2004 Tundra Tailgate Fail (NON HANDLE) PLEASE HELP

Hey all,

My 04 tundra handle failed about a hear ago. Instead of a proper fix, I removed the access panel and attached a rope to each rod and would reach inside the bed and twist it to unlock my tailgate. Worked great for awhile...but corrosion was allowed into my latches and has locked them up completely.
In an foolish hail mary. I attemted to loosen the bolts that hold the latches to the tailgate. This sheared them off- because they are intended to be removed from the opposite side by loosening the T-30 screws. After breaking each bolt off I took a fine saw between the tailgate and my tail lights and cut the heads off the T-30 Screws- hoping this would allow me to break off the latches and replace the parts. I cannot remove the latches because they are still locked into the mechanism on bolted to the bed of the truck. AND to boot, now one of my tail lights has failed because of all this grinding and cutting.

WHAT DO I DO!?? PLEASE HELP.

I would be willing to completely remove the tailgate if I could. HOW THE HELL DO I GET IT OFF NOW?

My next move is to cut the bars attached to the truck bed with a 6" cutoff wheel and try and kick the damn thing open. Afraid I will damage the taillights further- but I don't know what else to do. Anything helps, thanks for the read.

 

Worst case if you no longer want the tailgate....just take a sawzall down the center of it and split the tailgate like a barn door. Should be easy to remove after that.

 

Had a similar issue. I was able to cut through the internal latching mechanisms inside the tailgate with a Dremel + right attachment and fiberglass reinforced cutoff wheels. I ordered the replacements ahead of time so I could see where I needed to cut through in order to allow them to release.

 

Sad part is, all you need to do is regularly lubricate the mechanical bits of the plungers and such once a year, once every other year, and you can avoid all of this type of thing.

Pull off the access panel on the back of the tailgate as shown in this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/how...gate-clip-repair-overhaul-beef-up-lube.94180/

You need to jimmy the latch on each side to get the tailgate to pop open. Once open, lube everything. Or just get a new tailgate. Or get a damaged one and swap out the mechanical bits.

Lesson to be learned: Spend the time to maintain your stuff, and don't rig shit if it breaks because you failed to maintain it.

 

(I really hope this wasn't just a troll post. It almost sounds too unbelievable to be real!)

 

Mine was that way when I bought it back in 2017. Drivers side internal latch was seized and it took me several months to diagnose and finally fix it. It wasn't until after falling out of the bed of the truck trying to step over the stuck tailgate, breaking 3 ribs in the process, that I started cutting away at the internals with the Dremel.

 

Thanks for all the responses. I bought some cutoff wheel attachments for my dremel tool. Appreciate this community

 

That's a hell of a way to come to the realization that your tailgate needs to open.

 

A buddy of mine in high school had a truck with a tailgate that was more often stuck than not.

That MF'er was too damn lazy to take the basic step of spraying a lubricant into the latches and working them back and forth. Instead, he'd have one of us hold the handle while he kicked until the plungers on either side of the tailgate finally broke free.

I gave up.

 

Shifty, Yes proper lube solves anything. You are definitely the KING of lube. I bet you're lubed up right now CRANKING THAT HOG BROTHER. In between HOG CRANKING, I'm glad you can find the time to post on forums telling folks the importance of lube. What a guy! I deserve a bit of ribbing on this one one, but (3) post man? For real?

To everybody else, thanks for the great advice. The OP was honest and upfront on the lube situation and the lack there of.

 

May have to pass the “Mangler of the Year” award on to OP.
It’s some tough love.

In the future, it will be cheaper to have a Masarati dealer work on your truck than to attempt the bandaid fixes you have been implementing. When something simple on your truck fails. Research the cause and proper repair. It will actually save you money and keep your truck functional. This fiasco is as likely a simple $3 can of lubricant in the beginning. Then only a $30 tailgate handle after neglecting it. Now your on to some uncharted territory with all the “fixes” you’ve applied.

 

Your third post here is criticizing a regular contributor. Who has the correct answer for those who read this thread in the future. Classy.

 

I mean, I do really like cranking on my hog, bro. This thread is just the fuel to get me going, too! OP has me all wrong though, no lube pls, just rough love.

