Which HU features u have, wish u had, absolutely hate?

This thread might be of more interest to those who are still shopping for a radio upgrade, but will benefit from other FGT experiences, so input fr/recent upgraders appreciated. So far, the price range of my greivances and positive claims, are of below $700 models, but posts of any HU cost-brand-model are welcomed.

Ok, I started thinking Im just expressing my 'old-man' grievances, but after considerable research [and b/c im a 'cheap-bisterd'] and looking/handling the gear at local "b-by" or 'indie-shops', over past few months, I concluded the following as my personal GO/NO-GO of HU features. [I dont have SWC, so I'm resigned to a HHeld Remote, but thats a whole separate universe.]

I decided I absolutely hate VOL controls requiring 'one press at a time' for louder above a number threshold. I could never live w/that.
Related: Of HU's lve actually seen, Sony was the fastest VOL changer [continuous + Press], but Pioneer had the biggest VOL Scale [no doubt as to what youre changing].

Heres another: On Radio source [likely any source], some HU's require you navigate more than 1 key or link for SQ changes. Related: fr/my hands on, some Pioneer and Alpine have a single link shortcut to SQ [major convenient].
Distantly related: Something I havnt seen on any HU in this cost category [ and would be VERY convenient]: Source Based EQ settings memory. IE: Depending on source, your saved EQ's you prefer for FM [music] vs. AM [talk radio] vs. USB or stored music via BT. Seems to me each of those sources have their individual best SQ setting. Some maybe due to type of music, or some based on broadcast vs. recorded. My '20 Corolla HB HU retains different TREB/MID/BASS/BAL/FADR for each source. [but, no volume leveler for any source.?]

One more: AFAIK, Alpine is only one w/ambient 'light sensor' for Auto-DIM. [Major-Major convenient].
Related: Most HUs Ive looked at make you navigate multi pages to Settings>Display>BRIGHT/DIM> On,Off,HeadlightSwitched, or leave it on BRIGHT [so you can wear shades at night]. Absolutely hate headlight switching. Its not often, but major inconvenient when you get auto Headlight-DIMmed on bright rain/snow days when 'Headlights ON' is regualtion. Then how do you resolve out a Dimmed screen?

Because new HU's rarely satisfy all the basics under a certain cost, hoping this will be informative anyone planning upgrade or swap, to hear of manufacturer feature omissions or inclusions that are well done, poorly done to absolute annoyances [but I'll live with it].
Anyway, post your observations, warnings or kudos about your HU others might benefit hearing about.

 

Related to the ambient light sensor complaint you have. I have a pos BOSS head unit I purchased from Crutchfield a couple of years ago. It works fine for my needs, but one feature I loathe is the screen's reflectivity in the daytime, which is exacerbated by the flat, perpendicular angle of our stereo's location in the center dash bezel. In full sunlight I can't see hardly anything. So if you're looking at head units and see lots of people complaining in reviews about "I can't see the screen in the daytime," etc., don't buy it. In fact I'm about to see if there's a screen cover or some solution for this....

 

Thx @JasonC. my complaint is lack of ambient light sensor, which I think you're referring to; it appears theyre nearly non-existent unless its certain Alpines, or like my generic '20 corolla. BTW: If I could transplant that system into my FGT, I'd be elated; it covers all basics very well.
However, I agree about day time visibility deficiency of the 7" universe.

 

I recently had a Kenwood HU installed in my '05. I have the same visibility issue as others. But it appears a bigger mistake was not spending an additional $100 to have wireless CarPlay. The installer routed the USB wire to the glove box, which appears to be causing an issue with the heater/AC controls. When I flip the control from defrost to "blow in your face," there is definitely some interference. Hoping it's easily resolved with an appointment next week, but sure wish I had just spent the extra $100.

 

Very easy to drop that cable straight down and route out around the center console...

Wireless CarPlay unfortunately uses wifi, and I have yet to find a system that doesn't have at least ¼-second lag on keypresses, some as bad as 2 seconds delay when you tap a key. It can be aggravating as hell. No delay with direct wire. Sometimes I don't notice it, other times it's really palpably annoying as hell.

