What Size Tires do you have? 1ST GENS ONLY!

It’s a shitshow here, but in a “chaotic good” sort of way. Everyone is cool, fun, but also are usually interested in helping fellow enthusiasts….

 

It's time for tires again, lots of tread, but quite cracked and 10 years old now. I'm running Bridgestone Duelers 265/70-16, that's what came on it new. I can still get them, but I wonder if I can do better, these perform okay with the light duty I put the truck through, towing and hauling a little.

 

What you gonna do with em after you meet @KNABORES

 

Anyone have any tire recommendations for the stock 17in rims on an '06? Want something that inflates to at least 50 PSI for peace of mind while hauling my camper. Have my eye on Falken Wildpeak AT/4W and the Mickey Thompson Baja Boss. More or less the same price. What do you guys think?

 

After running Wildpeak AT3W and my Mickey Baja Legend EXP, I'll probably never give Wildpeaks another opportunity.

 

I have E rated open country AT3s. STIFF, but really good tires so far for me and not very heavy for what they are. If you want solid under pressure, these’ll do the trick.

 

Might see if I can shove in the daughter's sequoia.

Oh, and I'll have to change my vote to 34s. 255/85r17s.

 

I just changed mine.

You could always hang onto em and swap em in along with your toytecs, when you're ready to upgrade the front again.

 

Everyone just gonna ignore the fact that dudes truck looks like a fuckin' mirror?
Welcome.Truck looks good! These frequent names that pop up will save you time and money( possibly cost you money too lol). Nobody has the answer to every question but collectively the group has you covered either from experience, knowledge or a combination of the 2.

 

I've been driving first gen Tundras for over 500,000 miles and I value ride quality. I ran LT245/75R16 load range C tires for a couple hundred thousand miles and they were an improvement over the stock 70's. Then I switched to LT265/75R16 load range C tires and they ride better, although gas mileage decreased a little. This is my favorite tire for these trucks. I've been running them about 70,000 miles. My trucks are not lifted and they fit the wheel wells just fine (barely). The LT265/75R16 fit in the spare tire receiver just fine. It is disappointing that there are so few choices in load range C tires because they are just right for half ton trucks.
If you have 17" wheels, you still can't use tires taller than LT265/75R16 so I don't see any advantage to using 17's unless your truck is lifted. One of my first gen Tundras had 17" wheels when I bought it and eventually I just put 16's back on.

 

265/70-17 for me on my stock 2wd. I really love the look of these which only have 1/4 tread left and can't wait to get something more aggrezzive looking on there. So far, I prefer the Tundras without the fender flares better. With these tires and rims, they are fully flush with the fender well and I can see why everyone uses greater offsets and spacers on the trucks with the flares to move the tires out further.

On a side note, saw a DC truck same color as mine without flares on my way to work today. Looked good too.

 

285/75-R16 BFG KO2's on Stockers

 

Sharp ride!

 

General Grabber HD comes in a 265/70-17 Load Range E which on a truck like yours would last about 100,000 miles even with towing
https://generaltire.com/tires/light-trucksuv/grabber-hd


General Grabber AT/X also comes in a 245/75/17 in Load Range E
General Grabber AT/X also comes in a 255/70-17 in Load Range SL
General Grabber AT/X also comes in a 265/65-17 in Load Range SL
General Grabber AT/X also comes in a 265/70-17 in Load Range C, SL, and E rating
https://generaltire.com/tires/light-trucksuv/grabber-atx

 

Bumper clearance is obviously not an issue, but how much body mount and wheel well clearance did you do? Truck looks great, I love that tire.

 

A fair bit of cutting and hammering the fronts sheet metal and rears of the front wheel wheels. The Solo LCAs push the front tires forward about an inch, so that really helps the back of the front wheel wells, but puts more stress on the front of em. Even with my 295/75R16's when I would stuff the tires off-road I actually was contacting the front sheet metal and the flares fender flares started to pop off today the front.
I still need to relocate my washer fluid reservoir and install a 1" body lift. If my calculations are correct, I'll be golden without chopping the body mount or tubbing the wheel wells.

The rear wheel wells didn't need any spec attention and they actually have 1.25" wheel spacers.

