What home improvement work did you do today?

I wouldn’t say unfortunately. They have some solid cabinets. Not all are great but if you look you can find some good quality stuff. I didn’t realize the amount of friggin options.

partial overlay, full, inset, soft close, hidden hinges, et.

 

$50-100 max, the employee is still getting paid to be there

 

If your Bud is going to hook you up meaning a freebie,and putting you in que before his clientele and on a Friday,you're pretty damn lucky.
Pending on diagnosis severity,if it's just a cap ($15 ~ 40 part) duel or not yeah $60~100 tip would be a great compliment for that tech to kick off there weekend.

 

Man, you have a good friend there for sure!
Compressor swap change out give or take is out 4 hours to do it properly, I'm not going to itemize the sequence process, materials equipment and labor but for that price is pretty damn good my man!
It's always good to have Buds in your corner.

Pretty soon you'll be chillin!
Cheers.

 

That's a solid hookup, bottle of booze and/or dinner gift cert.

 

Since you know them well, you could also consider inviting them over for dinner... Takes cooking and clean up off the table for them for a night and makes the gift a little more personable.

 

Key party

 

Pics???

For science please

 

I would agree for the evap to get clogged, due to environment, and will prevent air flow across it,but in turn the evap would freeze up and that ice would chase the suction line back to the condenser and even incase the compressor in a Jacket of ice.

 

Roller coaster all day by the sounds of it,but it's Friday and all set for the weekend!

 

Any AC folks in here?

Question: I need to replace the drip pan under the air handler. Does anyone have a method for lifting an air handler? Rachet straps maybe?


Also the Ole push lawn mower needs a little TLC. Replaced the spark plug, cleaned the very dirty air filter. Still turning off after started. I am going to replace the carb next, hopefully that works or I'm going to be in the market for another.

 

It depends if it's strictly an airhandler or a furnace to,if a gas then you probably have a 1/2" Black pipe gas feed which would pretty much prevent vertical movement. Remember you already have a 3/4" copper suction line and the ductwork that's pretty ridged and is probably 32gage,and if 20 years or older it's 28 gage,
the lower the gage the thicker it is, just like Ammo.

So every case is different so maybe you have some wiggle room,I don't know,obviously so if you really feel the need for a project, you could get a pan and with tin snips cut a line down on just two corresponding corners and fold it flat and chase it under the unit.
Then re fold it to its functional position and with scrap pieces of sheet metal you can re bond it with water proof/bondo or soldier it.

Or make a mote, remove the old rotting existing one,build 2 frames around the base, one 2" bigger than the other with 2x4 or 2x6.
Before hand clean the foor with muriatic acid where it will serve,remember concrete will adhere, bond better this way.You want no oils present.

A safety pan is good for only so long before it spills over,and another avenue is a water puck that gets wired in series with your system.

Good luck with your choices.

 

I think “like” is an understatement, sir.

 

Thank you for the information. It is just an air handler. I think if I lift up slide the old plastic drip pan out and then slide in the aluminum one.

Need to figure out a prep for it so it doesn't rust and maybe silicon the edges and corners to prevent leaking.

 

Those secondary pans should never have water in them. If they do, that means you have an issue with your primary pan or condensate drain line.

 

Yes we had to clear out the condensate line. But we only found out about the condensate line because the pan had a cracked in it and started leaking through the ceiling in the living room. Line has been cleared. Now need to replace the cracked pan with a better pan. We have a switch that will cut the AC off if the water in the pan gets to high.

 

If the unit is in the attic with a safety pan, large or small most reputable companies will install a float switch.
If the condensate drain plugs and causes back up and overfill that bleeds into the pan once the float switch starts to rise with water level it will open the circuit to the condenser which turns it off which stops the cooling but more importantly stops additional condensate.
So in turn, the occupied space gets warm and and you call a tech because it's getting hot and they go to work and figure out ect...

 

There is a float switch in place. The problem was the pan had a crack in it and so the float switch never switched off. We only knew the pipe was clogged because of it.

 

They also make in-line float switches that can be installed on your drain line or a secondary port on the drain pan, wired in series with your other float.

$22 Rectorseal 97632 Safe-T-Switch Ss1,Black/ White

https://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-9...64984ba45a5435e6af089cd5929fa5a3&gad_source=1

 

Ahhhh now all the pieces are coming together,I initially thought the unit was in the basement, hence a cement mote, then shit Brother bondo the crap out of it with JB weld or have a buddy come over to help swap out the pan man...