What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

If the DC bed is deeper, doesn’t that mean it can hold more than the shorty AC?

 

More water? Tie-downs tie 'down' for a reason. The lighter weight helps a bit. The narrowness helps alot.

 

Where'd you find a new 4.30 ring and pinion for sale? I know Yukon used to have one but I think they quit making em. I thought you had to get lucky in the junkyard with a 00-04 V6 4x4 auto trans FGT

Also where'd you find tri-y headers?

 

Who you calling shorty? Last I checked the AC was an inch longer than DC lol

 

I got the last set of tri-y ever made by Stan before he retired. There's a company in Australia that make a mid-length tri-y for the 100 series right hand drive Land Cruiser but they won't fit the LHD Tundra.

Our only options for headers are JBA shorties or Dirty Deeds long tubes.

And Summit still carries a wide variety of Yukon gears for our trucks.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-24589/make/toyota/model/tundra/year/2006

Local offroad shop quoted $1,000 for parts and install. I've already got the factory LSD, but some spicier gears would improve acceleration.

 

Yeah I got some of the last sets of JBA longtubes. I'm also tuned and have the DD12's, so I'm excited to see your dyno results.

 

Red line: tri-y, DD 12 hole, custom 2.5 single exhaust.
Blue line: stock with DD 12 hole.

I'll dyno again after the VF chip.

 

I assume the gears will make up for the power loss from the tires too. I'm on 4.56 and 33's. Someday I'd love to dyno my trucks

 

If I do gears before cams I'm not sure I'll get an apples to apples comparison on actual power gains from the cams. I feel like the change in gear ratio will change chassis dyno results.

Maybe dyno after gear change but before cam to see how it effects power? Then I can compare baseline gear change vs cam change dynos.

I think I just talked myself into gears and more dyno time.

 

I’d definitely do gears last to get the proper dyno comparison.
I’ve done most of the stuff you have so far, injectors, long tubes with x pipe duals out. But 4.88s woke the truck up for sure.

 

I think we have a winner, winner, chicken dinner!

 

Let's all dyno our trucks! Those of us with the power mods anyways. Normies need not apply...
I wonder where I can get mine done and how much it would cost?

 

The shop I go to is $50 for 3 pulls. They pick the best pull and give those results. The operator is always impressed with how consistent the 4.7 is run to run.

If you're in NW GA, Moe's Speed Shop is the place to go.

 

Do they specialize in speed? I feel like out here most people aren’t wanting or trying to attract trucks for dyno runs? Or they don’t care, 50$ is 50$

 

Good to know. I'll have to search around Houston and see what I can find on my side of town. $50 seems very reasonable. Do they do the pulls or do they let you?

 

They do a bit of everything. Drag cars, dune buggies, street, carb, EFI, and boosted. But yeah, $50 is $50.

They do the pulls. They drive the truck in, strap it down, and drive. I just watch.

 

Ordered an air filter for a few cars from Rockauto; discount code worked -
265676881199123591 expires June 7th 2024

 

Gave her a nice wash. Had some 2030 meal size critters splattered across the front end from last week’s trip.

 

About lost my camper shell glass! It is an old SnugTop, pretty decent. Another first for me, I've never messed with a camper shell/hardware before. Pretty straight forward easy to figure out.
Everything got soaked/lubed with some Deep Creeper, as usual my shit is rusty af but we're makin it work Uh, I took a lot of pics
Beefed up the Rivets one size, got the gasket all back in place correctly, Adjusted (bent) the closing bars and a little flap disking so it locks super easy. Lucky save, and a good fix today.




Looks like she snuck out for a bachelorette party with the ladies last night...

 

Remember @RUSTYNUTS having this issue…

 

This seal is pulling out on my rear door.

​

 

De-chrome! De-chrome!

I've been obsessing over my chrome mirrors for years. At first I thought I'd paint them to match, but painting chrome never works well. Then I thought I'd wrap them...I even bought the material. But, I still needed to figure out how to pop the caps without breaking anything <sigh>. Then last spring I parked under a tree which coated my windshield and side mirrors with this resinous goo, which hardened and resisted washing, so I scraped it off with a razor blade. Worked great on the windshield, but guess what? The side mirrors are coated with plastic or some such thing, so now they have scratches! (BTW, the replacement heater mirror glass with backing costs ~ $50 each).

I looked at Rock Auto for black replacement mirrors, and found one on closeout for $25 (left side only). It's mate for the right side cost $55.

 

Chrome isn't that hard to paint. Just gotta prep it right.
Sand the shit out of it first. Then wipe it up clean with alcohol or wash with water and let dry. Then hit it with like three coats of self etching primer. Let dry. Then paint. Dry. Clear coat.

 

Crap. I’m hearing clunking from the front driver side very similar to the passenger side I was hearing before changing the tie rod end links. The passenger side came loose just by undoing the top bolt.

Wonder if maybe the new one didn’t set right on DS?… unless it’s LBJ

 

Yeah, That stuff is SO cracked and brittle, I am amazed I got it to stretch back over the glass. I cringed when I did it.
I soaked it in DeepCreep for a few minutes min. still had to dead blow it in to the rivet alignment... a little harder than I wanted to.

 

Really like the bumper and skid plate. Remind me where you got them or did you fab?

Edit: Found it. Do you nake these for others or any build info to share if you don't mind a (n attempted) copy being out there?

 

I was thinking that same thing how nice that looks with all the lights tucked in there, and the angles in the plate compliment the angles in the grill, Nice work @Voss

 

Are the boots busted or blown out at all? Maybe it just wasn't fully seated?