Pump whining sound on cold start!

Hi all!

This only happens when i start the car in the morning.

It sounds like a whining sound from a pump goes on for about 30-45 seconds sound coming from the engine where the belts are. Anyone would know what it is!

Sounds like a windshield washing pump.

 

Check your power steering fluid.

 

Just replaced it! The sound coming from top middle of the engine it sounds like a fuel pump and goes off and everything is fine.

 

Belt squeaking? Belts do that when they are a little loose in the cold.

 

Need new ‘V’ belt.

AKA Serpentine Belt

AKA Accessory Belt

 

That is a good idea but it only does it in the morning or at first start

 

That is when old or loose belts squeak.

 

Spray some water or spray lubricant on the belt and if it goes away you have the culprit. If the sound doesn't go away you can start by spraying pulleys until you find the noisy one. If none of that works then you can move onto harder things.

 

2005 truck sounds like the emissions air pump that is below the intake manifold. Some say it sounds like a hand held vacuum, other say it makes a groaning sound about a minute after a cold start. If you run the engine for 10 minutes, shut down, then restart immediately and don't hear it, highly likely it's air pump as the air pump doesn't activate when the catalytic converters are hot.

 

Air pump is under the intake.

 

I dont think it's the belt it sounds like a pump. when i start the truck it comes on and goes away within 45 seconds. but only when i cold start the engine.

 

It could be the secondary air injection pump as mentioned before. On a cold start it'll make a vacuum-like noise for about 30 seconds or so then shut off. If the truck has been driven and reached operating temperatures then you won't hear it. It sounds like a shopvac or jet engine sound so it's hard to miss.

 

is the secondary air injection noise normal. I am selling my dads 2005 Tundra for him and was just wondering. He says it has done it since he bought it brand new

 

Word is it sounds like a Vacuum Cleaner. I wouldn’t know, as the 2002 doesn’t have it thankfully.

 

Yeah it sounds like a vacuum for a second and then a valve closing as the vacuum flow is shut off. I guess it's like you put your hand over the vacuum but instead of hearing the strained vac it just turns off.

 

Yes like a shop vac or small jet engine my 01 now started this god awful noise on cold start up after it sat for two months while I was trying to diagnose a no start. I replaced starter battery and alternator plus did big four upgrade, turns out it was a corroded wire going to starter that was underneath wire loom. Now when I start it sounds like a shop vac coming from underneath my intake (that I just had off to replace the starter. So can it hurt anything for it to make this noise while the truck warms up? I don’t have the time or money to get underneath the intake right now besides it’s below zero at night when I usually have time to work on it.

 

Sounds like intake gasket to me. Paging @bmf4069 who had a very similar - if not exact same - thing happen recently. Or SAIP, but you'd show a code for that.

This is further supported by the fact you took off the intake in order to replace the starter. Chances are you didn't reinstall gasket correctly or re-used the old one?

 

It’s definitely the secondary air pump. When I first bought this truck (used) I had mine giving me an 2ndary air pump code. Then I started hearing this noise and the light went off. Pump started working (It goes off after a bit of time, or when you started driving forward). Only when it’s absolutely cold.

 

Zombie thread, resurrect!! I bet OP solved their problem.

There is one other possibility to add other than SAIP, which like I said, would toss a code on the 2005-2006 trucks, OP didn't mention any codes.

The other option is linked from this thread. https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

But that's been reported as more of a squeal than a whine, and potentially impacts trucks '00-'06, here is the TSB on it. Some folks' concept of what a "Squeal" and a "Whine" sounds like are subjective.

 

Ok, so it's refreshing to see someone else has the same thing going on as I have with my truck. I was thinking I was just hearing things and this just started recently on my truck.

It definitely sounds like a vaccum cleaner or i could see a jet engine sound also. This only happens on the initial cold start and lasts around a minute. It sounds a little different in the cab, but I am attaching a link to a video of my truck and you can hear the sound over the engine and hear it cut out.

It is definitely not the serpentine belt. Everything I've researched points to the secondary air injection pump under the
intake. I am open to other ideas though and I'm trying to figure out how serious this issue is. It looks like an expensive fix if it is the pump. Has anyone else had this repair done if that is what it is? No check engine light currently.

I have always heard how reliable these trucks are, but so far I've had nothing but issues with mine. Thanks in advance for any help

https://youtu.be/HEEuM-1lbbw

 

Slap one of these on it before it fails completely and call it good.
https://hewitt-tech.com/product/secondary-air-injection-system-bypass-kit-gen-1-v36h/

 

Ok, thanks for the info. I saw a video of bypass kit that is similar to this, but everyone in the comments were talking about the truck will not pass emissions testing with one of these bypass kits on it. I live in metro Atlanta and I have to get emissions done to get my tag renewed each year.

You think it is definitely the air injection pump going bad?

