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Wiring help

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by icheng101, Dec 1, 2020.

  1. Dec 1, 2020 at 7:02 PM
    #1
    icheng101

    icheng101 [OP] New Member

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    Can anyone help me with wire locations. I have a 2010 RW and I am looking for reverse and cargo light wires (hopefully in the same vicinity). Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Dec 1, 2020 at 8:01 PM
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    RainMan_PNW

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    Whatcha wiring up? I can shoot you over wiring diagrams for the 2010 for those circuits, but they don’t specifically identify WHERE you’ll find them (other than locating the junction/connector locations). If no one has the answer before tomorrow I can do some info up.
     
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  3. Dec 2, 2020 at 4:00 AM
    #3
    icheng101

    icheng101 [OP] New Member

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    Installing puddle lights. Will be connecting them to both cargo for entry and reverse for a little more visibility for alignment. Will be installing diodes fir each power source.
     
  4. Dec 2, 2020 at 4:52 AM
    #4
    NewImprovedRon

    NewImprovedRon Hey! Get off my grass!

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    I believe you can find the cargo light wire underneath the driver side, rear passenger, scuff plate. The reverse wire can be found leading to your tail lights under the rear bumper.
     
  5. Dec 2, 2020 at 8:56 AM
    #5
    RainMan_PNW

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    EWD info from the 2010 Tundra attached.
    • Cargo Light circuit diagrams
    • Backup Light circuit diagrams
    • Wiring connections in Engine compartment (5.7L)
    • Wiring connections in Instrument area (Floor Shifter)
    • Wiring for CrewMax Body
    • Wiring for DoubleCab Body
    For the Back-up Light circuit, it's looking like you're going to find the wire in the cab at connector AJ2 (passenger kick panel) with a blue wire that is in position 3 in that connector. From there, it heads out through the firewall to RA1, and then into the main harness that routes under the truck to the back.

    For the cargo light, looks like if you want the power feeding the actual lamp (off the relay), then you want the brown wire coming off of connector DC (position 13) at the driver's side cabin fuse box. From there, it routes in the driver's side wire gutter and then up the driver's side C-Pillar to the TBL housing.
     

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  6. Dec 2, 2020 at 5:37 PM
    #6
    icheng101

    icheng101 [OP] New Member

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    This is awesome information. I really appreciate it.
     
  7. Dec 2, 2020 at 6:41 PM
    #7
    RainMan_PNW

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    No worries. Hope it helps. Back in 2015, I rewired my 2008 JBL audio system to take the 2010 version with Bluetooth streaming and USB (and GPS and SAT) using 100% factory parts, modules, and connectors, and at the same time did the auto-AC climate control upgrade too.

    I ended up buying the three day subscription to Toyota tech info and downloading every wiring diagram available for the 08 an 10, so that I could cross-compare them to figure out exactly what to buy, re-pin, etc. It was a lot of work, but I got very good at chasing down where things were and how they routed.
     
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  8. Dec 2, 2020 at 6:46 PM
    #8
    TheBeast

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    good stuff here
     
  9. Dec 14, 2020 at 4:21 PM
    #9
    Hightide

    Hightide Kinda’ new, but old

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    Good stuff.

    Would you happen to have the same info for a Gen 3 ?
     
  10. Dec 14, 2020 at 7:18 PM
    #10
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW 246 toothpicks...

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    I have a copy of the 2015 EWDs... need to dig it up. I haven’t pulled anything more recent, but other than the TSS stuff added in 2018, there probably wasn’t much changed for 2016. What year did they incorporate the brake controller?
     
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  11. Dec 14, 2020 at 8:33 PM
    #11
    Hightide

    Hightide Kinda’ new, but old

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    Lots of do-dads.

    I have a 2016. It has the brake controller.
     
  12. Dec 14, 2020 at 9:12 PM
    #12
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW 246 toothpicks...

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    10-4. That won’t have any impact on these two circuits.

    I’ll pull the EWDs in the morning when I get to work. I’d honestly bet they don’t differ much from the 2010, but you never know. Connector/junction locations should be pretty much the same.
     
  13. Dec 15, 2020 at 8:34 AM
    #13
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW 246 toothpicks...

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    Looks like the 2015 had the brake controller at least as an option, because the EWDs do have the Trailer Brake Control system in them (attached for bonus points).
    The rest of the same diagrams from the 2010 are posted here for the 2015 as well.
     

