2005 Tundra Double Cab Driveshaft ...

Hi Tundras.com Nation -
First time caller, long time listener.

I have a 2005 tundra double cab with 240,000 miles, and she's just getting broken in.
I started noticing a vibration and upon doing some research found that it's the center support bearing.

It's less expensive for me to replace the entire drive shaft assembly with you joints and center support bearing, rather than bring it to a shop that will replace the 3U joints and center support bearing, or a shop that will replace the entire driveshaft.

In my research I am running into a consistency issue with the length of the driveshaft. I've had several online vendors assure me it will fit and after finally ordering one I found it short by about 5 1/2 to 6 inches.

I could order one from a Toyota dealership but that would cost me more than a local shop to install the driveshaft that they would order.

Looking for a good and reliable source for driveshafts that's not at the top end of the price range, and also any information on how to determine which driveshafts out there are going to fit.
(I took a measuring tape to mine and it is 88 inches from the back flange to the front U-joint where the yoke attaches).

Thanks in advance!
Ron

 

Oh jeez. Here we go again

Please tell us how and why you believe it's the center support bearing. I only ask because, like, 75% of the time when someone posts on here thinking that's he problem, it ends up being one of the following:

• Rear brakes aren't adjusted properly (stupidly, this is often the cause and applying/releasing the e-brake 3-4 times fixes, assuming rear brakes aren't seized from road salt/corrosion)
• Tire cupping (which is hard to prove, but this is another common one "vibration suddenly went away after new tires! try deflating a bit)
• Wheels out of balance
• 2WD: Truck is affected by the open TSB related to cracked trans crossmember, missing bolts under trans crossmember
• 4WD: Owner is not following schedule to grease the driveline
• Driveshaft is out of balance, or wasn't reinstalled correctly
• Center support bearing was replaced by previous owner w/wrong model
• Truck is lifted, and driveline angles didn't receive compensation

Before you drop the money on it, please tell us which of the above items you've ruled out as possible causes.

Rarely is it the U-joints.
Rarely is it the center support bearing.

But as a "long time listener", I guess you know this already and I'm preaching to the choir

PS - I see there's no designation in your truck info saying which engine you have, and if you're 2WD/4WD. That's helpful for everyone here to know when helping.

 

The 2WD and 4WD models use different drive shafts...perhaps the source of your confusion?

I have an 04 AC 4WD. I had an annoying vibration. I balanced the tires. I replaced the tires. I replaced the carrier bearing. I replaced the u-joints, and had the entire shaft re-balanced (it wasn't out, BTW)...all to no avail. Finally, I took it to my local trusted mechanic who identified the problem as a bad front hub bearing.

If you're hell bent to go down the driveline path, my first recommendation is to find a drive shaft shop, and have them check the balance. The will also advise you about the u-joints and center bearing.

 

I love the way this is worded, fits perfectly.

 

Hey W666 - I never thought about having the drive shaft checked for balance. I'm not hellbent on anything or stuck on a single idea; I just want to get my truck running right, and the vibration doesn't feel right.

Shifty - You're right and I didn't include other details ('05 4.7L, 2WD).
I have seen these posts pop up, and I comb as best as I can for the information that will have me saying "yup, that's me!"
Of your list:

Rear brakes were done quite a while back and the vibration is a new issue.
Can't speak to tire cupping, but surfaces seem fine, and had tires balanced 3 weeks ago.
I don't know anything about the TSB, but need to research this.
Truck has never been lifted or otherwise modified.

It is the original drive shaft, Center Support bearing, and all associated U joints. Also, it has 240,000 miles on it.
They are mostly Florida miles, with a few trips up and down the eastern seaboard.

Pretty ordinary Tundra Double Cab that has served me well since I drove her off the lot with 3 miles on the odo.

 

240k is nothing. Mileage on these trucks isn't like on other trucks. Some guys are in the 300k-400k and still on the original driveline, no issues. I'd replace U-joints before anything, since the OEM didn't have zerks, and I'd expect that to be responsible before anything, but before you do, let's exhaust the free stuff, eh?

For shits and giggles, go out, set and release the parking brake FIRMLY half a dozen times. A lot of people never set theirs, and it's a quick and dirty way to get your rear brakes adjusted. You'd be shocked at the number of vibrations and other issues improperly adjusted rear brakes cause. So many, there's an entire thread dedicated to nothing but properly adjusting the rear brakes thanks to member @Aerindel

It contains info on the TSB, but I highly recommend you read the TSB, since your truck is in the TSB window. For the later-year 2WD trucks, the tranny crossmember can develop hairline cracks from the bolt holes over time, and the mount compresses over time, the bolts loosen & fall out. Typical symptoms are clunks when turning, stopping, going, but it could lend to vibration also. Here's a specific TSB for the 2WD tranny mount problem, it calls for replacing the crossmember, which many think is overkill unless clearly cracked (examples of cracking here). If not cracked, retightening with a non-permanent thread sealer has worked. You'll want to check all 4 bolts un the under side of the tranny crossmember.

