My 2003 AC 4wd 1 Owner (now 2) tundra build and intro forum

Very happy to say I changed to tundra at 18 y/o after totaling my 07 ranger from a pothole. I wanted something nice so I went with Toyota looking at 1g tacos 3g 4runners. But I really wanted the V8 power with less rusting issues and a little bit less expensive. So I finally found a 1 owner 155k mile Tundra in grey with TRD package. Currently working on fixing it has a few minor issues I am going to fix all rock chips I already did a 3 stage undercoating needs exhaust rewelded. I also will be replacing rear bumper as it is rusted inside. The windows have a weird noise when hitting a bump with them down 1/2 way. Interior pics coming soon but it is minted. I plan on rebuilding front end suspension. I want to put 5100s with stock coils to level is that possible? I want 285/75r16. Will also be installing new LBJ and maybe new UCAs from JBA if I have the cash. Just had timing belt and water pump before I bought. Selling bed cap as well for a tonneau cover if anyone has suggestions let me know please.

 

Nice! Frame replaced or is that the undercoating you’re talking about?

 

Nope the previous owner I am sure had it left in a garage and I just treated it by sanding it in surface rust areas undercoated 2x then did oil over the whole thing

 

Good lookin truck. Welcome aboard!

 

Don't hesitate to check out this thread, new owner. And welcome to the forum.

Window rattle while partially open is a known issue. Windows channel seals and the around-the-door-opening seal compress with time and allow the window to rattle. You can also reduce some rattle by replacing the window "squeegee" thingy where the window slides out the door.

Summit Racing is a great place to get another bumper for your truck. It's where I got mine. You need to rust-proof or coat the hell out of the back side it on arrival, before install.

LBJ: Only use OEM. DO NOT use anything but OEM. And don't re-use the old bolts. You don't want to see all the pics of 1st gen Tundras with the front wheels horizontal to the ground because people chose time and time again not to heed this warning. Toyota over-engineered their parts to deal with that unusually high-stress point.

Those high-rise caps are sought after. You should be able to get a good solid $400-500 for it, but YSK it'll only fit another 2000-2006 access cab pickup. Double cab bed is 2" shorter, regular cab is several inches longer.

For tonneau covers, I bought a tri-fold soft from TonnoPro. I didn't love it. I replaced it with a hard tri-fold BakFlip FiberMax, which is similar to the MX4. Highly recommend. Let me find pics of both.

 

Tonneau pics to compare. I prefer the flush-mount BakFlip, it also folds all the way up to the window to give 95% full bed use.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/show-your-tonneau-cover.18411/page-14#post-2777435

Both are about equal on install time, TonnoPro was definitely easier and tool-free, but the BakFlip only took about 5 minutes more.

 

I actually am selling it for 475 + a tonneau cover to a guy and hes coming saturday super excited for that he has the tri fold soft all that matters to me is it works. Do you know how much lift I can comfortably get with stock coils on 5100s with JBA UCAS or should i just go 2885 OME and do a rear AAL

 

Oh crap. I forgot to answer that.

5100 with stock springs you can support up to (I think) up 2 notches from bottom for access cab. You should get up to 2", maybe 2.25" lift may ride like ass. If you go with a lifted spring like those from Dobinsons, OME, Eibach, etc. you must use bottom notch on the 5100.

5100 with 2884 will get you to just about level with no rear lift. 5100 with 2885, your ass will be squatting unless you AAL. More info, and info on UCA selections for our truck, are in the thread I linked.

Oh, and on UCA, a lot of people will recommend SPC also. Know that Eibach's UCA product are 100% SPC arms, but in an Eibach box, and upwards of 40% less.

Glad to see my numbers are right on the grandpa cap.

 

PS - tag to @Elevatorguy and @Erik1989 on the cap pricing. Elevatorguy likes drilling holes into half a grand I guess.

 

Is that a muffler just jammed onto the old exhaust pipe? lol

 

the whole exhaust is trashed lmao its got new muffler new cats old resonator pipes breaking everywhere so I am just going to get all new mounts and pipe and new resonator welded

 

I just was re reading this and I want to run this exact setup I wanted to run 265/75r16 with mr305 methods 2 inch wheel spacers billy 5100s all around and only lift front would I need UCA and wont it hit the coils if cranked higher? also are 2 in wheel spacers too large

 

Welcome from lower Delaware. Where is this pothole that totals vehicles. I need to avoid that sucker

 

If you're intent on running 16s, I'd look carefully at what @bmf4069 is running for his truck. Same cab, same general drivetrain, but I believe smaller tires.

 

Man don't sell that pap cap. I know they're ugly as can be but they're so practical.


I'm running 5100s on stock TRD coils. 3rd notch. Leveled out about perfect. If I had to do it over though I'd say buy something that's preassembled with an aftermarket spring. Compressing those coil springs sucks. If you can afford to buy all new I say do it.

Probably want to get suspension maxx extended sway bar links as well.

 

Nice truck! Absolutely ditch the paw cap!

 

I have 255x85xr16 with a 1.5" spacer and toytec coilovers. General consensus is 1.5" is about the biggest you wanna go. You wouldn't necessarily need new UCAs, but they would be highly recommended to keep your alignment in check. You won't hit the coils with spacers.

With that setup it pushes the tires out just enough to sit flush with the fender flares.

 

noway lol I am from Reho/lewes area I hit a pothole in Milton on one of the crappy roads spun out and rolled 2x

 

wow I love the stance on it do I need UCAs I really dont want UCA upgrade or sways I am very broke right now and saving for college. Does it ride great? and do you have spacers for wheels as well as tire size and if you think I could fit a 285/75 in there or what max with stock wheels 1.5 in spacers and 5100s on 3rd crank.

 

Have stock UCA's and they are fine with this "lift".

With these 3rd gen Tacoma TRD offroad wheels and 265/75r16 tires I needed 1.25 inch spacers (spidertrax) for it to not rub when turning and to get the look I wanted. My stock sway bar links got bent when I did some offroading in moab. I would say the links are a must IF your sway bar angles are bad at the links. You can do this after you lift.

Stock wheels will be tucked in a bit but not as much as the Tacoma wheels. I'd think you'd have a bit of an issue with 285/75 but I do know that ex member professional hand model ran them on his truck stock. Hard to search his stuff as his name won't come up now.

If you decide you need wheel spacers you NEED to spend the coin on good spacers like Spidertrax or Bora and mount them exactly how the instructions recommend unless you want to risk the wheels to falling off.

I'm out of order but as far as the ride, well it rides like a truck. Seems good to me though. About what I would expect.

 

Damn that is wild. I am in that area too. I’ll keep a look out of the truck