Crackhead resurrection

Just be leary of the tent of shame.

 

Why is that mislabeled? Should be shame.

 

So what's the best source for Radiator hoses, and Spring clamps? Don't feel like using worm clamps like I did on the 2002. Rather do this one the right way the first time. @empty_lord

 

You don't understand the pain of a body clip flying into your eyeball at Mach Jesus, do you? I busted my damn knuckles, and my eyes in that damned tent more times than I want to admit.

 

OEM on spring clamps. Hoses too. Or use silicon hoses

 

OK. Good idea to do alternator too? Rather have one big ass job I can pick at slowly as opposed to one job I have to keep taking things off for.

No FIPG for the water pump? I see the kit you linked comes with a gasket, but I thought I'd read about Form-in-place-gasket used on the WP?

 

Get Toyota FIPG for the water inlet.
Alternator is a good idea at the same time, if you want to do the upgrade you’ll need to cut the 3rd ear off the alt and re pin the plug. But a 150amp alt is damn near bolt on.
No need to cut the ear if you get the 03-06 stud for the spot

 

Is there a specific FIPG that you would recommend? I don't always understand toyota's mumbo jumbo on their websites.

Alternator changed in 2003? I remember seeing a post of one with a third ear and one without side by side. More amp means more light




So a 2003 alt is a bolt on?

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/04-...swap-on-a-00-tundra-the-3-big-upgrades.67222/

 

^^ And T2, I'm mid-flight on that (though I wimped out and handed the job to my mechanic since I don't have space to have the truck all opened up for longer periods of time and he does.) I'll let you know how it goes. I figured alternator, water pump and serpentine belt and tensioner were a good plan at the same time.

 

there is coolant specific. but its like $80 a tube.. the oil pan black stuff works fine

 

Thinking of going purple with the interior lights for various reasons, but like I mentioned in a post way back when. Purple might be Uber cool if I can find some 74s that are purple too

 

4hi button will push in and stay pushed in. 4lo will push in and come right back out. If 4hi won't engage then 4lo won't either.

Maybe I missed it but how many miles? (Edit: 289k found on what have you done page)

 

I like how you think. It's good if one can budget in doing the alternator while it's more readily accessible during the tb job.

 

What happened to the Sequoia?

 

Sequioa isn't mine so no build thread.

 

You need to do a video walk-around of this thing. One pic is a tease!

 

If you end up loving this one, I'd be tempted the sell your AC since it needs a frame. I wouldn't want to insure 3 vehicles.

 

Hmm I was checking on Rockauto two weeks ago and I could've sworn they had the same kit for like $60 less plus the 5% code that's available on here. Now it says out of stock.

Hurry up and put a cap on that thing.

 

Where is this 5% code you speak up?

 

RockAuto is a vendor on here and TW, they regularly have a new 5% code.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rockauto-com-discount-code-expires-august-24-2021.89480/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rockauto-com-discount-code-expires-november-12-2021.86042/

 

So, I did a good walk around in the cool morning. Apparently, there was a lot that I missed when I was wallering around a Walmart parking lot about noon. The asphalt was about a million degrees.




Kinda bummed if I'm honest. I didn't notice the cab rot because I didn't get in the passengers side. Can that be fixed properly???


Most of this trash is from me. I'll run out to the trash deposit sometime.

Also, I wallered around on the ground looking inside the frame near the front, and then my elbows couldn't take the heat of the asphalt any more. I glanced at the rear and called it good.



Think I'll take this one to Toyota, and have it inspected for a new frame. That's about a 3 inch hole on the spare tire cross member.

My tundra will never leave.

 

Also checked the fluids, radiator is just God awful.


Rest of the engine fluids were at proper levels. Put half a gallon of distilled in it.. Pulled new check engine light codes today.


Live data shows fuel system was in Open loop 100% of the time. I think I've got my work cut out for me with this 100% sure farm truck.

Airbag codes.

 

The rotted rockers suck but the good news is the old ones can be cut out and new ones welded and sealed in. It's done all the time.

Try Corporate for the rest of your frame issues. If you don't have any success and you're determined to keep it, I don't see anything that can't be fixed properly by a skilled welder and the correct material. Again, it's done all the time, but first things first.

Denso radiator ~ $150 + other components needed.

My unsolicited advice is if you plan on keeping it don't drive it this coming winter if the frame and rockers aren't fixed by then. There is hope in that old truck; all it takes is a lil $$$ and some patience.

 

Shoot me the vin. I’ll tell you if it’s open or not for replacement

 

Needs a little work. Strangely, I like the rims.

How's your skillz at fixing the rot under the door?

 

How is the rot that bad in KY? I didn't think yall had rust issues?

 

I had the same question last year for Noah. It has to be from dirt that was left on there for years and never washed off. It shows you how shitty these frames were though. Didn't take much for rot to start.

 

Neighbor has this in his Xterra. Hates it.

Sounds very Ride The Lightning to me.

Meanwhile, you still got a good deal. The rust on that crossmember isn't too bad. IMHO it's the main framerails you should worry about. If those are compromised, you're pretty much screwed.