@w666 is 110% correct. If you really, legitimately think it's something in the driveline itself, take the truck to a dedicated and trusted driveshaft shop. They'll tell you promptly if that's what it is.

I'm gonna leave you with this sticky thread since it has a ton of new-owner info which you may find useful or interesting: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

Hey Shifty -
I'm all about exhausting the free stuff. Will definitely start with the parking brake, and will keep you posted.
As for the TSB, I never knew anything about it until today, when you brought to light for me.
If I'd known about it in '09 I might have gotten Toyota to address it themselves.

I'm embarrassed I never thought about going to a drive shaft shop to have the shaft checked for balancing issues.
I assumed it would remain balanced throughout its life, and then recall the lead clip weights used to balance the rims on my old '72 Mach I that would pop or fly off sometimes.

Thanks also for the links, especially for the sticky thread at bottom of your last post; that one is chock full of info.

 

Shifty (or anyone),

Where exactly in my profile do I post the pertinent details about my Tundra (year, engine, trim, etc)?
Looks like 'Profile Posts' is the only place I can post info.

Thanks!

 

Click on "You" in the top-right corner and choose Personal Details, or just click here: https://www.tundras.com/account/personal-details

Then update the "Vehicle One-Line Info" (or whatever) blank. Currently it says "'05 Tundra Double Cab Lmtd", consider adding "V8 2WD" at the end of that. Pretty much covers everything but mileage, but it doesn't stay very stationary for most of us!

 

Don't know where in FL you are. Try that google thing. I see driveshaft shops in Lakeland, Tampa, Orlando, Miami, and no doubt many other spots.

 

Hey @shifty` - thanks for the link. @w666 - found a drive shaft shop less than 10 miles away. I'll keep ya'll posted.

 

You may want to get 2 opinions on it also, since not everyone is intimately familiar with the drivelines on these trucks and may tell you shit's wrong when it's normal.

Like, just know, some play in the bearing is normal. I have about 1/4" - 1/2" play in mine. And this guy had similar in his, it's perfectly normal, see this video: https://www.tundras.com/threads/drive-shaft-center-coupling-play.118509/#post-3043926

In that case, rear drums weren't adjusted properly. But he was getting more of a clunk at stop/accelerate than vibrations.

 

Humbling moment: I believe I am way more unqualified than qualified to make mechanical assessments. The more I think I know the more I discover I really don't.

@shifty` - I gave the parking brake trick a whirl and when I went up the road out of my neighborhood I noticed the vibration right around 35 or 40 miles an hour and then...
Took my foot off the throttle and the vibration seems to have disappeared.

Checked the movement with the center bearing, and there is very little play, maybe a 1/4 inch.

I'm going to take a grease gun to the Zirk fittings but clearly there's a host of options I have not considered or discovered (also time to read the sticky thread from start to finish, as I only scanned it the first time).

@w666 - Also turns out that several shops in the area that did driveshaft balancing apparently never survived the past few years and have closed permanently. Many are resorting to just shipping items online.

I'll keep ya'll posted.

 

Likely not the driveline, I'd think. The fact it's present while under load, but not when you let off the gas ... that's a symptom to focus in on, I think.

Check out the transmission crossmember - the four bolts hidden underneath the crossmember, centered under the mount. Should be 4 of them. I doubt it's the source of the vibration. But it's something else to check for your specific year and 2WD. I know I mentioned earlier, just reiterating.

Don't hesitate to swing back through with questions when they inevitably come up.

 

@shifty` Thank you. I do recall the TSB mentioned earlier, so checking the transmission crossmember is on my radar for tomorrow.

Not sure how well I can figure out whether motor mounts are an issue (I recall with the Mach one of mine broke and the entire engine would move with the rev. It was easy enough to replace them with a jack lifting the engine just enough, but this is new stuff for me with the Tundra).

Will definitely keep you posted.
Thanks again.

 

I mean, the vibration at 30-40 that subsides when you let off the pedal symptom sounds really familiar to me, I had it in our 2012 Highlander (but at 70) and it was due to an issue with the final drive gear. Would kick in around 70-80mph, vibration and WUB WUB WUB, and immediately stopped when you let off the gas.

We don't see a lot of guys on here needing to replace the engine mounts, but I agree, if it were another brand, I'd probably wonder about those too.

Maybe someone else can chip in some other ideas for you to check. My brain is warped today from a rough day at work.

 

You sure about that I just greased my driveshaft last night

 

I’ll add, Carrier Bearing should not be a problem when drive at a constant. You’ll know when it’s bad when the truck up or down shifts or when putting it in gear it will clunk. A brand new one is actually pretty loose, you can move it all over the place by hand.

I was thinking tires/ balance. U Joints would start squeaking or making a funny sound before going out.

 

You've got zerks on your original OEM U-joints?

Or those gd vibrations when accelerating or decelerating. so aggravating.

 

So...Update from the cheap seats...