 

Nice, I have solo's lca's as well. I imagine the BL makes things a lot easier as well

 

posting to this thread because it's linked to @shifty`s sticky and it might help someone else. This is my current setup with a 2" lift, 8 inch wheels with 4.5 backspace and 265/75/16's. If I go for a 17 inch wheel with 4.28 backspace is this the spot where I'm most likely to rub? Right now I have about an inch of clearance so am I right in thinking I can only increase in total diameter up to an inch? or would that be up to 2 inches before rubbing?

 

I think you're failing to realize a couple of concepts.

Higher positive backspace puts your wheel farther into the wheel well. So at 4.28 you're pushing the wheel toward poking out of the well more.

Wheel width does play a role in backspace, so that info you left out is important to know. 4.28 backspace on a 7.5" wheel, I'd expect no rub at all. 4.28 backspace on a 10" wide wheel, I'm guessing you'd grab the pinch weld, regardless, the width is killing you in this case.

I can already see you're grabbing pinch weld, at least the flap. Almost everyone rubs there, removing the front mud flaps is most people's solutions. I did make a separate thread on how you can cut the flap to compensate. It's in the community info sticky. (not "shiftys sticky", that's everyone's effort, I just posted the first draft)

 

Oh yeah good point - failed to mention it's a 8.5" wheel I'm looking at. I assumed that since that's less than the sweet spot you mention of 4.75 that at least suspension rub would not be an issue. It seems like rub at the pinch weld or mud flap is harder to estimate and I thought I saw it written somewhere that with that width wheel and backspace that the diameter would be more of an issue for rub in those areas. That's why I found the spot where I seem to be closest to rubbing with my current setup and estimate how much more diameter it could handle before rubbing. But my current wheel is only 8" and I'm looking at 8.5 so I guess somewhat different

 

Maybe I'm over-thinking it though. the sticky says: "Best fit to put you near the fender edge w/o rub on 8½" wide wheel is ~4¾" backspace, 9" wheel aim for ~4.5" backspace." does that mean that more backspace is likely to rub on suspension and less backspace is likely to rub on pinch weld/mud flap?

 

Think of it like this. Lower positive i.e. not-negative) backspace number, the wheel is pushed out, farther from the strut. Higher positive backspace number, the wheel is pulled in, closer to the strut.

But obviously, if the rim is wider, you have more rim width you need to clear. Say you have a 2" wide wheel - impossible, but think about it. There's almost zero risk of it catching anything when turning in either direction at full lock, even with a 33" tire. Make that a 10" wide wheel, and you have four edges that may catch - either tire edge closest to the driver could catch the pinch weld (outer edge of tire) or the frame (outer edge of tire) because the wheel is so damn wide, and same with the front inner/outer edges of the tire potentially catching the front fender edge (outer edge of tire) or the frame (inner edge of tire). Think of this as someone swinging around a baseball bat that's 2ft long in a crowd of people versus swinging a baseball bat that's 10ft wide in a crowd of people. Width increases the distance of potential interaction with parts as the wheel turns.

Note that, proper alignment (using Caster to move the entire wheel closer to the bumper), and updating some components with more-friendly angles ( like using upper control arms to update geometry angles) can help mitigate rub. I'm rubbing currently, if I could get a shop to take my +2 caster to more like +3.5 caster, moving the wheel toward the bumper inside the wheel well, it would solve all my problems. But last time I asked, I got resistance because the shop I go to tries to do stuff "by the book", although this is a known tactic to fix my issue.

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Need a better shop. See if there are any custom shops that do race cars or old schools.

 

There’s a shop I’ll eventually get to, but it’s 35-45mins each way. Not looking forward to it.

 

Eh, that's not bad at all. I've got people coming from 2-3 hours away at times.

 

Totally not bad, as long as I don't catch traffic on the way in, or the way back. Else 35-45 minutes doubles or triples.

I'll get there, eventually.

 

It's weird to think of city life in those terms. 45 minutes of driving gets me to the next town over. Or halfway to Lubbock.

 

Yeah, the alternative is, living more rural where my options are potentially fewer. It's a lose/lose situation sometimes...

 

45 minutes gets me through like 3 towns, depending on the direction, or to Houston.

 

Now see, you're thinking city life again. I'm talking (semi)country life. If I head NE to Borger, it's 45 minutes away of country driving. ENE to Pampa is country driving same if you head SW to Hereford. Lubbock is more or less 100 miles away down I-27(the 27), so it's roughly 90 minutes to get there.