What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I went new with the LCA's over bushings but mine (34020 PN) I found super cheap during the time (about $100each). The same seller is up to $278each now. Not sure how but I guess I got lucky?

 

I believe @empty_lord has advised using Napa arms. They're around $200/arm.

 

Per @empty_lord's reccomendation...

I have Napa arms under my bed... they will go on when Summit sends me my UCAs eventually... I feel like @bmf4069 parts everywhere, and piling up... except I'm waiting on the rest of the parts to come in.

 

Yea I’ve had no issues with the Napa arms. And the price wasn’t to terrible. But if you wanted to do just the bushings it’s also not a huge deal and would save a bit of money. One of my arms was bent hence the need for new ones

 

A similar thing happened to my 02. I guarantee it was the solvent the tech used. I was cleaning my truck and my dad took a wet rag and started scrubbing on the airbag part of the dash and it started to remove the finish on the airbag

 

Sadly, you have explained exactly what happened to my airbag.
When I picked it up from the first airbag recall there were sticky fingerprints all over its cover. Turns out it wasn't a dirty mess, it was the paint having been lifted and the black plastic showing through.
The second go'round with the inflator recall sealed the deal and really screwed up the finish on that cover.

 

Get one of those sticky (tape) rollers meant for clothes lint. Roll, tear, toss. No vacuum blowing fibers around.

 

That's a great idea ty!!

 

Can you share this part # please.

The 05-06 trucks don't have Fuel Filters? I didn't know this.

 

They are built into the pump assembly, so they have one, it’s just not a serviceable part

 

They also have plastic tanks so the need for a filter is negligible.

I think I shared this story previously but I had a 92 a Dakota that I replaced the pump in around 05, plastic tank, original to the truck pump. Once the fuel was emptied I ran a paper towel on the bottom of the tank expecting some crud. Got next to nothing. After that I stopped worrying about vehicles not having fuel filters.

 

Purchased most of the Timing Belt items today. In total looks like I’m just under the $1,450 range with parts and fluids/etc. per my original $ goal. Deleted some of the sensors I was going to replace to shave the cost down and if they go bad I just replace later. Price includes a new Reman’d Alternator, Fan Bracket, Fan Clutch and all new Coolant Hoses/Clips. Stuff adds up fast.

 

Squeezed this fat bastard on the 5x8 trailer to transport back to work. Had to drop the tire pressure to 3psi to flex between the trailer rails.

 

Mine are in great condition just cracking and deteriorated bushings. I'm going to give the daystar bushings a go and groove some channels into them so I can add low profile grease zerks. I have access to a press so I don't see why it would be a big deal to swap them out. I'm trying to get funds together for a nice front bumper so 4-6 hundo bucks is out of the question. Priorities lol

Do you have stock uca's?

 

I want a fuel water separator like a racor for my 6-8 months in Mexico...I was trying to see if it was possible on the tundra. My outboard motor on my Panga collects quite a bit of water over the season and My racor has saved the day many times. Might just buy a case of sea foam to get me through the winter.

 

i run camberg uppers

 

Ahhh man those are sexy lol

I might opt for the freedom offroad uca's until I can afford camburgs. I've heard they are good just not adjustable.

 

camburgs are not adjustable either. its a fixed amount of extra castor.

 

The part number is 22271-50042. Sorry, had to do some digging. Good luck with the cleaning.

 

Washed the entire truck and AeroSpace 303’d the interior and exterior trims. Cleaned the windows inside and out. Removed the Wind Visors and buffed them. She is looking good. Final parts order tomorrow.

 

Replaced a really poorly installed Clifford remote start / door lock with a new

$70 Viper 4105V 1-Way Remote Start System

Viper 4105V system. Pretty much a one-for-one swap. Properly routed cabling, soldered and heat shrinked.

Installed the safety mechanisms that were bypassed in previous system. Enabled safety cutoff when hood is open, using existing switch in the hood latch. Wired up the parking brake wire (remote start will not work unless parking brake is engaged).

Then, implemented the TPMS warning light bypass: https://www.tundras.com/threads/tpms-bypass-shut-off-disable.52317/

 

Why would you re-activate all those safety features on the auto-start, then bypass a safety feature that would give you a heads up that a tire was about to blow?

 

my thoughts on this are:
TPMS is for the illiterate soccer mom that knows nothing. The system costs quite a bit of money if you have two sets of wheels for summer/winter as some people do. I check my tires occasionally to make sure they are aired up. Also, I have had more issues with cold mornings and hot afternoons and differing pressures in the spare vs 4 corners that it throws the light on all the time. Silly system

 

hmm. i guess. Does make some sense.
I added TPMS to my '86 Saab back in the day & several times it advised me of a rapid pressure loss. Saved me probably 3 rims & gave me time to get out of NY traffic. i liked that nanny. I have it on the Pius & it's only burped when there was a rapid temperature drop. I added air to all the tires & that was that.
Tundra tires are much larger than Pius tires, so....

 

The aftermarket ones that go on the caps are much more informative than the oem tpms. The oem tpms is an idiot light

 

nevermind...found the problem

JK. I don't care for the system...some people do. To each their own

 

Unfortunately, it is too costly to replace all the sensors in my wheels to make it worth the expense. I do often check my tire pressure, as I had done with older cars that never had this modern convenience.

 

Just like a whiz quiz!

 

I think a lot of people would be surprised at how many interior parts are painted for vehicles with non-grey/non-black interiors. Good part is, if you get stuck in a situation like this and the dealer or shop isn't willing to replace the part, or you do it to yourself, there are some great LVP paints on the market to refinish and make it look OEM, or as close as you'll get. I've tried a few on the market, ColorBond and SEM Products are the best I've found on the market if you ever need to go there. Had the closest match depending on manufacturer I was hunting for. ColorBond is probably best for the novice, using their base color and a topcoat with proper prep will get you looking like OEM again.

Nice! Good job. The shop I worked at bitd installed Avital and Clifford primarily, but would install anything people brought in as long as it wasn't from Radio Shack, JC Whitney or similar BS brand. I've seen many a rat's nest in my day from lazy ass shops. That was pre-BestBuy days, I can only imagine what it's like now we have big-box stores installing out there now.