What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Personally I’d try to run a a750 with a 4runner ecu. Non vvti 4.7l 4runner had it. It can handle pretty good power, and the ratios should only help

 

@Ghostly.- can't wait to see that build. I eventually wanna build a separate bottom end by Benson machining. If he's still around by then. Some head porting as well.

 

Lower ball joint and needle bearing replacement day. Ecgs kit was awesome, tool slid right in and bearing came right out.
Almost weird to not have my constant rhythmic vibration anymore.

 

New axle seal too?

 

For sure. Definitely wise to do while it's staring you in the face.

 

Yep! Good call
I’ve got that same tool somewhere

 

Is it wise to use both the removal and install tools listed on the ECGS website?

I see them listed for an 8” bushing, so I’m guessing that’s the same size used on our trucks.

 

Got my downstream O2 sensors today from Rockauto. Looks like they might be going in next week before turkey day.

 

Hopefully they have a revised or better install tool, but any seal install kit will do

 

@daveeasa
Sorry I didn’t respond earlier, 22mm for the flip bolts

 

I was over the weight limit anyway so had to pare down. Damn $65 for 40 lbs is nutty. Flying on the cheap. Taking a griddle for my tenants which goes with the stove, movers boxed it up by mistake.

 

Trimmed up the UBolts, only at 50miles since install but I’m doing a trail run next Saturday so might as well retorque everything. It was all good and tight excerpt the UBolts needed to be snuggled up some more.

 

Changed crackies alternator, and hit up errythang with fluid film. No more flickering interior lights with the truck off!

https://www.tundras.com/threads/crackhead-resurrection.94083/page-73#post-2985830

 

Oh, also, just realized I didn't post on crackies thread, but looks like the lower bushings on my 5100s are wearing out... anyone had success with aftermarket bushings?

I have no idea how old those 5100s are as they were on crackie with my purchase of him.

 

I still need to do the bushing in mine.. I hope it fixes my god awful vibration

 

My "Old Bucket of Bolts" pleasantly surprises me everyday..

Driving through the "Heartland" for our trip north , this dam thing keeps me ... actually tried to get 16 mpg and that included passing a few "Large Cars" along 31 ..

The seats are more comfy than the Lexus , being cloth instead of the leather BUT don't be fooled , it still handles like a 1/2 ton truck , cruising around the Lakes on those windy county roads you better be off the throttle entering then lite pedal through them.... Zoom zoom

She got a Mini-detail Thursday before we left and the rain shield on the drivers door was completely removed; spider cracks finally gave up BUT proper attention to "Detail's" will wait until after we have moved , it is still in work truck mode

 

I did my favorite mod and cheapest to date. I used 1” backer rod I got from work and crammed it between the dash and windshield. It got rid of almost all the rattles and creeks. The truck sounds new and refined

 

I need to do this with my front door window seals. There's a way to shove backer rod in there, apparently, and potentially quell that damn window rattle when partially open.

 

Omg yes for sure. Unfortunately I smoke so my window is down a little bit all the time

 

I need to take my dash apart cuz the backer rod didn't completely fix my rattles.

 

Need to grease those pink phallic looking things?

 

I believe so. I can put upward/forward pressure on the dash halfway between the ipc and stereo and the rattle goes away. Does anyone have a pic of those pink phallic things in the dash? Are they accessible by removing the ipc?

 

There was a guy on here a while back that took pics of those things with his dash apart. I can’t remember who it was though.

 

Ask and ye shall receiveth

https://www.tundras.com/threads/dash-squeak-diagnosis.93688/

 

Damn, if I have to take the dash apart to get to that, I'll just suffer with the rattle. LOL

 

I only got the removal tool. I used a PVC pipe and a cap for the install but I don't recall the size off hand.

 

2”

 

Fixed a "code". Came out to a check engine light when warming up to take the kid to g-mas.
Got home realized I wasnt on EMPTY when I parked last night. Checked codes with OBD2 veakpeak.
P0441,0455. Checked gas cap loose AF. Pretty sure someone siphoning gas last night. Hasn't popped back up. Will check canister hoses etc. Later. Man I have a feeling I have a reason to hate some people.

 

Shitty part is, locking gas caps are not only a PITA at the pump, but these days, I've had a hard time finding one that will last w/o throwing more codes. The last Stant caps I've purchased lasted maybe a year or two?