 

Thanks Shifty. I mentioned to the install guy that they had added an iPod cable to the OEM HU about 15 years ago and routed the cable straight down to the center console. Didn't make sense that they routed the USB for the new HU to the glove box. He tried to give me some explanation, but I told him I knew a wire could be routed straight down...they did it 15 years ago. Glad to have your confirmation .

 

IDK to a certainty, but if the current wave of 7" or even 9" HU screens were of same level of quality as our phones or even some tablets, HU prices would be at least $1-2 hundred more, or even more than that. Unfortunately for us, they [electronics industry] know exactly the economics/buyer cost thresholds of this market and their margin. I havent looked at the very top end gear, as in super-amoled displays [if they exist] but im also not remotely interested in dropping $2g+ in order to have good screen visibility under all conditions. It may take a couple years, but its got to get better than current offerings and hopefully for not much more $s.
OTOH, its damn near offensive what some builders currently put out; almost a gauranteed driver safety obstacle- but I digress...
I guess we make our choices and try to find the best recipe for "chicken-salad", if you get the analogy...

Wireless CP/AA, for me, not a game changer. Like another post said: I likely need a charge anyway and wired is still quicker in near all regards. Granted, for some of us, wireless may have wired beat, but I still try to limit access to my data logger [cell device] to a minimum [paranoid conspiracy?].

@Double DC , I guess that 'installer' has never heard of EMF from electric motors [hvac fan?].

 

I know it's possible because I've done it. It's how I installed a flush-mount hidden USB port in my truck for CarPlay and firmware updates: https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-add-flush-mount-usb-aux-port-in-center-console.70236/

You may have a slightly different console than I do because you have the DC and I have an AC. However, you'll see in reply #12 of that thread in @artsr2002 (man I hope he's OK, haven't seen him in a minute!) reply #12, how folks with the other center console are managing it. And see reply #18 for a link to the product Art used on his console to get that clean, fresh look.

Plenty of people route the cable down there. And you don't need an installer to do the work for you. It's like 5 screws to pop the center dash face off, and from there you can run the wire yourself.

 

I bought this wireless CarPlay/AndroidAuto wireless adapter for my Atoto F7 receiver 10inch and it works with essentially zero lag. I got on sale for $15. I prefer my current wired Atoto set-up to the wireless Atoto headunit because of actual physical tactile buttons. Anyway, if there was lag that would suck but my personal experience has been great. I don't think that the wireless adapter that I purchased is better or preferred over other ones but it has worked for me.

https://a.co/d/4nL0gix


I'll add, that my wife has a headunit with wireless CarPlay built-in but it would not connect automatically to her phone. I bought her a wireless adapter and it now connects automatically.

 

@G unit3000 : is your AtotoF7 screen viz bright enough during daylight, w/shades on?
Also, what did you have before it?

 

Most of the time, I can see the screen fine even with shades. I just posted on another thread about getting the illumination/dimming function to work on the headunit. Right now, I have dark/night mode on all the time for Android Auto and there have been times when the screen is difficult to see due to the sun or reflections washing it out. See photo below.
I like this current Atoto F7 with wired AA/CP because of the real buttons. I've also got another 10in Atoto F7 receiver with built-in wireless AA/CP and a generic 10in Android headunit. I might switch over to the the Android headunit soon.

 

@G unit3000 ,..is last pic a 9 or 10"?...ever have issues with knuckle clearance betwn the shift lever and edge of HU? Looks close.

 

It's an Atoto F7 g210pe which has a 10.1 inch screen. There is plenty of clearance with the shifter lever and the air vents are minimally blocked.

 

I see on their [atoto] website theyre claiming 'auto-dimming'; presuming they mean headlight switched?
Also seeing on one of the 8 inch models:
"..25w RMS/ 4 Ω @ 14.4 V, 1 kHz, THD 10 %..".
Isnt 10% ten times the standard commonly reported?

My interest level has spiked a bit, given this threads' discussed 'big5' deficiencies. The 'all too common' lack of display visibility complaint has me considering a larger screen install. Of course, then we drift into the >$1000 [if fr/big5] category.