a nightmare but on this truck all the trim pieces just pull off actually. Theres a video on youtube - find it and watch - super easy and takes 5 minutes.