What I love, what I hate: My 21 platinum build thread (Now supercharged)

Oh, now I gotcha. I didn't think about putting it on the outside. That might not be such a bad idea either.

 

Post #10 is pretty much the same as mine.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/bass-adjust-knob-installed-in-factory-blank.68139/

 

Oh that sucks. At least your not in a hurry for the coils.
I don’t know what I was thinking about HU’s earlier. I meant Alpine. It would most likely be the INE-W970hd. Then add the KAC 100 to control all accessories through the HU. Basically like this
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=D9SQ8C_edks

With the maestro I should retain all factory options but with a new head unit.

I do like that face plate on the side of the console you have. My goal is to get as clean as possible in the cab. But that is a really good option.

 

Thanks. I've heard of the Maestro but I don't really know what it does yet. Where I come from (VW tuning), we had Maestro too but in that context it was a full engine management system.

Having HU control over relays would be pretty slick. I too am trying to keep the cab as stock-looking as possible. I'm not thrilled about the idea of a switch panel down by my leg but it seems to be the best option of the few available ideas I came up with.

Thanks. a lot of good ideas discussed in that thread. I'm going to play around with where you put it. I like the location from a usability and hidden perspective, but the DRC-205 (supersedes the 200) has the status LED built into the knob itself I believe vs. being able to mount it remotely like the 200.

 

Unless you’ve been advised otherwise,
I don’t believe the fix86 is needed with your VX amp. That’s what the DSP tuning will do. I’m also running stock HU. I’ll look at my parts list and see exactly what I installed (it’s been a few years.)

 

As I understand it the factory HU in newer vehicles adds its own sound processing. That processing curve changes at various volume levels to avoid overdriving the factory speakers, most notably by cutting the bass at higher volume levels. The Fix86 is needed to un-process that factory processing, and can only do so at a pre-set output level from the factory HU. The downside then of course is that the system is only tuned at one volume level coming from the factory HU. The factory HU volume knob (and SWC's) will still adjust volume whenever needed, but the only level at which you're getting your tuned sound is at the volume level the system was set at when it you tuned it. You then control the system volume with an accessory knob (DRC-205) added to the VX amp. As well, the VX amp can then be tuned to match the vehicle's interior characteristics, the type of music you listen to, and the volume you generally like to listen to it at. The Fix86 also provides you with six pre-outs when it's done. The VX, if I recall, also cannot do 8 high current channels in. So I don't see a way to get out of needing a Fix86 if you want to capture everything possible from the factory outputs? Curious to know what you know though, and if you found a way around it.

 

I’ll dig out my old info and see what the whole install and work around consisted of.

 

OK. Found the parts list, see below. No Fix86. I also found this thread that states the same thing.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/morel-jl-audio-build-question-on-3rd-gen.26616/

If you need any help you can try Auburn Car Tunes 530.885.5132
and talk to Brian, although I called this am and he's out sick today. I'm recalling conversations I had with him and he was able to tune everything from the amp. We had talked Maestro, DSp's and all kinds of stuff before I went with this setup for my stock HU. And just fyi, my system hammers with clarity.

Here is what I ended up using on my install.
-VX1000 5 channel , rear doors left stock for fill.
-Audison 6.5" w/crossover. (separates with tweeter in sail panel) No center speaker.
-AMPPRO add-on TOY interface
-Stinger 4 gauge amp kit
-JL audio stealth box 2 10tw3's

BTW here's the amp location and my sub volume control location. Excuse the mess, I have two boys
I like that spot because my fingers are right there when my arms on the armrest.

 

I don't mean to steal the thread but since we are all talking the same thing. First that SDHQ mount is tits! For some reason I have a scratch in the stock trim(directly under where the Q is) and couldn't tell from their pics if you had to reuse yours or if it came with a new one laser engraved.

Second I am a huge JL fan but wouldn't spend $1 on that Fix again. I have been eyeballing the Vxi amps. So you mean you have zero distortion even at low volume(like 0-10)? If I could get my guy to guarantee no static I would go multiple amps and stock HU and use the SDHQ to control my lights and whatever comes next.


Now back to your regularly scheduled awesome updates from @CrashRat .

