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Wiring rear bumper LEDs to a different switch?

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by JC303, Jun 13, 2017.

  1. Jun 13, 2017 at 4:51 PM
    #1
    JC303

    JC303 [OP] Same same but different

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    I need help. I purchased led lights for my rear bumper and it came with a wiring harness and a switch. I wanted to change the switch to the AOB Toyota switch from SDHQ. This way it is a nice clean look and no cutting of the dash is involved. The switch that came with the harness has 3 wires. Blue white and black and the Toyota switch has 4 wires. Blue black red and green. The first 2 pics are the switch that was included and the last is the Toyota switch. What do I do?
    IMG_4141.jpg IMG_4142.jpg IMG_4143.jpg
     
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  2. Jun 13, 2017 at 5:02 PM
    #2
    computeruser6

    computeruser6 Climate heretic

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    You only actually need the switch input and output wires to be connected. The other wires are to power the LED indicators in the switch. The manufacturer should have supplied a diagram with the switch stating which wire is which. Something to note is that switch is only rated for 3A so it can't supply much power. It's really only designed to actuate a relay so you should find another switch if you aren't interested in using a relay (which is only necessary for inductive loads).
     
  3. Jun 13, 2017 at 5:21 PM
    #3
    NewImprovedRon

    NewImprovedRon Hey! Get off my grass!

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    Yes, the additional wire is used in order to back light your switch when your headlights are turned on. To use it, you will need to tap into a neighboring switch's illumination circuit. Light blue wire on my 2015...
     
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  4. Jun 13, 2017 at 5:44 PM
    #4
    Eclipsed & Floating

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    Sorry to butt in but can you please explain why the relay is needed? I'm in the same boat and am wondering why the switch will not work as the one provided. I've already installed the provided switch and it looks clean. It's a different switch than OP showed. I was given a dressier switch but am reluctant to install it because I don't want to purchase anything else.

    Thanks for any guidance you may show me
     
  5. Jun 13, 2017 at 6:17 PM
    #5
    Flyinryank

    Flyinryank New Member

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    Is that why I blew out my aironboard switch? So a relay will prevent the same with a replacement switch?
     
  6. Jun 13, 2017 at 6:31 PM
    #6
    mdavis

    mdavis I need a beer.

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    Relays have two parts, the coil and the contacts, one connected to the power source (battery) and one connected to the load (LED). When the coil is energized, the contacts are closed and current begins to flow. The contacts are used to pass all the current to drive LED's.

    The coil takes little very little current to operate (usually milliamps) so this is what you want to switch with your switch. This prevents a large amount of current being switched and prevents arcing between the two poles.

    And @computeruser6 is absolutely correct on the toyota switch is designed to operate a relay and is only rated for low amperage. Just by looking at the first switch you can see the heavier guage wire than the Toyota one. This tells me there is no relay and it is switching all the current for the LED's.
     
  7. Jun 13, 2017 at 6:52 PM
    #7
    JC303

    JC303 [OP] Same same but different

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    There is a relay and I did figure it out. Thanks for all the direction. Trial and error helped as well. Pics coming soon.
     
  8. Jun 13, 2017 at 7:01 PM
    #8
    Eclipsed & Floating

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    GREAT RESPONSE!! Very helpful. So, can I assume that the higher guage (smaller wire) would be suitable in my current setup because it's not conducting a hugger amperage? But, that the Toyota switch is requiring a higher amperage so the lower guage higher wire and a relay is necessary?

    By the way, your explanation was great for someone that has little electrical knowledge.
     
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  9. Jun 13, 2017 at 7:21 PM
    #9
    computeruser6

    computeruser6 Climate heretic

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    I personally only bother to use relays for inductive loads (motors) since there is a starting surge of up to 6 to 8 times the normal running current. For something like LED lights it's not really necessary. I prefer to use a switch like this since it is rated for 20A. @Almaboy If you are using the AOB switch to directly power anything other than a very small load (<3A) the switch will fail and you should use a relay to pass the load power and the switch to simply actuate the relay.
     
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  10. Jun 13, 2017 at 7:21 PM
    #10
    mdavis

    mdavis I need a beer.

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    Can't really comment on your setup as I don't know what you have going on but as you can see in the OP's picture of the OE switch, it has what looks to me 22awg wire, this is only good for low amperage so assume it would be for energizing a coil.
     
  11. Jun 13, 2017 at 7:25 PM
    #11
    Eclipsed & Floating

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    Gotcha. Originally I stated I had the same dilemma, when I should have stated I have the exact same setup...just a different light being pushed. I should have been more specific. You answered my questions. Thank you sir!
     
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  12. Jun 13, 2017 at 7:28 PM
    #12
    Eclipsed & Floating

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    You know, it's been a while but I remember now, there was a relay built into the harness. At least that's what I assume to be the relay.
     
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  13. Jun 13, 2017 at 7:34 PM
    #13
    Eclipsed & Floating

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    Well, are you gonna tell us the solution?? C'mon man, you know how this works :cheers:
     
  14. Jun 13, 2017 at 8:37 PM
    #14
    Eclipsed & Floating

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    @JC303 where's your pics homie???

