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Whine/Howl Only During Acceleration - Ideas?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Tom Banjo, Aug 1, 2019.

  1. Aug 1, 2019 at 6:52 PM
    #1
    Tom Banjo

    Tom Banjo [OP] New Member

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    New Member here but not new to Tundras. 2000 Limited AC 4x4 160,000 miles. I've got a noise that I can't seem to pinpoint and I'd like some help before I continue to replace parts, etc. Sorry if this is too long but I want to give as much info as I can. I've searched the forums and have seen a similar post or 2 but I'm not sure if my issue is the same or not.

    I've got a whine that starts at about 20-25 MPH and gradually increases in pitch as I continue to accelerate. The noise is loud enough to hear over the radio. When I let off of the gas, the noise stops immediately and completely until I place my foot back on the pedal and continue accelerating, then picks up where it left off. The noise does not occur if I'm sitting still and rev the engine. No change whether I'm turning or going straight, only when I accelerate. The truck still shifts normally and the pitch does not change when the transmission cycles through each gear.

    Here's what's been done so far:

    - New alternator - old one failed, so replaced hoping it was the culprit. No dice.
    - Greased all recommended points on the driveline - No change.
    - Changed transfer case oil - looked/smelled normal - no shavings, etc. Same noise.
    - 4wd actuator approx 5000 miles ago - old one failed.
    - Barnes4wd differential cover welded on approx 5000 miles ago due to rusty, leaky pumpkin.
    - Timing belt approx 50,000 miles ago.

    No power steering leaks noted. Transmission fluid normal color/level. Recent oil change.

    I do notice some play in the carrier bearing so that's ordered and is next on the list. Could that be it? Wheel bearing? Pinion bearing? Torque converter?

    Just today I noticed that if I'm in 4 wheel drive, the whine does NOT seem to go away when I lift my foot off the gas - it persists as I'm coasting until I take it out of 4 wheel drive, then it will stop and restart like before when I hit the gas again. Something amiss with the transfer case?

    This one has got me stumped.
     
  2. Aug 1, 2019 at 6:57 PM
    #2
    BIGUGLY

    BIGUGLY I the SheepDog. I have the capacity for Violence.

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    Tahoe I had ruined a pinion bearing and did the same thing. I could make it whine if I manipulated the throttle.
     
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  3. Aug 1, 2019 at 7:02 PM
    #3
    Tom Banjo

    Tom Banjo [OP] New Member

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    Yep. If I pump the throttle while coasting it will whine-stop-whine-stop etc. The pinion bearing was one of my initial concerns. Is a vehicle safe to drive with a failing pinion bearing? DIY job? I'm pretty handy but don't wanna bite off more than i can chew.
     
  4. Aug 1, 2019 at 7:09 PM
    #4
    Filthyphil

    Filthyphil New Member

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    Carrier bearing made that same sound on my old Tacoma, squirt some WD-40 in the rubber and see if it goes away.
     
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  5. Aug 1, 2019 at 7:13 PM
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    Tom Banjo

    Tom Banjo [OP] New Member

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    Will definitely try that - I know the carrier bearing is in need of replacing judging by the rust and driveshaft movement.

    I should also mention I don't have any play whatsoever where the prop shaft enters the differential.
     
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  6. Aug 1, 2019 at 8:22 PM
    #6
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    Exhaust.

    Yeah, It sounds strange but I have this exact issue on a subaru of mine. I replaced all kinds of things trying to hunt it down. For a long time I thought it was a wheel bearing and replaced all of them with no effect. Finally figured it when I figured out I could reproduce it by stomping on the gas when not moving and had a friend listen until he could find it. It came straight our of the muffler.

    EDIT....I see now you can effect it by being in 4WD....that would rule out my theory....
     
  7. Aug 4, 2019 at 2:56 PM
    #7
    lsaami

    lsaami Let ‘er buck

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    needle bearings in the front Diff?
     
  8. Aug 4, 2019 at 4:36 PM
    #8
    Tom Banjo

    Tom Banjo [OP] New Member

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    Changed out the carrier bearing today - took a lot longer than expected as one of the bolts holding the bearing to the truck was a rusted disaster. Got it done, took it for a drive, and...the noise is still there.