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  14. Dec 15, 2020 at 11:14 AM
    #14
    Hightide

    Hightide Kinda’ new, but old

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    Lots of do-dads.

    Wow!
    Thank you, brother!!:thumbsup:

    And bonus points!:101010::woot:
     
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  15. Dec 31, 2020 at 7:51 AM
    #15
    14srAKH

    14srAKH New Member

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    Hey man.
    I am wondering if you could look up the part number for the harness that plugs into the floor shifter on a 3rd gen tundra. The main harness.
     
  16. Dec 31, 2020 at 8:28 AM
    #16
    RainMan_PNW

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    Unfortunately, I don’t have a subscription to look up the part numbers - just have the EWDs stashed for a few specific years. I can, however, help guide you to where to find it. I’ll have to pull some stuff up on my computer
     
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  17. Dec 31, 2020 at 8:33 AM
    #17
    14srAKH

    14srAKH New Member

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    Okay I am trying to swap from column shifter to console shifter and what I believe to be everything except the harness and cable.
     
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  18. Dec 31, 2020 at 8:50 AM
    #18
    RainMan_PNW

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    Ok. I can post you both EWDs for those to compare wiring as well. Give me about 30 min
     
  19. Dec 31, 2020 at 10:16 AM
    #19
    RainMan_PNW

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    OK... Here's what I've got for EWDs on the floor shifter vs column shifter.

    Start with the 3UR Transmission document, page 18 shows the "Transmission Control Switch"
    There are two connectors listed - J24(A) and J25(B), and each wire hitting that symbol has a circle with an A or a B in it and there is a (*2) next to the A and a (*3) next to the B. Going back a page, you can see that *2 indicates Floor Shift, and *3 indicates Column shift, which MEANS that the Floor Shifter will use connector J24, while the Column Shifter uses connector J25. If a wire only has one letter, then it doesn't exist in the other configuration. And the number next to each wire is your pin (refer to the back of the EWD to see each connector shape and pin numbering, and remember that the pins are based on looking at the PLUG end of the connector, not the back where the wires enter it).
    upload_2020-12-31_9-40-16.jpg

    Following me so far? OK next we'll grab the Instrument Panel Routing document.
    Page 1 shows connectors on the Floor Shift cab configuration, and you'll find J24 near the bottom right of the tagged connectors. Follow the leader, and you'll see it's kind of under the center console.
    Page 5 shows connectors for the Column Shift cab configuration, and you'll find J25 on the top of the page. Follow that leader, and it's tucked in with all the other connectors to the right of the steering wheel.
    Keep going to Page 15, and you will see that the harness (greenish color) is called the "Instrument Panel Wire" and you'll also see that it is the primary harness that pretty much hits EVERYTHING in the dashboard. Page 22 shows the same thing and the same name for the column shift option.
    upload_2020-12-31_9-50-17.jpg

    Now, since J24 is our connector hitting the FLOOR SHIFT switch/controller, I also searched the entire EWD set for any other place the J24 connector shows up (to catch each wire) you might need. That's where the Illumination Taillight EWD comes in (showing the wires that light up the different gears in your floor shifter module), as well as the Shift Lock Floor EWD. Similarly, the J25 connector shows up in the Shift Lock Column EWD (but not in the Illumination Taillight one).

    At this point, you are armed with every bit of information you need to run wires to your floor shifter in place of the column shifter. One option would be to find a mating plug for J25, and a new plug for J24, along with the necessary pins and make up your own harness to plug into one and route to the other. OR, you can cut/splice the wires that are at J25 and route them to a new connector for J24 (you'll not be able to go back to a column shifter at that point...but I'm guessing based on the amount of parts you need to make this switch already, you don't ever plan on that). Just get the new wires all run to the right pin locations.

