1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Welcome to the forum! that is a nice truck you got there. I would say these trucks with mods will compete with a stock or lightly modded XJ for sure.

for these trucks, there are kind of 3 different stages you can go. Cheap, medium, and full on long travel race truck.


cheaply modded is some 2" shocks and springs up front (Bilstien 5100/eibach/OME), 2" shocks and an add a leaf or a lift block in the rear, and maybe some minor armor.


My truck is a good example of a cheap truck. Here is my build thread.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/the-1100-tundra-build.32740/


A Mid-tier truck will have higher-end 2" or 2.5" coilers in the front, and nice AAL or Deaver/Archive increased travel leaf packs in the rear. people a lot of times start adding lockers and high-clearance bumpers and skid plates at this point.

Good examples of a mid-tier truck would be @FirstGenVol, @imDementeD and @Casper421 @alee891

https://www.tundras.com/threads/02-daily-driver-weekend-camping-rig.47777/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2003-supercharged-tundra-4x4.48525/

06 Adventure Rig Build

https://www.tundras.com/threads/alee891s-phantom-gray-build-on-35s.71769/

If you wanna get crazy, pick up some ideas from these guys. they've done a lot of work to make their trucks more capable, but with this comes more money.
@Sunnier @AL_TUNDY



https://www.tundras.com/threads/lon...ld-papasmurf-sunnier-build-a-first-gen.44398/

The Life and Chronicles of "AL TUNDY " 1st Gen Long Travel 4x4

 

I've been trying to find a pair of straps I like but without any luck so far. My 60-year-old Mark 1 eyeballs need, alas, a separate pair of reading glasses, and sticking one ear in my t-shirt or sweatshirt is just BEGGING for them to fall out when I lean over something.

Do you have any particular straps, or maybe a chain or "librarian" style cord you like? I don't really care how "uncool" they may look, only that they work well. (I've long since stopped worrying about anyone else's opinion (other than my wife's!) on what I wear or look like; for example, most other Gold Wing riders don't wear leather jacket or chaps but fabric riding suits and give me funny looks at my vest, jacket and chaps. Too bad for them.)

 

I only need glasses for the sun currently so I don't have too much experience with librarian-style products. This is what I use, I just wanted something that floats and was cheap so no big deal if I lost it.

$10 Pilotfish Neoprene Sunglasses Strap – Neoprene Eyewear Retainer, Secure Floating Sunglass Cord with Anti-Slip Ends

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074JGCJ6S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

The strap can kind of interfere and rub against my skin with long hair and a collared shirt but it's not too bad. They've met my expectations - they float and do a great job of staying on the glasses. They are on the smaller side in length and are not adjustable. I probably look like a huge dork with them around the neck while inside but I really don't care how others view my style just like you.

 

I have Spy goggles, they are polarized and on the lighter side of grey. I want to pick up a pair of amber ones, my friend let me try his on and if conditions are a little foggy they seem to help. On days like that I tend to not wear goggles unless I'm on the lift. I also need some for night runs, not sure if amber is good there or just clear.

 

I like my polarized RayBan aviators for living and driving.
I have chromapop (idk, it's forkin pink with an amber flip) lenses in my glasses for riding the MTB. They're great for the bike since I'm in and out of direct sunlight and shaded woods. Easy on the eyes in either condition and without the gnarly lag when transitioning from one to the other.
My goggles have the same chromapop lens, but I haven't used them on any snow. Only muddy trails.

 

I really want to get prescription sunglasses for driving. That would be sick.

 

Amber for cloudy low light, clear for night.

 

Thats what I figured, I'll be on the lookout for off season deals this year. Missed the last two seasons because my wife couldn't go.

 

My "professional grade" master cylinder has arrived. Made in Taiwan.

 

Been about a year and two months since I figured out I have a bad pinion bearing in my rear axle. All is still well, I've driven the truck about 11,000 miles and the sound hasn't gotten worse or better obviously. I guess I'm just gonna keep dealing with it! Haha

 

Good grief. I've been planning on selling my 2000 Access Cab, so I finally got around to looking at KBB. 222K and I can only call it fair condition - and it's between $2600 and $5K??? Now... factor in that it's got a RediPlow mounted and has both new off-road tires AND a new set of Blizzaks with 2000 miles on them... Good grief.

