What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

This is the ticket! An often overlooked step. Also make sure the clear coat is UV resistant, otherwise it will yellow with time.

 

Check out my post on this thread #15558 and you can see the difference the Cerakote made for mine. Still as clear to this day.

 

Installed new Dobinsons Leaf Springs 330-770lb Load (P/N L59-121-R), U-Bolts, Greaseable bolts, Timbren Bumpstop spacers, and swapped out my CB +2" Shackles for CB +1" shackles.
Still need to change out my Fox Shocks for longer travel ones. Overall I'm pretty happy the bottom picture is my trailer hooked up without the WDH bars hooked up, sitting pretty level!

 

First coat of roll on bed liner. Went with a light gray color to tone the heat down a bit. Honestly I wish I went with a dark gray but at this point, that's not happening.

 

2 coats. Followed durabek's instructions. Sanded, cleaned with solvide, taped off the tailgate and went for it. Left the topper on with all my doors open for the whole process. Pretty easy overall and I'm happy with the results of the finished product. Took longer to wait between coats than it did to prep and paint everything. Just under 4 hours total.

 

Not so much of did to it as did in it.

The fam and I spent the afternoon floating in the Colorado River. Had fun rides getting there.

My son-in-law's 2008 (left) and my 2011 (right).

 

Question:?

Does the '08 seem peppier than the the '11?

I have an '08 and a '21. The '08 is much more peppier and fun to drive. I'm just curious how the same engine and drive train changed over the years.

 

Throttle mapping is the biggest change for ‘14+ trucks. Looking at the stock tune file between my ‘13 Tundra and my ‘15 sequoia, the accelerator pedal is dumbed down a little bit and they limit the some throttle angle opening in 1st gear. MAF is also mapped a little differently (more tame on the ‘15). There was also a pedal replacement for some years - maybe ‘10-‘12 - for a jumpy pedal; it included a new tune file to dumb it down as well.

From what I’ve gathered, the ‘14+ tundras mimic my sequoia with gently throttle mapping and such, whereas ‘13 and earlier were ‘peppy-er’ mostly due to the tune. For fun, I matched my throttle settings from my sequoia to my tundra. Even with the SC it felt kind of like a dog until you really got on it.

 

What put in and take it did you use?

 

Finally… it’s back. It’s been at Bodyshop for 6 months getting painted.

 

Looks good, need to lower it

 

I have noticed no difference between the two. Both have very responsive gas pedals, and both have quite a bit of scat on tap. They are both fun to drive.

 

I totally agree… the bank is on empty for the time being. I thought about bags but I don’t think I want the potential hassle or the cost. Fortunately I don’t have to daily it so a harder ride won’t be a problem.

 

Is it sitting totally stock right now? Almost looks lowered already lol. Maybe look into the SOS performance rear only kit if you haven't already. (Can also do front and rear depending on your goals)

 

The Sequoia grille and bumper look awesome with the Morimotos.

Very nice truck sir.

Edit: And it definitely looks lowered already to me

 

I'm terrible at documenting a process but I went over to a good friends who has a shop with a lift that I used to replace my brakes. Went with power stop z36 drilled and slotted rotors. On the drive home I got to test them out on vail pass and I will say they are well worth the upgrade price. Found them on rockauto for 25% off last week.

 

35’s

 

Did you do the recommended bedding in procedure? Lol. It seems excessive but I put a set of Z36s on my Dad's Sierra and did the whole thing. Not sure if it made a difference but they work great and he's happy.

 

I did. I thought it also seemed excessive but I could tell a difference before and after the break in process. Backing out of his shop I could hear squealing coming to a stop. After the break in they function as should and definitely better than oem.

 

I ran those on my '08 when I was towing... I went through the procedure and had a good service life from them, but when the pads started to get low, one of them almost completely disintegrated Not sure it was really anything more than just 'one of those things' that happens....

The set up served me well though; rotors held up much better than OE (warping), no chattering, excessive noise or brake dust, etc....

 

I don't tow often but do have some fairly heavy loads when we do river trips across the country. 4 people, 2 rafts, all the gear, food and ice add up quickly. Then adding beer and whiskey weight.

When not towing I'm still driving up and down passes all spring and summer just to do day runs. Having lived here most of my life and putting over 300 k on my first gen I can definitely tell the difference in how this bigger truck is hard on brakes. I don't ride my brakes at all either, s mode going downhill. My hope is what you said about your experience with them compared to oem. I'll keep an eye on pad thickness as I rotate tires so I don't have one disintegrate on me.

 

When we do brakes at our shop we always burn the pads in, def does help

 

Used it for truck stuff.... moving son into college Apartment.

 

100% it helps. It's a must.

 

Cor me skeptical.

Been doing my own brakes for 30 years. I've never " bedded and burned" the pads.

Let's just say for a daily driver, I can't see the advantage.

I'm willing to be convinced that it helps.

 

I can't explain it as far as mechanics go but I will say that after bedding them in they seem to work better, and don't have any squeak to them. They have some good bite to them and are working great.

 

Bedding the brakes in transfers brake material on to the rotor creating more friction. It can happen over time, but you can also risk glazing the rotors by not doing it. Different manufacturers have different procedures, but independent tests prove it’s worth doing.

 

That looks really good, amazing transformation. You went from what year to what year?

I agree. I have both SOS lowering kit and airbags on my ‘07 SR5. Handles better, rides smoother.
Not that expensive and I did it myself.

 

You did rotors and pads? Not calipers? Does Rock Auto sell ‘loaded calipers’? I do know that
don’t scrimp on pads, there is definitely quality differences. My ‘10 had brakes put on and I can
only guess they said ‘cheapest ya got’, cause rotors are chipping and surface is cracked at vent
post locations. So I’m needing new brakes after less than 2000 kms.