 

Thanks for all the interesting build notes! You're definitely not intimidated by electrical work! Yes you need front and rear pinions/rings so you don't self destruct in 4WD. The Nitro gear package I had I installed was GPTUNDRA5.7-5.29. It took me a while to find someone here in that flatlands that could do it and surprisingly was only a couple miles down the road. Glad I found someone locally that was competent as I was about to drive to another state or send the diffs off. My installer used the Nitro package except for pinion seals I elected to go with Toyota seals after reading a number of gearinstalls.com write-ups. Also went with an Auburn LSD for the rear which is cool as I don't have one rear wheel break loose now. I don't need lockers for my present use and if I ever supercharge that Auburn will be helpful in strengthening and avoiding wheel hop. I have 37's...the regear changed the beast...when I let off the brakes it's ready to roll now. Way less sluggish and hunting for gears on the interstate, finds 6th gear again and cruise control is smooth and useful now. I hear top speed limit is not more like 100mph but it's not my "go fast" car so I may never find out. Still have the pedal commander enabled but lightly just to take the edge off. My installer likes Revolution gear and said they had or were close to 5.29 gears as well. Dunno. So far so good. There's a real art to differential work .
https://www.nitro-gear.com/Toyota-9-CS-10-5-Nitro-Gear-Package-p/gptundra5.7.htm

 

my SDHQ is a whole new piece. I have my old one up in a cabinet somewhere.
https://sdhqoffroad.com/collections...-toyota-tundra-shifter-panel-switch-pro-mount

VXI I have zero distortion and zero radio noise. I was worried about that but it all came out good. I wouldn't even know what to do with multiple amps since that one does it all. I guess you could run a center channel and outfit the rear doors as well with another amp. It's pricey though. Coulda got King's for that cash.

 

Thanks. "Hammers with clarity" is exactly what I'm going for here. So you disconnected the center speaker from the JBL altogether? Also sounds like you set the VX up more like a 3-channel, front L/R and sub?

lol thanks. What did you not like about the Fix?

Thanks. Really trying to keep the build notes all about what I liked from the 17, and what I would do differently if I were building one again (which I kind of am I guess lol). Prior to my 17 I've driven exclusively lowered and fast/tuned cars so getting into trucks has been different for sure.

Thank you for your adds. Will order a set of Toyota seals too. Also now that you mention it I recall as well that Nitro doubles the warranty if you use their gear oil too. so I had better get some of that coming. I'm set up to have the gears installed on the 24th. Oh, and I did catch up with Keith today (Dirty Deeds). He let me know that the front and rear gears came from different warehouses so that is why I got one already but not the other. and yeah I did order the Auburn LSD from him too. That will hopefully address one more of my drivability complaints from the 2017. I don't like the incessant wheelspin tendency every time I'm trying to take an off-camber corner like out of a parking lot onto the street for example. A lift only accentuates the problem. I want to send power to the outside wheel where all the weight is transferring to. Makes so much more sense. everything else you mention checks all the boxes on my list too so I'm really looking forward to getting them in!

 

So a quick update on my progress: For reasons only German car-owners can appreciate, today I unexpectedly got to put about 30 miles on the half-reassembled '21. I'm thankful that

1) I had pulled it out of the garage last night, and
2) it was re-assembled enough that it only took about 10 minutes to get it roadworthy. I'm sure I got plenty of looks with my AMP harness all wire-tied up under the frame on both sides lol

Following all the work I did packing the floor, rear wall, doors, and roof with dynamat and following that with closed cell foam insulating pad, the difference between the two trucks is quite remarkable. The 21 is AMAZINGLY quiet inside now. I got back into my 17 for a bit this afternoon too just to compare. It's true that I still have my A/T's on that one and street radials on the 21 but the 17 was SO much louder. I was truly shocked (but pleased that all that work seems to have paid off) at how big of a difference there is. I hope it is still that good once I get my A/T's moved over to the new one.

Now, back to why I had to drive a half-reassembled truck.

My wife's BMW has this electronic pushbutton parking brake. It apparently loves to fail on these cars. It never fails in the "drive-anywhere" position though. Always in the "lock this mofo to the ground forever" mode. Last night, after pulling the truck out of the garage, I ran up the street for a quick bite to eat in the wife's car and parked it in the garage driveway. I went out this morning to bring it around so she could take our daughter to school and the damn e-brake wouldn't release. It really pissed me off. This is the third time I will have changed out that stupid brake. In the meantime, the car sits in my driveway blocking everything until I crawl under there with a pair of bolt cutters and cut one of the e-brake cables. So she had to take our daughter to school in the 17 and I had to cobble the 21 together good enough to go pick up my day laborer dude.

We do like that car though. It's a 2011 X5 Diesel that I've done a full emissions delete and ECU tune on. Good grief can these cars freaking haul ass once you get all the emissions crap out of the way. It was no slouch before but now I'm easily counting triple digits by the end of our freeway onramp. Except when the e-brake is locked up. Then the damn thing just sits there in the driveway pissing me off.

