Window Trim Issue

@PappaGrizz I think @NewImprovedRon means to park near a wall, and to use a couple of 1"X2" boards with the right angles on the end to wedge against the trim and the wall to hold the trim tight against the door. Maybe one flat horizontally at the top of the corner, one vertical at the back edge of the corner. (Straighten me out @NewImprovedRon if I've got the details all wrong.) Getting the angles on the board ends right is left with the OP.

He has a point about the duct tape...it's extremely difficult to react the tendency of the trim to lift (perpendicular to the door) by applying force with tape to the door (parallel with the trim). Maybe that's why none of my fix attempts ever worked!

As a previous post suggested, weatherstrip adhesive IS a contact cement. That's why you have to carefully pre-fit a weatherstrip and mark it in several places before the first real "take", because you won't get another try...and you'll need a new weatherstrip. In this case, you WILL get some help from that characteristic. However...I guarantee that with the constant tendency of that trim to lift, it will not stay completely flat unless something holds it in place until the adhesive fully sets up.

 

I think he’s talking about one of these. I use one in the bed of my truck to keep a load positioned without strapping it down. The ends are slightly adjustable so they wobble. They also are ratcheting, so you could put just the right amount of tension on it without doing damage. Pretty simple and ingenious idea.

 

Oh...hell..."adjustable load lock" is a real thing. I thought "adjustable load lock" was all part of the con...he coulda' used "malwicket" or "grizeldig" and it would have been the same for me.

Edit: Sorry, @NewImprovedRon, I really wasn't making fun of you...I'm making fun of me for being so under-informed.

 

Hahahahaha The sarcasm can be pretty strong around here. Sometimes it’s hard to tell. But Ron’s user name used to be RowdyRon. Now he’s new and improved LOL. And it shows. We tend to go off topic or make jokes after it seems the question has been answered. But not always! Similar to having a group of you and your friends get together around a campfire, ask a serious question and see how long it takes to get it a serious answer. One friend is always going to be trying to make another friend laugh. But at the end of the night it will be answered one way or another.

 

You're right, ya know. I already tried the tape. Didn't work. Just funnin' with ya, brother.

After all, we infantry types are very fond of our armor brothers.

 

I like it. Helping people first is the priority, but having fun is important too. Hopefully @PapaGrizz will be smiling too if he gets something that works.

@PapaGrizz One more "best effort" for you: Use a 2"-3" C-clamp with two small squares of plywood, one outside flat on the trim corner, and other inside bridging from the top of the window frame corner to the rear of the window frame. DO NOT put any load on the glass.

Edit: Throwing rocks with precision not required.

 

That’s the exact tool I was thinking of with Ron’s explanation.

 

My truck as wel

 

FIXED!

 

Dayum! Haha all great tips! Lemme try rolling the truck on its side first, then maybe the c-clamps

 

Actually, today that might really be the way it is!

 

3M adhesive, the contact type, makes an almost instantaneous bond. I doubt you'll get any creep or movement if you RTFM and follow the directions... Affixing something with properly applied contact cement is usually a one-shot per placement deal.

You could always use a c-clamp if you really feel the need to!

hth,
B

 

No one has recommended "3M adhesive, the contact type" per se.

What was recommended was this:

$11 3M Black Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive, 08008, 5 fl oz, 1 Per Pack

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08008-Black-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B00063X38M?th=1&psc=1
If you've used it before, you know what it does, and you know it's limitations. It IS a contact type adhesive, and OP will have no problem making a good part of his separated trim sticky from hell...getting the edges to lay flat after they've curled up is going to be another matter. Reading the directions before use is always good advice.

If you're thinking of the multiple versions of spray adhesive 3M sells, they will be worthless for this application. In fact, they are pretty much worthless for any automotive application. I tried that Super 77 Multipurpose for carpet installation...didn't hold maybe a week. Maybe I needed one of those air-driven hose sprayers upholsterers use.

 

per the usage instructions for the

$11 3m 08008 , 5 fl oz, 1 Per Pack

3m 08008 black

"Apply a thin uniform coat of adhesive on each surface. Allow adhesive to dry until tacky but will not transfer to your knuckle when touched. Assemble materials with sufficient pressure to ensure complete contact. Full cure may take as long as 24 hours at 70°F"

i.e. this is a CONTACT type of cement and rules for using and applying CONTACT cement should be adhered to, to ensure good...adherence.

Properly applied, this product will not makes parts sticky as hell as when properly applied, the parts won't be able to separate again.

I've used this specific product and was explaining that the number 1 way to make your parts separate and be sticky as hell is to not adhere to proper contact cement application directions. Don't be that guy with the sticky mess...

hth,
B

 

Well, there you go @PapaGrizz. Who can argue with such self-assured, self-confident reading skill as that? Paint her up, wait until adhesive "won't transfer to your knuckle", and then stick'er down and walk away. Q.E.D. Not my truck...85 percent perfection works for me.

 

True that - we'll see what happens!

 

Got to admit...the last conventional war engagement with Saddam's Republican Guards...armor was overrunning enemy positions faster than the grunts could secure them. Only thing holding armor back was the fuel trucks couldn't keep up. USA!

 

Just here to help

B

 

Didn't think you did and don't recall quoting you. but if I did, I apologize.
B

 

My 18 did the same I used goof off to remove the old 3m tape and replaced it. So far so good

 

Ah! I was pointing out that properly applied trim contact cement would not need any external fixating.

B

 

The trim adhesive @JohnLakeman suggested came in today. Went ahead and prepped the surface with alcohol, then applied to the truck and trim, waited a bit then pressed it together. Put painters tape to hold it in place and it seems OK so far. I'll unmask and give an update tomorrow.

 

PAINTER'S TAPE?!!! The blue stuff??

Well, I hope you read the directions on the roll for reassurance. That crap is designed to be easy to remove without damaging the surface or leaving any trace...i.e. hardly any adhesive. You'll probably go out this morning and find it laying on the ground, or curled up on both ends to the center.

I am continually running product evaluations. I still buy that blue tape because it's easy to use in apps with low risk of failure (your trim does not fall into this category), AND IT's CHEAP. Real automotive painting masking tape does not release easy, but it costs an arm and a leg, and you can't get it at home stores.

 

Use the 3M Automotive Adhesion Promoter: swipe the applicator across the area that needs to be prepped. Allow to dry for approximately 30-90 seconds before applying your tape; be sure the surface is dry before applying adhesive product as improper bonding can occur then use the 3M Super Strong Automotive Attachment Tape.

 

Hahaha you didn’t have pinpoint accuracy!

 

THAT is a great idea!!!...If you woulda' posted it yesterday.

You're late to the party. Are you trying to put @PapaGrizz into an apoplectic rage? We've already collectively fooled him into using "glue from hell" to stick his trim down, and then just walking away. Too late now...that trim "is what it is", for better or worse, and IT IS not moving, "lick and a promise" painter's tape not withstanding. (Only kidding, @PapaGrizz. You'll never notice it...it's on the passenger side.)

 

No problems here bud.

 

My 14 had the top of the cab striping come off, driving home from Bend I heard something thumping on the top of the cab. Dealer fixed and it was fine. My 18 sport had the same problem and the the. The drivers door trim started coming off.

3m fixed that problem.

 

And done-zo! Just peeled the blue painters tape to find it had worked perfectly! Thanks for all the help gents!