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Zoom to gloom part 2

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by nennaac, Sep 29, 2020.

  1. Sep 29, 2020 at 9:52 PM
    #1
    nennaac

    nennaac [OP] New Member

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    Pahrump NV
    Vehicle:
    2000 TRD Black Tundra 4WD V8
    Lifted, Coilovers,
    Tundra has taken ill again.
    OBD code p0171 bank one lean.
    Last time the problem turned out to be the wires going to the crankshaft position sensor were shorting out due to a loss insulation that had worn from their position and father time.
    At that time a year ago, i changed the crankshaft position sensor, all four O2 sensors, all 8 coils ( because they were failing) , 8 sparkplugs ,fuel filter, fuel pump.
    Im having similar symptoms now once again.
    Of course im thinking the same but only different, but upon a hands on inspection the wires to the CrkPosSens are not the problem. I don't think
    There are no vacuum leaks
    The symptoms are the motor starts and idles lower than normal .
    A fast push on the pedal is similar to a carb without an accelerator pump, and only small pumps will get it to go any further in rpms, pretty much doesnt want to go over 1500rpms. And it pops and stumbles on its way past that.
    The mass airflow was cleaned but was disconnected by mistake with the car running.
    That may have caused more problems?
    The O2 sensor upstream #1 bank was disconnected also and the motor started with no difference, so i replaced the sensor , didnt change a thing , but i drove the truck forgetting to reconnect the O2 sensor.
    So is this a mess or what.
    I really need some guidance here,
    Thanks Charles
     
  2. Sep 30, 2020 at 6:31 AM
    #2
    N84434

    N84434 In the Frozen Tundra

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    Maybe a clogged catalytic converter?? At the very least, I would disconnect the battery for 10-20 minutes and let it reset the Volatile memory.

    While the battery is disconnected, inspect everything that has been disturbed over the last few months and make sure all connectors are secure, all lines are tight and all hardware is secure.

    Keep us posted...:thumbsup:
     
  3. Sep 30, 2020 at 11:22 AM
    #3
    PenderBen

    PenderBen New Member

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    Gulf Islands, BC Canada
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    What brands of parts did you use for all the new parts, OEM (or equivalent), or cheaper parts?
    I’ve read of, but never experienced, premature failure of cheap parts, like sensors and coil packs, which could lead to those symptoms.
    N84434’s advice is a good place to start too.
     
  4. Sep 30, 2020 at 10:55 PM
    #4
    nennaac

    nennaac [OP] New Member

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    Lifted, Coilovers,
    I'm all ears and elbows busted knuckles.....
    I havent checked , because even cheaper coil packs should last 5,000 miles one would think.
    I did not match them , there are different price ranges in there from rock auto.
    A friend of a friend with a better understanding of code readers found the upstream O2 sensor #1 bank had no voltage going to it.
    I havent checked the new Denso i installed in its place. It didnt change the problem.
    The temperatures upstream of the cats is 40° higher than the downstrem side.
    Is anyone familiar with the small adjustable regulator on the drivers side fuel rail, it looks to be a diaphram type that increases the pressure when adjusted downward. Ive read it acts as a dampner and should be adjusted all the way down.
    Im going to check the plugs on the #1 bank in the morning, ill disconnect the battery then.
     
  5. Oct 1, 2020 at 11:37 AM
    #5
    nennaac

    nennaac [OP] New Member

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    Lifted, Coilovers,
    Update not exactly looking up,
    I removed the negative cable only,
    An hour later i started the motor, it runs worse , has a heavy lope like full race cam, and will not smoothly run above idle , but!! the check engine light is now off,
    Going after the coils next.
     
  6. Oct 1, 2020 at 11:47 AM
    #6
    nennaac

    nennaac [OP] New Member

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    Lifted, Coilovers,
    It wasnt long until i found a dead cylinder , disconnecting # 3 coil connector produced no response, im worried about the sparkplug boot didnt make the move and is stuck way down there. It is one of the cheapest coils i bought
     
  7. Oct 1, 2020 at 12:27 PM
    #7
    N84434

    N84434 In the Frozen Tundra

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    Well, perhaps you've found the culprit. You should be able to see down the hole and see if there's anything other than a spark plug in there.
     
  8. Oct 2, 2020 at 6:07 PM
    #8
    nennaac

    nennaac [OP] New Member

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    Lifted, Coilovers,
    Theres nothing ugly, the plug wasnt bad a little darker than it should be, the hardest part was removing the torn off end of the coil boot, i replaced the coil with one of my old reuseable ones.
    After connecting the battery, and there is spark at the coil #3btw it starts normally holds idle briefly, then the rpms drop to 500 and the race cam lope starts,
     
  9. Oct 2, 2020 at 11:46 PM
    #9
    PenderBen

    PenderBen New Member

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    Does it rev up now, or basically the same as before?
     