 

@NoRcptn

What factory channels did you connect your VXi to then? It only has four inputs, doesn't it? The factory HU outputs 7, 8 if you count center.

 

Wish I could tell you. I took it down to the local shop because the amp wiring /tuning had me confused. They said they had to re-work some of my stuff

 

Lol I had one of those conversations on my 2017, too. Couldn't figure out how to get my FLCAN wired so had to give up and take it in. The work order I got back from the tech who fixed it said, "many problems." It was a very humbling moment in my hobbyist career lol.

 

My only gripe with the Fix was the calibrating a single position on the HU volume knob. That and the needing to get a second knob to control master volume. I think I still had some static even after that...but I can’t remember for sure. Got rid of my last tundra about a year and half ago.
Last stereo was a HD 900/5 with focal components in front and 6.5’s rear to fill. 2 12” JL TW3 in a custom box.

This time I’m “thinking” if these VXI amps will actually do what’s needed so I don’t need an aftermarket HU or Fix/TwK, then I’ll go with the big 8 channel for front with the 3 way C5’s. No center speaker. Tweeter and 3” will get a total of 75x4. The big 6.5 in the door will each get a bridged pair of inputs at 200x2(if I remember right). Then Stealth box and the 600/1 VXI amp for that. I’m undecided about the rear doors.

 

Keith is awesome and big fan of the regear and he suggested I do that in lieu of a BAM exhaust if I was reaching my budget. Here's the riddle that drives me nuts on the gears and LSD: Nitro instructs to use their para-syn 80w140 lube (syn/dino blend I assume) for their gears and for the Auburn, however Auburn says 80w90 and dino only and offer their own oil and extended warranty with. If you get any further dialogue on this would love to hear. I should've asked Keith his take.

 

@dirtydeeds Keith, I'm the guy in Vancouver, WA who just bought the 5.29's/BA/LSD from you. I was actually just getting ready to text you again this morning with some questions on this but best to ask you here so all can see the response.

Do you have a recommendation for gear oil when using both Auburn and Nitro, and any tips I should pass on to my installer?

I don't like it a lot either but the HU volume/separate knob issue isn't a problem of the Fix it's a problem with the way these so-called high-end audio systems (JBL, Bose, etc) are designed into newer cars. You either live with the factory's "safe-sound" setup or you add your own "great-sound" processing. It's entirely possible to send the factory HU signal straight to any amp of your choosing but you will be backassing all your expensive gear. The factory processing is designed to protect the cheap factory speakers from distorting not make an expensive well-designed aftermarket setup sound really really good at all volume levels. Given the choices of spending $5k on a stereo system and having it sound barely better than stock vs. running a separate volume knob, that's why I'm willing to accept the knob compromise. Like I said, I'm not thrilled about it either but It's not Fix's fault. What's the point of upgrading anything else in the system without it.

BTW the 900/5 is a great amp too. It was on my shopping list until I talked to more people and bought the VXi instead.

 

A few more pieces have moved forward over the last 48 hours. Got my amp wired, accessory circuit tested, all the wires to my back relay panel work as they should. Very glad because I wasn't looking forward to ripping any of that out to fix problems. Started this morning at 4AM on the passenger front door. one layer of dynamat inside & out, one layer of closed cell foam. This truck has eaten 80 square feet of dynamat so far. Probably close to 100sf by the time I'm done matting the other surfaces I want to hit. I'm kicking myself a little bit for not doing the inside of the rear doors before I got them all back together. Check out the video of the difference:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RIsQk5oeLg&feature=youtu.be

There's actually a ton of aftermarket wiring in here. It took some work to hide it all in as close-to-factory routing locations as possible. All that's visible to the untrained eye is my 4ga amp feed. I mounted the fuse holder with machine bolts using rubberized insulating washers on the back side of my fuse box lid to keep the penetrations watertight.


Trying to keep everything serviceable is where the time gets spent on a project like this. After dynamat and foam, I can still get to every service port and bolt in case I ever need to get back in here again for maintenance.

 

Sub'd to follow the thread. This will be one awesome truck! And also call you out on your lie!

There are approximately 37 nails I pounded into that garage as well as a set of my old car keys no doubt somewhere under the concrete.