    Lights and all...we want em
     
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  15. Jun 13, 2017 at 8:39 PM
    #15
    JC303

    JC303 [OP] Same same but different

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    The harness has a relay included. I had to extend the harness to the battery and to the lights. To get the Toyota switch to work I had to hook up the Toyota
    Black to black. Toyota green to blue. Toyota blue and red goes to white. I did run the power directly to the battery so it will have constant power. I may change that so the lights are not lit up constantly. How much will this drain the battery as it will have Power even with the truck off?
     
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  16. Jun 13, 2017 at 8:40 PM
    #16
    Eclipsed & Floating

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    Can't you switch the lights off?
     
  17. Jun 13, 2017 at 8:42 PM
    #17
    JC303

    JC303 [OP] Same same but different

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    IMG_4145.jpg IMG_4149.jpg IMG_4148.jpg Teaser pics. More on my build tomorrow when I'm at work. I'll need something to do.
     
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  18. Jun 13, 2017 at 8:42 PM
    #18
    JC303

    JC303 [OP] Same same but different

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    The lights go off but the lights on the switch stay on.
     
  19. Jun 13, 2017 at 8:44 PM
    #19
    Eclipsed & Floating

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    Ahhhhhh!!! Come on. That was weak! Tag me when they're uploaded
     
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  20. Jun 13, 2017 at 8:46 PM
    #20
    computeruser6

    computeruser6 Climate heretic

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    I have added several switches with LED indicators in my truck that are always on and have had no problems with the battery draining. The electrical load is very small (about 3-4 mA according to my regulated DC power supply) and will take a very long time to drain the battery.
     
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  21. Jun 13, 2017 at 8:46 PM
    #21
    JC303

    JC303 [OP] Same same but different

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    You get to see it on the 24th. No pictures for you! :stirthepot:
     
  22. Jun 13, 2017 at 8:46 PM
    #22
    JC303

    JC303 [OP] Same same but different

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    Thanks this is what I was thinking.
     
  23. Jun 14, 2017 at 5:37 AM
    #23
    NewImprovedRon

    NewImprovedRon Hey! Get off my grass!

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    Why wouldn't you want the switch to become illuminated (backlit) when your headlights are turned on like the rest of your switches and shut off like the rest of your switches when the headlights are turned off? I don't see the benefit of having the switch backlit all the time. The switch I installed for my light bar backlights when the headlights are turned on and illuminates further when I activate the switch. Am I missing something here?
     
  24. Jun 14, 2017 at 5:50 AM
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    Eclipsed & Floating

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  25. Jun 14, 2017 at 6:29 AM
    #25
    JC303

    JC303 [OP] Same same but different

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    Ron, I may do this. I'm a newbie when it comes to electrical. This was my first attempt and I'm open to all suggestions. It seems like it may make more sense for me to wire into the headlights. I originally thought about wiring into the reverse lights but then decided I wanted a switch so I could have light anytime not just when I'm in reverse. So I decided to run straight to the battery. After completing the wiring I realized that the switch lights will be illuminated all the time.
     
  26. Jun 14, 2017 at 6:44 AM
    #26
    NewImprovedRon

    NewImprovedRon Hey! Get off my grass!

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    Ok, I think I understand. To get the switch to light up (backlit) when you turn on your headlights, you aren't wiring into your headlight circuit. You tap into the illumination circuit in a neighboring switch. I'm not sure which location you are placing your new switch but it looks like the left side panel. On my 2015, when I tapped into the illumination circuit, I tapped into either the cargo light switch or interior light switch illumination circuit. I can't remember which, but do remember that the wire color I used was the light blue wire going to that switch. Hopefully, the 2012 used the same color wire for the illumination circuit.

    Edit: I don't have a wiring diagram switch for 2012 models however, I do for 2007-2011 models and the Room Lamp Switch illumination wire is pink and the Cargo Light Switch is yellow. I am also attaching how I wired my light bar to the relay and switch. Keep in mind that I was wiring up a 180 watt light bar when you look at my wire gauges used, etc.

    You can always find the illumination light circuit by tapping a wire and checking with a test light when you get power when you turn the headlights on. Hope this helps...
     

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    Last edited: Jun 14, 2017
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  27. Jun 15, 2017 at 8:10 AM
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    Eclipsed & Floating

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    where are them lights, boy!!!!
     
  28. Jun 15, 2017 at 9:09 AM
    #28
    rons23

    rons23 Get The Led Out!!!

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    Yeah JC, plug them Hid' s in. Let's see the light show.
     
  29. Jun 15, 2017 at 11:23 AM
    #29
    JC303

    JC303 [OP] Same same but different

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    I started off thinking I was going to take pictures of the entire install. Maybe even do my first DIY. Then once it started taking me multiple nights I was only working on the truck, drinking beer and not taking pictures. Here are the few that I have. The kit I bought on amazon included the LED's and the wire harness with a switch and a relay. I used a grinder, drill and a jig saw to cut the holes in the bumper. My friend David helped with most of the install. I had to purchase my own hardware and extend the harness to the lights. Bought 21 feet of wire conduit, roll of electrical tape, more zip ties, 16g wire, heat shrink wire wrap and some connectors. Had to use a wire hanger to get the harness through the fire wall and also used it to run the wires under the truck.

    rear lights.jpg rear lights 2.jpg rear lights 3.jpg Rear bumper.jpg rear bumper 2.jpg bumper 3.jpg bumper 4.jpg bumper 2.jpg bumper 1.jpg
     
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