  10. Oct 3, 2020 at 1:52 AM
    #10
    nennaac

    nennaac [OP] New Member

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    Lifted, Coilovers,
    Any attempt at increasing the rpms in a normal fashion is futile.
    All the cylinders react to a loss of signal now .
    The check engine is off
    The lopeing idle is what slays me,
    Its like a very advanced timing possibly;
     
  11. Oct 3, 2020 at 1:19 PM
    #11
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Have you checked your timing belt cam marks? Remove and see if they are both lined up on the straight line and your crank pulley is on zero. Maybe skipped belt?
     
    N84434 likes this.
  12. Oct 3, 2020 at 3:26 PM
    #12
    nennaac

    nennaac [OP] New Member

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    Lifted, Coilovers,
    Im dreading that outcome, the belt was changed at 90,000 i was
    , seems to me a skipped tooth would not even start , this one starts like my old Tacoma ,never a problem, i only lifted the hood to change the oil, 1998 Taco Xtra, trd. I should have never sold that rust bucket.
    Thanks is there a way to get a visual without a major removal of parts.
     
  13. Oct 3, 2020 at 4:08 PM
    #13
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Three bolts and one crown nut on the easy pass side. 4 and 1 on the driver side, but that one requires wires removed. Basically, no easy way.
     
  14. Oct 3, 2020 at 5:27 PM
    #14
    nennaac

    nennaac [OP] New Member

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    Lifted, Coilovers,
    I'll have a look 1st thing morning,
    Thankyou very much
     
  15. Oct 3, 2020 at 5:35 PM
    #15
    N84434

    N84434 In the Frozen Tundra

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    I had an alignment pin break on a cam gear once. It allowed the gear to move about 8 degrees. Just enough to make the engine run like crap. Took me forever to figure that one out. Thankfully it didn’t slip so much that the valves got intimate with the Pistons.
    If you’re looking at the alignment of the belt look closely at the gears to make sure they didn’t slip

    keep us posted!
     
  16. Oct 10, 2020 at 6:01 PM
    #16
    nennaac

    nennaac [OP] New Member

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    Update ,
    a recent gearhead acquaintance of the youngest generation made a fool of me, not on purpose of course.
    She showed me a code that clearly pinpoints a cam posistion sensor P1340.

    Before i delve into the timing belt abyss
     
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  17. Oct 14, 2020 at 1:44 PM
    #17
    nennaac

    nennaac [OP] New Member

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    OK, im having a stoopid question about the 4.7 in my truck.
    I ordered two camshaft position sensors, is there only one ? which would be a relief of sorts as i cant find one on the passenger side, bank 2
     
  18. Oct 14, 2020 at 1:45 PM
    #18
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Correct. Only one on the driver side.
     
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  19. Oct 18, 2020 at 4:17 AM
    #19
    nennaac

    nennaac [OP] New Member

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    Another update
    Spent most of thee day installing a camshaft position sensor, it change a thing, Tundra still not driveable.
    Got a good look at the timimg belt, everything is in its proper place as far as the cam timing and the condition of the belt is fantastic. I may have it towed to a dealer,
     
  20. Oct 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM
    #20
    10 blue trucks

    10 blue trucks New Member

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    those cam sensor wires have been known to get caught in belts and pulleys, i would investigate to make sure you have proper wire integrity , since you already did the hard parts of digging into the timing covers..
     
  21. Oct 20, 2020 at 2:03 AM
    #21
    nennaac

    nennaac [OP] New Member

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    Lifted, Coilovers,
    Ive taken the fan and shroud off serpentine belt is off, going in again in the morning.
    I had crankshaft sensor wires worn through the insulation last year, and these symptoms are very familiar, ive inspected last years mending already, ive nowhere else to turn.
     
  22. Oct 20, 2020 at 4:21 AM
    #22
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

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    This is kind of a shot in the dark, but it's easy, free and will take about 30 seconds. Try unplugging the MAF sensor and see if it makes it run worse.

    The reason I suggest this is that when I've forgotten to reconnect a MAF sensor in the past (I've done it several times on different vehicles) the symptoms are similar to those you're describing: sluggish idle, poor response to throttle input. So if you unplug it, and it makes it run worse (or not at all) then you know the MAF sensor hasn't failed and is providing at least some feedback to the ECM. If disconnecting the MAF sensor doesn't do anything, then it would indicate that the sensor has failed.
     
  23. Oct 26, 2020 at 12:52 PM
    #23
    nennaac

    nennaac [OP] New Member

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    Ive taken the cooling fan and shroud off for a better look see , i believe i tested the maf sensor as you have directed earlier, the motor stops running.
     
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  24. Oct 27, 2020 at 11:43 AM
    #24
    KNABORES

    KNABORES New Member

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    Bilstein 5100's 16x8 589's with 265/75/16 and 1.25" spacers Flowmaster 50 series over the axle dump Westin bull bar with 20" LED Pioneer touchscreen with backup camera Full interior and dash LED conversion Trailer brake controller with 7 pin Bedliner coat bumpers trim and tool box
    Sounds like a timing issue, or a poor spark issue. I would suspect the cheap coils are at fault here. And no, they don't have to last 5,000 miles, they're cheap for a reason. I had a set of cheap tie rod ends last 1 month.
     

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