 

@CrazyFinn That damn van key. I still keep hoping I'll come across it someday and the mystery will be solved lol And yes btw, thank you for your nail contributions. I just went out and counted to make sure I didn't lie again. There were actually 437 of them that were bent so you apparently got more of them than either of us remembered lol

 

I was only counting the ones that actually made a contribution to the structure. The rest were likely due to bourbon overdoses or that harbor freight nail gun. I think the van key gone for good, but at least we didn't burn it down with midnight drunken welding and I was able to sell it for a not too large loss.

 

Interior is starting to look like a truck again. Two more pieces need to arrive before I can completely button it back up. I'm still waiting on my ESP longbox (due next week), and the rear tailgate lock (No ETA - still on backorder). If those things were here already I could be putting the interior completely back together this weekend.

Crutchfield sent these fit-kits with my tweeters. After cutting and drilling, they worked really well. If I ever sell this truck I plan to pull the stereo so I didn't want to go crazy with chopping up truck pieces.


I've gone through 92sf of dynamat so far. will probably make it past 100sf by the time I'm done.


Bed power turns on/off inside the cab.


Bed lights turn on/off with factory cab light.


Rear heated seats turn on/off with my switch panel, so I can make sure they don't get left on by the kids. Also replaced the useless cig lighter plug with 3 USB ports.




Amp/Fix under driver's seat. I built the rack out of sheet metal and wrapped it with black headliner material. It's not an exact match to the carpet but close enough for me.


This switch panel will serve the purpose I set out for it and the location works well for me, however I'm now wishing I had gone to one of the pushbutton panels. I didn't know about those yet when I was ordering all my stuff though. Oh well. Front to back is bed power, front light bar (activated with high beam), rear seat heaters, and nav-in-motion.

 

This one deserves its own update because of how intricate it was.

The updated JL Audio control knob thingy now has the status LED built into the knob so if I put it under the armrest (my favorite location, personally), as many have done with the DRC-200 model, I would not be able to see the status LED. So I instead opted to snug it in next to the tow/haul button. Getting it there took quite a bit of re-measuring and re-re-measuring with my caliper but it does fit if you're extremely careful with the hole placement. I think this is probably the best location for my purposes. I wanted it out of the way, but still accessible and line-of-sight.

Sharpie marks where I'm about to cut. Be very careful here as the airbox is right behind this chunk I'm about to remove.





If you look carefully you can see the little nibs I had to shave down on the back of this panel.


Again, I would have preferred it under the armrest like everyone else does but this is a decent second. Now I can see the status LEDs without taking my eyes off the road.

 

Going with an 18' wide by 9' tall garage door may quite possibly be the single smartest decision I've ever made. I brought both of them into the garage for a bit so I can swap the wheels/tires. Will sell the 2017 with the OE wheels/tires off the 2021.

 

That does look really good. I like that both functions can now be controlled off one knob.

 

Thanks. How did the DRC200 work? I thought it was a dual knob setup too wasn't it?

This has been a long weekend but my wife/kids were out of town and I got a ton of work done in their absence. Mods completed so far:

- Front/rear dashcam with GPS
- complete interior dynamat
- complete interior closed cell foam insulation
- Install stereo: Fix86, VXi 5 channel amp, JL stealthbox, JL 5.25 rear components, Sony 6.5" 3-way components up front, DRC-205 system control
- Driver switch panel
- bed lights on/off with cab light
- swingbox
- Sypder rear tails moved from my 2017
- Wheels/tires moved from my 2017
- exhaust removed in preparation for BAMuffler scheduled to show up Wednesday
- Rear TRD sway bar moved from my 2017
- Hood bulge light bar
- heated rear seats
- bed power (12v & USB)
- Tailgate popper wired
- Powersteps moved from my 2017

I have only two more things arriving before the interior can be permanently put back together: ESP longbox, and tailgate lock. Once those are in I will be done with the interior and move to the exterior enhancements. Those will include

- Full clear bra
- regear to 5.29
- Auburn LSD
- trans valve body reworked by IPT
- Suspension install
- 35" tires (currently running 295/60/20)
- Bedstep
- Airhorn moved from my 2017
- Complete LED lighting moved from my 2017
- Bushwhacker flares moved from my 2017
- BA Muffler
- Truxedo moved from my 2017
- Bike rail attachments moved from my 2017
- anytime fogs
- front/rear anytime cam
- Call Magnuson again and see if they're ready to sell the 2021 supercharger kit yet (ETA sometime this spring when I talked to them mid-Dec)
- Might wrap, might tint headlights. haven't decided yet. Thinking a matte white with tinted headlights might look pretty sweet on this truck
- Also still scouring all your build diaries looking for more cool ideas that I'm missing here.