Workflow and tools question

I've done it with the truck on the ground but it takes some force in a terribly awkward position.

 

If you jack up the truck by the trailer hitch and let the axle drop they should fit no problem. Also did I read your coilovers are set to different heights? This is generally frowned upon due to the difference in spring preload and difference in characteristic of dampening between the two settings. The better way would have been to add a shim to the drooping side. FYI

 

Ah, I didnt realize that. I guess that could be changed out. Makes sense though.

So one of these should do the trick and also take back the 6112 to the #1 setting from the #3 setting it is at now.

https://shop-coachbuilder.myshopify...oilover-shim-provides-50-of-lift-tundra-99-06

*edit* So I have to take off the coilover, disassemble, change circlip setting and put back in, yes? Too bad that vendors selling these coilovers dont inform customers of the spacer option when discussing the circlip settings for assembly. I paid more for them to come assembled and I now I have to undo that. Lessons...

 

Truck was on the ground. I will try the trailer hitch as the point to jack it up.

 

how dumb is this?

 

Not preferable but you've still got the tires on so worst case you're probably getting a concussion.

 

yes! only had to disassemble my firepit

 

finished! (other than having to take off the drivers coilover, diassemble, change preload, insert coachbuilder shim, assemble, lol)



prolley gonna move that hose clamp it is messing with me ocd

 

Yes exactly what you need to do. You can rent a spring compressor for free from your local auto parts store. I cut some small pieces of fabric to put between the spring and the compressor so I didn’t damage the powder coat on the spring. They say don’t use air tools but I did you just have to make sure you compress both sides equally, like two turns one side, two turns the other and so on. Also turn down your gun to the lowest setting. Yes those CB shims are top notch. The lift they give is double the thickness of the shim. Ie., a quarter inch shim gives a half inch of lift and so on.

 

Some Autozone stores have this tool available as a loner. If you have one local that can get it I would use it over the other 2 piece screw type compressors.
https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...r/powerbuilt-strut-coil-compressor/537058_0_0

 

If only...I dont have an impact wrench nor air tools.

Some day fellas...

Thanks for the help. I plan to give a test run in a few hours. I need to be a bit careful as there are brand new rotors and pads on too. This truck should ride much better now.

 

So stoked for you! She’s gonna ride like a dream!

 

Hey all someone just wrote this message to me in another thread. Thoughts?

A shim under the collar for the spring is identical to "changing the preload". You change the compressed height of the spring when drooped. Unless you're talking about a shim between the shock bucket and coilover, which you wouldn't have to take the coilover apart for then. Regardless, I disagree that a shim is any better. Changing preload does not change the spring characteristics, the spring is compressed the same amount at ride height either way and the spring rate is the same either way. The ONLY thing that is different, is at full droop the preload force is slightly increased and I highly doubt you'll notice a difference considering 99% of applications adjust ride height/balance that way (again, this is the exact same method as putting a shim between the spring and collar which it sounds like what you intend to do).

 

Wait, what's up with the shim? What's wrong that you're trying to correct for?

And yes, the guy on that Wheelers thread is correct, preload is full of myths.

 

So at this point the bilstein is at setting #3 on driver and #1 on passenger. Above someone stated that a better method is to use a shim on the drivers side and set both coilovers to #1 .

 

Why are you setting them differently? Did you check ride height and see a big difference between driver and passenger?

 

I did not do that originally. Bilstein directions and Wheelers advised this. Im gonna go look now

 

I would start at the same level and see how they look. Or if you already set to #1 and #3, put it in the ground, drive around the block if everything is torque proper and then measure it.

These trucks don't get the "Taco Lean" nearly as bad as Tacoma's or newer Tundras. See what's what when it's on the ground and from there I would adjust on the perch if needed. Your truck will never sit dead level, youll get close but some guys agonize over this and it's a fruitless pursuit.

 

It is at #3 and #1, I did a very short ride earlier. I just measured from the ground to the fender on each side and they are within 1/4 inch or better. I was concerned that the preload difference messes with the ride characteristics. I mean that is what I dished out the $$ for, a great ride. I am willing to make small changes to eek out the best ride.

Also, I am at about 1/4 tank full for gas.

 

You won't feel a difference. The biggest misunderstanding for "pre load" is that making and adjustment to add height (like going from #1 to #3) will compress the spring and cause it to ride harsh.

The truth is that you are extending the shaft of the shock, not compressing the spring, and you won't feel a difference once the truck is on the ground.

 

Thanks. I am keeping it as is.

First ride: steering slop is gone. definitely firmer ride where the truck tracks straight over bumps now instead of getting thrown to the side along with the steering wheel. body roll still mostly there.

 

Your body roll will go away once the sway bar links are corrected.

 

I put in an order for the moog links and frame bushings. Turns out I am still under my budget so I went for a cheap rear away bar as well.

 

You got that stuff so far done quickly, good job. Don't forget to get your alignment done once your height is where you want it. Sway bars don'taffect alignment.

 

Reached out to coachbuilder. He says shim is the way to go (I think as I missed the call and he left a voicemail and I need to follow up.)

 

So OP the guy above is correct. The guy who messaged you. You are putting a shim between the shock bucket and cool over not under the collar which you don’t have to take the coil over apart for. So you don’t change the preload. YOU have to take apart your cool over, not because of the shim but because you are going to change the setting. I think the guy who messaged you was confused on your intent. It is possible to put a shim right above the spring as opposed to above the coil over, and that method would preload the spring and he is right. That’s not what you are doing.

 

A shim under the collar for the spring is identical to "changing the preload". (You are not putting it under the collar)
You change the compressed height of the spring when drooped. (You are not putting it under the collar) Unless you're talking about a shim between the shock bucket and coilover,(yes we are talking about this) which you wouldn't have to take the coilover apart for then. (Correct except you need to change the setting)
Regardless, I disagree that a shim is any better. Changing preload does not change the spring characteristics,(incorrect as he states below)
the spring is compressed the same amount at ride height either way and the spring rate is the same either way.(incorrect, when your shocks are at different settings one spring is compressed more)
The ONLY thing that is different, is at full droop the preload force is slightly increased (so is preload slightly different or is “the spring compressed either way” -it’s different, as he contradicts himself saying here)
and I highly doubt you'll notice a difference considering99% of applications adjust ride height/balance that way (again, thisis the exact same method as puttinga shim between the spring and collarwhich it sounds like what you intendto do).(you do not plan to do this)

 

I see what darkness is saying but extending one shock further gives you Less down travel on the side with the extended shock as you are eating up some of that down travel with the higher setting. Also your up travel on the shorter side is shorter as that side doesn’t have the shock extended out as far. With the shim you have the same travel on both sides and the shocks are at the same spacial height allowing for even travel in relation to your other suspension components.

 

Point is at different settings the characteristics of the coils change. Period, however slight or large that difference is can be debated.

 

Yeah, I think there probably is a valid argument that I will not notice either way, but I am looking to do this "right."