 

I have a story about Chaps that had Holes in the Rears that I’ll save for another day. Costa makes a good glasses wire that attach via rubber tubing into the ear arm.

 

Here's a discount code for cover craft.

Not sure if they make anything for our FGTs because I can't get the website to load.

Figured I'd share anyways. Thanks to @HBTundra

 

I’ve had good luck with “chums” holders

 

Not quite Chinese I guess, it will work though. From my experience Raybestos usually has decent parts.

 

Hi new guy, nice truck!

You can't do a lift spindle with 4wd, we can cross that out.

If you want to run a bigger tire, the biggest without major headaches will be a 33. Either the skinny 255/85/16 (roughly 33x10) or the chubby 285/75/16 (roughly 33x11.25). If you are gonna run the 285 series you might want to run 1.25 or 1.5 spacers, or buy wheels with 4" backspace and 8" width.

You'll probably want a little bit of lift up front. With 4wd the general consensus is don't go more than +2" so your cv joints stay happy. This can be done with shocks that move your coil further up the shock or with fancy coilovers. You may also want aftermarket upper arms to go with those.

Moat other vehicles leave some good horsepower on the table that can be unlocked with a few mods and a tune. These trucks are not that way, there isn't a lot to gain for power. Leave it alone or get headers and a muffler you like.

As far as brakes go, get yours in tip top working order before you start looking to upgrade. Most who experience weak brakes either need fluid bled, need new pads, or need the rears adjusted, or need all 3. There are brake upgrades out there but if any of these things are out of whack its not money well spent.

Check out the threads posted, you'll see a lot there. Welcome.

 

Weird... so much speculation.
https://www.tundras.com/forums/4th-gen-tundras-2022.128/

 

came across this post from few months back. I'm doing the wheelers progressive AAL kit soon. Did you have to cut off the rear factory spring clip? seems to be a fairly common issue from Tacoma world. Just doing a quick look it appears I will have to as well.

Also do you know how much lift you got? I don't see how it will lift anywhere near 1.5". Thinking I'll leave my overload leaf in. Just trying to go into it as prepared as possible.

 

My 2006 Turned 60 today . . .

 

Thanks! I really enjoy the forum. To the interested, the timing belt, tires, and paint are pretty fresh.

i loaded about 1000 lbs of lumber, the 4 speed likes to hold gears, and i experienced speed wobble, which i believed to be a solid axle trait. But its only happened once and quit after stopping and shifting to park. Bushings?

when i get home next week i have some fresh newer bilsteins and leafsprings, and ive got the equivilent of an ‘04 2wd sequoia to rob some parts from. I’ll do the fluids and hunt an oil leak, but the rear axle posi fluid is less than a year old.

Another thought is a plate bumper. Do 100 lb bumpers sag? 200 lb bumpers? Is the chassis comfortable with a winch? For all intents and purposes it looks like its a tacoma xl.

 

2000 Tundra. What are the options here? Can it be temporarily fixed with a clamp? Can it be welded (again?) or does it need all new pipes?

My younger brother got this truck from our grandfather and I'm trying to help

Thanks a bunch,
Milton

 

you know you did good when the light color interior isnt dirty and there were no leftover bolts.

 

proper fix that will last a long while is probably $!00 at an exhaust shop to weld a new y pipe in

 

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2002-toyota-tundra-3/

Trying to figure out why this sold for so much with 102k miles.

 

There's a thread on this unit already.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/2002-sr5-on-bring-a-trailer.83629/#post-2110418

 

Sensei always say: Don’t try to understand. Just accept and let it Flow.

 

We’ve already been invaded. They got inside the wire without a shot. Nothing to see here so move along and continue to talk about your guns. Your boy Turtle has to go.

 

Yeah, it's over.

Just is nice to reminisce sometimes

 

Yeah. Saw a couple Millennial Guys in the Box store the other day with their masks on. The Big Voice from the Sky talking about the necessity of wearing one. One guy was mocking the recorded message yet still continued to wear the face diaper.

Its good to reminisce.