    Starting to think it's a either a wheel bearing or the pinion bearing, neither of which I'm likely able to tackle myself. Starting to hate this darn truck.
     
  9. Aug 4, 2019 at 4:39 PM
    #9
    Tom Banjo

    Tom Banjo [OP] New Member

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    I have though about the exhaust because there is definite rust and some pinhole leak(s) around the flanges. Wouldn't I be able to hear this while in park and increasing rpm? I only hear the noise while accelerating.
     
  10. Aug 4, 2019 at 4:41 PM
    #10
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    Likely the pinion. A wheel bearing typically will not change with throttle input but instead speed increase and turns
     
  11. Aug 4, 2019 at 4:41 PM
    #11
    Tom Banjo

    Tom Banjo [OP] New Member

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    Would I hear noise when in 2wd if this were the issue? Guess I could take off the front driveshaft and see if it goes away.
     
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  12. Aug 4, 2019 at 4:44 PM
    #12
    Tom Banjo

    Tom Banjo [OP] New Member

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    Yeah I agree. Wonder what a replacement is gonna cost me. :crapstorm:
     
  13. Aug 4, 2019 at 4:55 PM
    #13
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    Labors up there. I’d recommend a diff specialist to do... they usually will be cheaper than a regular shop
     
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  14. Aug 4, 2019 at 5:25 PM
    #14
    lsaami

    lsaami Let ‘er buck

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    I believe so because the front CV axles are always turning with the wheels.
     
  15. Aug 4, 2019 at 6:39 PM
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    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    "Wouldn't I be able to hear this while in park and increasing rpm? I only hear the noise while accelerating."

    In my case, it was only during violent acceleration when in park, but not at high RPM, only while increasing the RPM and only for a half second as it jumped from idle to 3-4k.

    I even figured out why.

    The whistle/warbly screech sound only happens when there is a certain amount of pressure in the exhaust. Pressure caused by exhaust by products. Your engine only burns as much gas as it needs to. There is a huge difference between the gas it needs to burn to hold 4K rpm in park, than it does to hold 4K rpm while driving. Even though the RPM is the same, the air pressure inside the exhaust system is very different.

    Stomping on the pedal in park would cause the engine to momentarily burn enough fuel to increase the pressure enough to make the sound, but it would go away instantly since there was very little effort needed to hold high RPM in park.

    I also found it would make the sound in lower gears, going up a steep hill at highway speeds...for the same reason. It wasn't really linked to acceleration, but in fact, the amount of gas being burned.
     
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  16. Aug 4, 2019 at 6:59 PM
    #16
    Twinky

    Twinky Keep the shinny side up!

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    A wheel bearings, in my experience, symptoms have always been consistent and easy to diagnose. There's always exception of course but I think you can rule it out.

    The symptom is apparent and triggered when the gas pedal is pressed.

    If you've already mentioned or I missed it, my apologises.

    I would start by inspecting the intake and throttle body for anything obvious. Leaves, bad hose, ext...
     
  17. Aug 15, 2019 at 6:43 PM
    #17
    Tom Banjo

    Tom Banjo [OP] New Member

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    Just thought I'd update.

    Finally got a chance to run by the mechanic today and once up on the lift, we confirmed the noise is originating from the differential. I'm hoping it's just bearing(s) but in case the whole diff is now a turd, isn't it possible to swap in a used 3rd member from a few different years? Figured I might as well upgrade to an LSD which I believe was an option on later year 1st gens. Should just swap in correct? Wondering if I could do this myself...
     
  18. Aug 15, 2019 at 8:38 PM
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    Filthyphil

    Filthyphil New Member

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    As long as the gear ratio is the same as your front diff you should be good to go as far as I know.
     
  19. Aug 16, 2019 at 9:57 AM
    #19
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    The whole 3rd is replaceable, just need to make sure you get the same gear ratio as your front diff
     
  20. Jan 11, 2021 at 1:59 PM
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    Martineddy77

    Martineddy77 New Member

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  21. Jan 11, 2021 at 5:46 PM
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    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    ^ this.
     

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