 

I was watching the video and listening, like, "WTF is he talking about?!" then at the last couple seconds I heard it spin down. In ATL, they don't do a full inspection of the interior, so you could get away with the bypass. Source: Metro resident of 20 years and have used similar stuff on previous vehicles.

But yeah, I assume it's the SAIP. There's another good example of it here, sound familiar? You really hear it well on when he gets to the passenger side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3Zoc2eqxqo​

 

Oh and directions on how to replace the SAIP and the valves is here, but fork the money out on OEM parts only, you don't want to be in there again, and buy from Parts.Toyota.com - as you add it to the cart, set it for pickup from the Rick Hendrick dealership specifically, they usually give you 20-30% off MSRP or more for us Atlanta folks, which is the best pricing north of McDonough. Need help with using Toyota Parts system? Check this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gv0RylT--4 ​

 

Thanks for the info Shifty! I was hoping I could draw a response out of you.

Definitely the same sound in the video you posted. That's good to know on the emissions front.
My truck does not have a check engine light yet, so I guess there is a warning before it goes.

Does the SAIP affect anything else that I should be concerned about, or its no issue to just bypass it?

 

I mean, if it was me, and everyone around here thinks I'm crazy for saying it, but I'd just replace the damn thing.

The kits aren't necessarily known to play nice if you have certain other performance mods, stack chips, etc. and I personally like going OEM so you'll never be stuck in the position of wondering later, when some issue pops up, "Man ... is it possible the bypass kit is doing this?"

Will anything bad happen using a bypass kit? Not necessarily. But the kits also aren't bulletproof either. Especially the newer-gen kits, like the one that has you soldering wires at the ECU, some folks have had issues with continued codes after. The simpler, and earlier-version kits are bulletproof but show more wires under the hood. And honestly, there are instructions about how to bypass the system with a simple resistor without spending money on ANY kit. I can link you up with that if it's interesting.

Anything else? Well, it runs for 45-60 seconds at start time strictly for the sake of expediting stuff warming up. My opinion is you won't see significant negative impact.

I just wish someone made a simulator unit that bolted in place of the original, so there was no splicing or soldering involved, it would just send simulated responses back to the ECU as if the pump and valves were still intact. If that was made, I'd probably change my stance.

You may want to get your emissions done sooner than later so you've got another year to decide. With that whine, I wouldn't be surprised if it went out within the next 6 months, assuming you drive it regularly.

 

Thanks for the detailed info Shifty! I have learned so much from your posts about our trucks in this forum.

I tend to agree with you on just fixing it and using OEM parts, but I am a little tapped out at this point from all the money I've spent on the truck in the last 6 months. Do you know of a good local shop in our area that work on our 1st gen trucks and could do the work correctly, if I did go ahead and just get the Toyota parts to fix it?

I am possibly interested in the resistor idea you mentioned. If you don't mind sending me the info on that I may also consider that idea. I do drive the truck about 50 or 60 miles a day most days and my renewal is coming up, so I think I will take your advise and run and get the emissions done before the pump goes out. I have read the truck will go into limp mode once the pump quits. Do you know that to be the case?

Thanks again for all your help! I love the truck, but it has been nickel and diming me for months now and my wife is pushing me to just sell it and get a newer gen Tundra. I am trying to resist, but things like this are making it challenging.

 

LexTechs and ToyoTechs will both do the work. You may want to quote them out on it.

For reference only the AIP bypass info is attached, it's a good referential read to understand the system and how it actually works. The method attached, as I think you may notice, is almost identical to what vendors out there are showing in their videos and instruction manuals, suggesting some kits you'll buy online are just gussied up, polished versions of the attached.

 

PS - these trucks are legitimately million-mile vehicles. While it might seem like you're getting nickel-and-dimed, there's nothing financially worse you can do to yourself at this point than buy a new or used car.

If money is an issue, you may just want to bypass SAIP for now, until you can get by. But really, you don't need to do anything until it fails. I assure you, whatever this truck is costing you can't be half of what another new/used car would.

 

Thats what I was hoping to read because I really want to keep the truck. I've always heard these models are some of the most reliable. I just traded up last year from a 2002 Tacoma that I put nearly 400k on and had for 20+ plus years. I mainly bought the tundra because i needed the 4 doors to haul my kids around and I love Toyota trucks.

Some of what I have done so far is just preventative maintenance. I had the timing belt and lower ball joints replaced shortly after purchase, which I knew about going in. I did have a transmission leak, but turns out whoever had the truck before me damaged the tailshaft housing trying to replace the seal themselves. I had to buy a new housing and get a new carrier bearing and the drive shaft balanced. The truck only has 170,000 on it, so I am going to just keep driving it and work on things as I can like you suggest.

I tip my hat to your expansive knowledge of the 1st gen Tundras and I appreciate the links and shop info. I may need to bug you for more info in the future, but for now my faith is restored in these trucks!