    I can tell you from personal experience (only because I've done other wiring that use that same connector shape), that the J24 connector is Toyota part number 90980-12551 (that's the connector only). It is a TE-Connectivity or similar 0.025" pitch connector. One source of this (along with the pins for it) is Eastern Beaver. Buy extra pins, because they are easy to mess up. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/NH-025/nh-025.html

    ETA: I would be willing to bet that the J25 connector is a 0.040" pitch connector (14-pin) like the ones here - so that would be an option to get a plug-in connector to match up with the existing column shift to simply connections.
    http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/040_Connectors/040_connectors.html

    If you really want to go after the whole harness, go to parts.toyota.com. Put in your make (Tundra) and Year, but nothing else. Then search keyword "Instrument Panel Wire" and start checking the results. There are lots that start with part number 82141 and price starting around $1900 (that's MSRP). Hit one of those to go to the details page (doesn't matter which one) and then hit "Full Diagram" on the image. This will open in a new page, and you can then choose "View More Images" to see more parts diagrams. Grabbing one that shows the dashboard with a floor shifter, we can then get the actual wiring harness that you need (which will depend on the year and trim level). For a 2014-2015, it's looking like 82141-0C350 MIGHT be the right one...at an MSRP just over $2300.

    https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2015_Tundra/63511880__6733940/WIRING--CLAMP/841430-8202.html

    Hope that helps.
     

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    Last edited: Dec 31, 2020
  20. Dec 31, 2020 at 10:49 AM
    #20
    TONKA TUNDRA

    TONKA TUNDRA HULK SMASH!!

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    Great info! Thank you sir! Adding some lights to my bed and LEER topper soon and this is super helpful!

    :bowdown: :cheers:
     
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  21. Dec 31, 2020 at 11:01 AM
    #21
    14srAKH

    14srAKH New Member

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    Holy crap.
    A wealth of information. Thank you so much. I'll need to screen shot all of that and look into all the stuff you said about different options. Again thank you.
     
  22. Dec 31, 2020 at 11:10 AM
    #22
    RainMan_PNW

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    Download those PDFs and print them out, then spend time comparing Column to Floor to see what pins go where.
    The relocation of the shifter connection should be pretty easy really, including adding illumination (simply tapping off of another illumination lead nearby). The only thing I didn't study closely is the differences in the Shift Lock and making sure that is correctly configured, though it looks like the floor shifter Shift Lock is more simply (probably due to being integrated into the actual shift unit).

    I don't have time right now, but might have a chance later to dig into it a little bit more and offer a more detailed explanation of how to make up a harness that will get you from Column to Floor without spending $2k on a wiring harness that would have to replace the entire dash to get to.
     
  23. Dec 31, 2020 at 11:27 AM
    #23
    14srAKH

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    Dude ur awesome. I appreciate it a lot man.
     
  24. Dec 31, 2020 at 5:04 PM
    #24
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW 246 toothpicks...

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    First, I posted an incomplete EWD for the Illumination. The attached includes the missing pages.

    Digging into the Shift Lock circuitry a bit, and things get a little more complicated.

    The Column Shift has the Shift Lock ECU located over behind the glove box with connector J30 (another 14 pin connector), and the harness has wires between the Transmission Control Switch and the ECU (which is why the column shifter needs more pins in the J25 connector). Further, the Key Interlock Solenoid is built into the Transmission Control Switch.

    The Floor Shift has the Shift Lock ECU located within the shifter assembly with connector J27 (another 8 pin connector). Some of the controls (like the actual shift-lock solenoid) are internal to the shifter assembly, so less wires are needed to run around the truck. However, the Key Interlock Solenoid is SEPARATE (connector J21, a 2-pin connector) and is located up where the column shifter is located in the other model.

    I created the second attached PDF to show the different plugs, what pins should be in them, and what each wire does. This information was pulled from the various EWDs, and compares the Floor to the Column Shift.

