What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

No not yet. But in the near-ish future. I have a few things that need fixed first

 

Isn't a build thread a thread of you fixing it?

 

Lol


It is a Toyota good sir, there are no repairs, only advanced maintenance.

 

Been having what felt like the ABS kick in randomly when coming to a stop with the wheel turned. Turns out the passenger side ABS sensor was loose; quickest fix i've done yet!

I also finally tracked down why my fog lights don't work. I thought it was originally due to the LED projector headlight mod, but even with stock bulbs they weren't working. No blown fuse, fog light relay was functional. When the switch was turned on, i couldn't hear the relay click. Hoping it was the switch and not a broken wire somewhere, i found this little nugget in the FSM:


Sure enough, no continuity between pin 10 & 11 when the switch was ON. Ordered a used one off ebay for $35. i can't stomach the near $200 toyota wants for a new one at the moment.

 

How long are those extended links I'm trying to put in the the same coil overs as you and feel like my new links aren't going to be long enough but haven't gotten that far yet

 

When your new switch arrives, pop the old one off and try to get to the guts of that switch. Maybe a good cleaning will get it back in working order and you'll have yourself a spare.

 

Excellent idea, I'll make sure to do that!

 

Thanks! That hose looks about right.

Thanks shifty, I have a new pcv and hose coming soon n the mail.

Things I did today, Got the new wood door inserts today and they popped right in. It does look ok without the center bezel, but not great. I’m going to need more wood. Fresh oil change after 200mile Seafoam, alignment is perfect, new Wix air, $5 magnetic oil plug because why not? Greased Zerks, and did the DIY paper clip zero point calibration for the VSC. Got rid of every abs code I had.

I had a shop check out the front suspension to make sure I’m not missing anything. Power steering has a tiny bit of play, boots throw a little grease but not much, however the driver LBJ has moderate 1/8” play. I thought this was super bad but my mechanic says I should be good for a few months until I lift and replace it. Leaving on a 500mile turkey hunt tomorrow, should I worry? I’ve seen the pictures

 

Extended are +1"

You should ultimately install extended links on any lift that's 1¼" or more.

 

I have play in my rack too. OEM/factory bushings. More slop than I like, but not a job I want to tackle right now.

I just replaced my hoses also. I dunno why Vent hose #1 doesn't match what @importxpresions posted. My part ends in 70, not 50. This is one of those cases where I'd really urge you to use the EPC DATA website to source your part based on VIN rather than relying on me or others. It's super easy, plug your VIN into search box, search, hardest part from there is drilling down thru exploded pictures to find what you need. It's the most logical system I've been able to find.

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Finally did something with the battery hold down @DarkMint sent me a while back. Cleaned it up nice and painted any of the rough areas. Note my old ass battery that keeps hanging on, knock on wood.

Figured I better get mine off before it gets worse.

Guess I fat fingered both these pics.

Gonna clean up my original so it can go on my father in laws truck. It's supposed to be back from "paint" soon after nearly 3 years.

 

This is much better than how I was searching before. Thanks again. I really just want to make a delete or catch can for those pcv vapours but I can’t decide if it’s risky or not. I will look into it again when I clean/bypass the throttle body

good work! Mine is dissolving and I need to do this also. And clean underneath the tray and hit it with some paint.

Anyone have a photo of their 4.7 TB coolant bypass? Thinking about doing it for summer driving but want to keep it reversible

 

Rust belt repairs. I remember fighting it growing up near Buffalo. Texas AZ NM are where it's at

 

I wouldn’t worry too much. I just replaced my bushings with energy suspension. Torqued to spec and they felt nice and tight for the first 20 miles or so now I can’t remember if they felt this loose or not. Probably marginally better but don’t feel as tight as the first ride. Maybe I’m getting used to them but still feel a little sloppy

 

So been having issue with turn signal not cancelling (turning off after turning left and then back straight). Been wondering if can just replace this stalk or if need to remove the steering wheel and replace the clock spring assembly. Have removed and verified the turn signal assembly seems to work but likely is not interfacing with clock spring? Read up and saw maybe there's a mod to just make the tab longer so it gets hit and cancels when the steering wheel spins back but seems like that involved a non permanent bit of black tape IIRC!? Any additonal advice appreciated.

Edit: pretty sure its not the blinker fluid level so thank in advance for sparing that recommendation

 

It's definitely this

 

Looks like something good for cleaning out the colon.

 

That won't work on the Topaz apparently.

 

Well if you don't have a Topaz then no worries

 

Probably the stalk needs to be replaced. I replaced my OEM with a unit from Amazon or eBay because I wanted the stalk with the fog light switch built-in. The new one is very clicky when turning on the turn signals. Almost feels like I'm going to break it right before it actually clicks over. I figure over time it will wear and become less clicky. I think there is a spring in there that pops the stalk back when you finish the turn. Maybe yours is too worn now.

 

Yes probably easiest to just try that. Then if that doesn't fix it r&r the clock spring next.

 

Replaced 2 more hard brake lines (the 2 on the driver side in front by the frame rail) and bled the brakes (RR, PV, RL, FR, FL, then master bleed port with the truck running). Also changed the oil, spliced together a harness for my radio (PO used a pre-made harness with no provision for the parking brake which was needed to remove his phones from the radio and add mine).

Hopefully Saturday I can swap the rear shocks.

 

Changed up the roof rack today I found a old Thule basket but not sure how i feel about it yet.

 

Finally had 30 minutes to swap out the screechy-ass non-OEM pads PO put on this damn thing with some OEM/Advics ceramics. But should've never started this at 8:30am before coffee, had to revers the pads on passenger side because I totally spaced on whether the screamer was inboard/leading or not. Meh. Noticed the paint marker indexes I had on my LBJ bolts came off, so re-tagged those and re-checked torque (all OK).

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Double springs. This is the way.

 

I've always wondered if there should be one or two springs? Can't figure out if they intended to have two or not.

 

I've seen both setups. I swore mine had two per caliper, but ... it was just one, on the high side. But since Advics pre-glues the shims on their kits and provides all new slide clips and springs, I tossed in the extras. Ain't killing anything. But I stuck with the OEM clips for the slides, I prefer that design better and they still had ample tension.

 

I've been curious if they help with preventing brakes from sticking and returning, but haven't been curious enough to try it. Maybe one day.

 

I’m guessing you primarily only want it on the leading edge, similar to the screamer, i.e. only at the top of the caliper. The “springs” seem less like springs and more like retainers to me? They don’t really put a lot of force onto anything as far as I can tell.

 

Finally set aside 20mins to get that CV axle "dust seal" (looks like an oil slinger to me) replaced. Prob spent just as long installing it as I did making a short writeup on the topic ... https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-replacing-dust-seal-oil-slinger-on-oem-cv-axle.141617/