(still not convinced this wasn't a troll post from a departee coming back to say hello)

 

SHIFTY THUS IS BIG DEB AN I BEEN DRIVIN TUNDRA SINCE 1976. IF YOU TRULEE LIKE CRENKIN HAWG YER HAWG YOUD STOP BEEEIN A KEYBORD WARRIOR AND CRENK THAT MOFO TIL YOU LICKIN SHIFTY JUICE OFF OF YER CHEN

 

Shifty, I appreciate your response. FOLKS hindsight is 2020. Lube is cheap. You're all geniuses. I proudly accept the crown of "Mangler of the year." I never thought I would get ANY responses to this conundrum. I'm blown away this many people chimed in so quickly. Thank you. Just a Dad over hear on a budget trying to get a taillight fixed ASAP. Apologies for being a smartass. Mostly frustrated with myself on this one.

 

Big deb sounds like she needs some lube.

 

No biting or the gig is up

 

The bolded part is my experience every time I try to fix something on my truck. Last oil change I was cold and frustrated and when I was putting the skid plate back on the bolt was cross threaded and I was mad so I just used the impact to get it on. Well, last Saturday I spent 2 hours drilling out that stupid bolt because I couldn't get it off, then I broke a drill bit inside the bolt, so I used my angle grinder to cut off the head of the bolt and now I have a piece of a bolt stuck in there with a drill bit inside

 

Ok, if I can remember this correctly, then a simple cut will free up the latch. I recovered the pic from back when I was trying to tackle this same conundrum.

 

Once the back plate for the tailgate is off, OP should have full access to the latches.

I suspect just spraying some PB Blaster all up in each mechanism (purple arrows is where I'd start), let it set for about 15-20 minutes, then hook into the arm with the red arrow with a coathanger and pull on it a few dozen times will probably free up the mechanism, regardless how bad it's rusted up. Rinse/repeat on each side. Once tailgate is out, you can access the light for the bolt. Then go to the JY and get a new tailgate to pilfer parts from, or just swap it in. After lubing everything up, of course.

 

I havent locked up the latches, but when the titan was new the grease in the doors and tailgate latch would freeze and lock up, so i learned the feel. The feeling of extra resistance. But apparently 2nd gen plastic clips will work, and are beefier.

 

Thanks again every body. One more question.
I will need new parts to get this to operate correctly. anyone have lead on full parts kits for the tailgate?
I will need latches, rods, clips. I still have the handle and the tailgate cover that you remove to access the tailgate hardware.
At a glance, I cant find cheaper replacement parts online. I'd hate to go to the dealer and pay the big bucks.
I'm calling the scrap yards today, but the better ones in my area are 1-3hour drives.

The posts with the pictures are awesome. I am making progress with the dremel tool. Hoping to have it open by tonight.
You guys ROCK!! thanks.

 

What year and cab style are your truck? (double cab had different tailgate)

Just curious. I can get you the exploded diagram and a link to grab the part numbers you'll need. You may be able to find generics with Dorman or something.

Really, your best bet is probably just buying a color-matched replacement tailgate, buying the parts individually will cost more than a used replacement, maybe 2x over.

A site like www.japanesetruckdismantling.net may be able to get you the parts cheaper, shipped to your door, or you may be able to find the parts on fleaBay.

 

Shifty, Thanks.

It is the 2004 SR5 double cab with the 8ft bed.

I'll check out your recommendations.

Costly errors for sure, the biggest thing is getting the tail light fixed now and I could always ratchet strap the tailgate open and closed until I can find salvage components. I'll keep at her.

I did the brakes and rotors last night and that actually went smooth b/c I did a ton of research before performing the repair. Lesson learned.

 

https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2...-BODY-GUARD-FRAME--TAIL-GATE/841420-6553.html

If you need any parts from the bed sides, like the loop the latches hook onto I can grab that too.

This image should help you cross-reference the parts you need to the parts list below the image on that page. Any of the 5-6 digit numbers in the pic, you can search for them in the parts list to see the longer 10-digit OEM part number.

 

Shifty, YOU ARE THE MAN.
I'll reach out when I get into this Mangle
Thanks!

 

I found a complete tailgate at a scrap yard, $100! Can't beat that.
Thanks all. This is an incredible resource for DIY Mangling.

 

We require pics of said mangling. We like pics. Like, a lot.