    It looks to me like you'll need to:
    • Obtain a Key Interlock Solenoid for a Floor Shift truck (I believe this is built into the steering column directly in the ignition housing, while on the column shifter that whole assembly is all in one with the shifter) - this is what keeps you from turning the key all the way off and pulling it out when the truck is in gear.
    • Track down the appropriate 2-pin connector (and pins) to plug into that solenoid (connector J21), and route one wire from that connector (pin 1) down to the ECU connector J27 (pin 5). The other pin in the key interlock gets routed to a convenient ground.
    • Buy two 8-pin connectors (from my previous post) with pins to connect to either side of the floor shifter module.
    • At the old J25 connector, cut and splice the following wires and extend then down to J24 connector at the rear of the shifter
      • Pin 4 (J25) now goes to Pin 1 (J24)
      • Pin 5 (J25) now goes to Pin 2 (J24)
      • Pin 6 (J25) now goes to Pin 3 (J24)
      • Pin 11 (J25) now goes to Pin 5 (J24)
      • Pin 13 (J25 now goes to Pin 7 (J24)
    • Tap into a convenient button to get ILL+ and ILL- and route those to the J24 connector (pins 4 and 8)
    • From the J30 connector at the original control ECU, cut and splice the following wires and route to the new ECU connector J27
      • Pin 4 (J30) now goes to Pin 8 (J27)
      • Pin 3 (J30) now goes to Pin 6 (J27)
      • Pin 13 (J30) now goes to Pin 4 (J27)
      • Pin 10 (J30) now goes to Pin 1 (J27)
    • Anything else you didn't use, you shouldn't need...but don't toss it just in case. The old Shift Lock ECU can be removed from the truck (or at least unplugged).
    I THINK that will get you all hooked up!
     

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  25. Jan 13, 2021 at 12:06 PM
    #25
    TRD_FanMan

    TRD_FanMan New Member

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    Yeah, that J27 (Shift Lock Control ECU) wiring diagram was exactly what I was looking for so I can create a kill-switch to prevent theft! I wasn't sure which wire to cut until I came across your pdf. Thank you!!
     
  26. Jan 13, 2021 at 12:38 PM
    #26
    TRD_FanMan

    TRD_FanMan New Member

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    Just to be clear (for myself), it's pin #8 that I want to put to a kill-switch?

    upload_2021-1-13_15-38-7.jpg
     
  27. Jan 13, 2021 at 1:00 PM
    #27
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW 246 toothpicks...

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    Not 100% sure I'm following what you're trying to do...just kill power to the shift lock control? Seems that the key immobilizer system and other anti-theft systems would already be doing a lot of the lifting, and killing power to the shift lock solenoid can easily be overcome by manually pushing in on the over-ride release located just in front of the shift lever.

    I also want to caution that for a 2021 you'll want to refer to the 2021 EWDs because the addition of the smart key has made some wiring changes to the system. If you have a smart key, you'll find the ECU connector is now a 12-pin and set up differently.
     
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  28. Jan 13, 2021 at 1:22 PM
    #28
    TRD_FanMan

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    I noticed that when I unplugged J27 connector, the shifter was locked, even if the engine was started. That's perfect and easy for me to get to for adding a kill/throw switch. I was just curious what pin/wire I would need to cut so I can add a 2-way on/off switch to allow/disallow shifting into gear. Although, I did not realize there was an override release... gah. I dunno... perhaps I'll disable that override release <shrugs>
     
  29. Jan 13, 2021 at 1:30 PM
    #29
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW 246 toothpicks...

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    Do you have smart key? If so, you should be seeing a 12-pin plug (it's actually J193 now). If you don't have a smart key, then it would still be J27. The pin shows as pink in both cases, but position 12 if you have the 12-pin plug.

    If you have that connector unplugged but the engine running, try pushing down on the manual lock release and see if it will let you shift out of park. You need a screw driver or similar to push it down, but it's real easy to do - it's how you shift the vehicle out of park if you have it turned off and need to move the shifter (in the Gen 2, it was about the only way to remove the shifter trim).

    Just seems that if a thief is able to get your truck started by getting past the immobilizer and transponder chips and all that, they've probably got the skills and knowledge to pop the manual shift lock button and be gone. :notsure: :mudding:
     
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  30. Jan 13, 2021 at 1:47 PM
    #30
    TRD_FanMan

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    Yes, you were absolutely right, it is 12-pin:

    upload_2021-1-13_16-41-11.jpg

    And this is my key fob:

    upload_2021-1-13_16-41-47.jpg

    which I believe is a "smart key"?

    You're also correct that a simple flat-head screwdriver would release the shift lock and allow shifting in any circumstance. However I'm planning to install a 1/2"x1/2" square metal plate (about 1mm to 2mm in thickness) to cover that override access slot. In order then to get to it, one would have to remove the center console, not something I believe a thief would really mess with provided they were in a hurry or nervous.

    However, it'd be the "pink" wire (IG) to interrupt (pin #12)?
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2021

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