I've done more research and then crawled under my truck and sure enough, I still cannot find a single grease Zerk fitting anywhere between the differential and the transmission spine. I literally used my hands and fingers and worked all the way up to the spline and there is nothing. I'm intimately familiar with these fittings from when I had my Mach I but I can't find a damn single one anywhere on the drive shaft or U joints.

What I DID discover however was both an alarming and aha moment. I looked through the bolt access holes on the transmission crossmember and three of the four bolts are missing completely.
I took the single remaining bolt out to inspect it and I noticed there was no lock washer and wondered if installing four bolts with lockwashers would guarantee this would not happen again?

At least I may have a solid idea as to where the vibration unde rload is coming from.

If y'all have any insights as to whether or not using lockwashers with the bolts does not compromise the bolt's ability to anchor the transmission to the crossmember, I certainly welcome them.

 

@shifty`

Thanks for pointing out that I should check the mounting bolts on the transmission.
I might just pick up four, but still need to figure out if I can use a lock washer or if that is either overkill, uncalled for, or will somehow compromise the transmission mounting to the crossmember.

 

Yup, think I mentioned it above: 2WD has no zerks from the factory. Fun stuff, right?

Right, I warned about that too, reply # 6, 3rd text chunk of my mini-series novella.

Replace with OEM bolt, use a simple non-permanent threadlock like Permatex Blue, and reinstall. BUT before you do, check your gd crossmember for hairline cracks. Pics of examples are in reply # 6. PArt number for new bolt/washer is 90119-08895 or 9011908895, whichever you prefer.

I mean, I told you what it probably was up there in reply #6

No prob, just trying to help a brother out!

 

@shifty`
I realized that all of this has been a series of "I told you so's" and I'm just thankful that you're there and pretty good-natured about the ribbing that you're giving.

Today was the first chance I had to crawl back under the truck, and thankfully because we're a two car household it sat in the driveway.
But having your advisories and warnings in my head I realized I had time this afternoon and crawled underneath. I checked the crossmember from end to end and all the way across and found nothing in the way of any kind of cracks. I used my fingers and did everything I could to suss one out. My guess is the only way to confirm it would be to get it x-rayed but like I said there's no real evidence to my eyes.

And I appreciate the part number for the bolt and washer, because that's something I'm gonna take care of as soon as I'm done sending this message.

By the way, if it's written well (like yours), a miniseries novella is always worth a repeat read!

 

Thanks for realizing it's all in good fun. Let's be real. I'm that guy in the bar that won't stfu, and says so much, it's probably easy to miss the gem buried in the cow pie.

If I remember right, the problem was two-fold.

One, there was a fibrous shim somewhere between the mount and transmission that compresses/shrinks/disintegrates. Similar shrinkage/compression happens to our valve cover gaskets, and the bolts in both cases will loosen up, then fall out.

Two, the crossmember cracks, clearly, and it's totally possible that's a side effect of #1. Consider yourself lucky, a new crossmember is $$$. A couple of guys have bought replacements on here.

Sounds like #1 probably hit you. And it honestly may or may not be the cause of your prob, but I suspect it's a major player.

Anything is a worth a repeat read with a cold drink in-hand.

 

@shifty` If you were closer, I'd make that happen!

 

I just now saw your user info. Are you in The Swamp ala UF and surrounding area, swamp as in the 'Glades, or a bayou reference?

I was in G'ville for years before the startup I was working for down on Williston Rd got bought up and relocated me to ATL back at the turn of the 2000s.

 

Hey @shifty` -

Definitely south of The Gator Swamp. When I lived in Clermont I told people I lived in the mountains of Central Florida (our house sat 190' above sea level) but now as far as I'm concerned, anywhere south of Lake Okeechobee is Swamp.
Williston! Definitely Familiar with X60.

ATL ain't bad. One of my neighbors just moved up there. More land, More house, less money.
Florida is getting out of control, but that's my 2 1/2 cents.

 

It definitely is. And Clermont ... I worked at the Mission Inn, just up the road for a bit, before starting my current career. Lived not far away. It's all suburbs between The Villages and Clermont now ... Lykes Bros citrus groves are few and far between.

ATL is ATL. I got in at the right time. It's jumping the shark right now! I just heard another 7 major tech brands are opening major sites here... Building won't stop. I'll be happier when I can have more land again, but I enjoy living less than 4 miles from where I work way too much to move somewhere I'd need to commute!

 

@shifty` - It is all suburbs. The massive tracts of orange groves across from Lake Louisa State park is all developed or being developed.
Pretty soon folks will build McMansions in Ocala to commute to Disney! I'm with you - More land would be great! When I worked for the Mouse House I lived in Clermont, nice 30 minute drive through the rolling hills, but the drive was great because of the topography. The Mission Inn is still kicking, last I checked. The Howey House was purchased by an investment group and has been restored to its former glory.

 

@shifty` - I forgot to mention: There is some sort of white thick bushing or something that is stuck inside the trans crossmember. Don't know what it is, or how it got in there, but I'm going to have work on getting it out through a hole that is larger that it is (I suppose I need to take a photo of the damn thing when it is daylight). It is not attached to anything, and moves with the carefree attitude of a a 1960's hippie!