Worth it? 2001 4.7 V8 272,000mi for $4,500

Edit: it’s 4x4

I’m sure this kind of question gets asked all the time, but as someone with zero experience with trucks and somewhat limited mechanical knowledge at the moment, I thought I’d leave it up to the experts. The owner claims a ton of regular maintenance detailed below. The only caveat is that most of the mechanic shops in the remote-ish area are closed and the owner doesn’t want to drive to a further one to get it inspected.

Owner states that the timing belt was last done at 197k and no frame rust, non-rusty state.
Other maintenance includes:
“Just had front brakes done including calipers pads and rotors. Has had recent shocks and struts, upper and lower ball joints, polyurethane steering rack bushings, and front wheel bearings. The truck has a 6in lift, 3in suspension lift and a 3in body lift. It has headers and a flowmaster cat back exhaust (sounds good not super loud). A/C and heat work good.”

Problems: “Only problems are a cracked windshield and the abs likes to activate when stopping at slow speeds no abs light though haven’t had Time to track it down probably just a faulty sensor also the tailgate handle is broken still operates but it’s a bit of a pain.”

Is this worth driving 3 hours for? And what should I look out for beyond checking basic stuff like rust, rubber and fluids?

All input is appreciated.

 

Not a bad price. Is it 4wd?

 

Yes

 

We like pics

 

Pics are worth 1000 words

 

Pics added

 

Not the original wheel flare in the rear. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s hiding some wheel arch body rot. Doesn’t look like it was well kept, but it’s probably a work truck. If you’re going to use it as a work truck, sure.

Look under the rear bedliner (if there is one) to see if the pickup bed floor is rotted out with holes in it.

Probably a cheap rough country lift with spacers to go with it as well.

 

You could do better where I’m at. I paid $5,100 out the door for this one in January. 245k then, 248k now.

 

For a non-rusty “state”, I see a lot of surface rust so make sure you know how to differentiate it from rust that's penetrated the metal and started to delaminate layers of metal on the frame.

 

Rode hard and put away wet! Make sure you crawl your ass underneath and check every inch of that frame.

 

It looks a little rough for 4500

 

Yeah, they’re not telling you something, so no, not worth it.

Did you read the “So you wanna buy a 1st Gen” sticky thread? Don’t trust that motherfucker on what he says about the frame or the timing belt.

 

How does the seat metal rust out?

I love that sequoia posted in this thread, I would buy something like that all day son.

 

After a fast glance at exterior and interior I go straight to staring deeply under her skirt for rust. No under skirt pics is suspect to me.

I'd aim for better stuff like AZBoatHauler got - it just takes time to find that - usually 6mos or more for me yet it is worth it. Luck deciding

 

Took me a solid 6-8 months of casual hunting to find my truck.

 

Just read the thread. If I were to check it thoroughly for penetrative rust, tapping or taking a screwdriver to it, and I find that it’s alright, would you say go for it? You mentioned there’s something he’s not telling me, you mean in reference to the rust?

Will also be checking for service records and the condition of the timing belt before I go ahead with it.

The only issue is that I’m a student and need a form of transportation as my car was hit and run totaled recently.

That being said, I’d be willing to walk away if it doesn’t look solid.

 

Walk away, that truck looks rough, it also looks as if it is going to cost you a boat load of money in the near future.

 

First, blue sticker on firewall is the sticker you get with the Aisin (OEM) timing belt kit to track when the belt was changed. BUT, you can buy those stickers for like five bucks, and fudge it. A lot cheaper than changing the belt. I’d want to see proof. 10mm and a peek under either timing cover will tell you.

But here’s the thing. We’ve looked at a LOT of 1st gen’s on here. You see how the silver intake manifold is mottled, pitted looking? Look around at the fasteners, see all that rust up under the hood? The hood latch. Positive battery cable. The clamps on hoses? Missing bolt with rust marks in its spot on the V8 cover? That’s exactly what salt belt trucks have, but southern trucks DO NOT. It’s a huge red flag. Even if the frame is solid, like, because it’s been replaced under the recall due to being so rusty, you are literally going to be fighting with every single fastener with each maintenance task you do. It may be being sold in a non-rust state, but clearly it lived or drove in one, where they salt roads, like Utah or something. Run the VIN at any free VINsearch site, see where the registration was renewed every year. The fact he didn’t send significant frame pics is potentially telling.

But beyond that probable lie of a solid frame, 3” suspension lift with a 3” body lift requires a lot of hacking and is probably related to the ABS engagement issue that may be a shitty thing to track down, it’s either due to sensor install problem, wheel bearing or tone ring pressing issue, we get those complaints on here pretty frequently. Do you really want to inherit someone else’s project, as a student, needing RELIABLE transportation?

I would not drive even one hour, much less 3. This dude is looking to fuck you over. Walk away. You’re looking at a can of worms here.

 

Yep, keep lookin

 

Don't buy trucks from the boonies of WA my guy, stick to looking in the metro areas. Plenty of nice 1st gen Tundras in the Seattle Tacoma bubble used for nothing but grocery getting. Once you go north of Lynnwood, south of Lakewood, and east of Sammamish you're hitting country boy territory where they use and abuse their trucks like a truck's meant to be used and they will have PLENTY of rust even in a "rust-free" state like WA. But that's not what you wanna buy.

My opinion, that truck looks nasty (bad nasty not good nasty).

 

Oh and @samabbott06 I noticed two a couple things this morning scrolling up.

First off, the rust inside the cab, on the seat parts, as everyone said, that only happens if humidity is in the cab of the truck (water leak). Furthermore, I see evidence of mildew in the leather and in the back passenger door plastics.

Also, I see the front driver framehorn of the truck, and the frame definitely has rust. Not outrageously so, but it's definitely seen some shit.

But the bigger red flag is this, easy to miss. There's an ozone machine (odor killer) sitting in the front passenger floorboard in one of the pics. Dude is trying to conceal a smell, be it mildew, cigarette smoke, rodent/animals, dead body, or any/all of the above. Something not right here....

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And you should. Now.

 

Take shifty advice brother. There are plenty of other trucks out there. This is a pass

 

I think it's a good price

A lot of these trucks leak from the wiper grill plastic bolt thingys. Put silicone around it and replace that stops the leak. The damp-rid is right where the leak occured in my truck

 

Nope …

keep looking