What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

Looks like all this tech did was just set the toe setting on the tie rods. He didn’t even bother adjusting your cam tabs, I would get a refund

 

I think this was a fluke. At 205k it was still running smooth, holding the same fuel economy as it had at 126k when I bought it and not using oil.

My best guess, without tearing the engine down, is that the alternator caused a voltage spike when it failed and fried something in the ECM. There were multiple codes for low and hi voltage and for the crankshaft position and camshaft position sensors, but no misfire codes. There were no abnormal sounds or vibrations when it died on the street. It was just suddenly not running anymore and it wouldn't even engage the starter in neutral or park until I turned the headlights off. Then it just sounded like a dead alternator and undercharged battery.

Maybe it caused an injector to hold open and fill the cylinder with fuel which hydro-locked the cylinder and broke the rod when the engine started. But that's just speculation and I'm not certain that sequence of events is even feasible.

I recharged the battery and tried starting it when I got it home to troubleshoot the alternator. It turned over really slowly and smelled like hot plastic. I disconnected the alternator power wire and rectifier plug. It turned over normally and started, but idled really slowly and rough with some noise that I thought was the valvetrain. It quickly died, but didn't produce any trouble codes.

I did a compression test on the front two cylinders to confirm that it hadn't jumped timing. Both were at 180 psi so I didn't pull any other plugs or check any other cylinders.

I decided that there were two issues and fixing the alternator first would make finding the second easier. Bad weather was on the way so while I was changing the alternator I changed the oil and filter while the ground was dry. The next day I confirmed that it was full of oil on the dipstick then started it. The phrase "there arose such a clatter" seem to best describe what happened next.

The hole is actually in the upper oil pan just behind the motor mount on the driver side.

Yeah. It's 7.9 quarts (7.4 liters). I typed the wrong number, but put it the right amount.

I could change the engine and sort out everything else myself, but I'd have to do it in the driveway and winter weather is coming soon.

I've got no interest in doing that job in the snow and it doesn't make any sense to pay someone else to do it. I'm cutting my losses and replacing the truck. I'll sell it as-is to someone who can fix it and get another Tundra with fewer miles. I'll just have to pull all of my accessories off before I sell it.

 

Good alignment shops and mechanics refer to that derisively as a "toe-n-go" alignment. It's a pretty common standard practice at all of the large national/regional tire and alignment shops unless they somehow hire someone with some intelligence and a conscience. Most of the alignment techs out there aren't trained any better than the guy in the grease pit at the lube shop.

 

Thx for the confirmation guys, I appreciate it.

I am in the process of trying to find a shop around me.
North Tampa area.

 

@TampaRD Pro do you have any shop recommendations?

 

I purchased the Lifetime Alignment from Firestone out in Brandon for my original alignment after installing the Coachbuilder TRD Pro Kit, just so I could go in and get it checked out occasionally after wheeling. My long time tire/alignment guy is Gene at Weaver's Tire & Automotive on 60 in Brandon, he re-checked it after installing the Toyo 35's and after I had 5000 miles on them for a rotation. He's a good trustworthy merchant, does a lot of lifted trucks and has handled all the tire needs of my various 4WD vehicles for the last 35 years.

Weaver's Automotive
310 W Brandon Blvd, Brandon, FL 33511
(813) 685-2906

 

Thank you! @Ohannon7 here is an option.

 

They did what many shops do, set the toe and go! Crazy how many shops cant perform a real alignment these days. Yes, find a font end shop or 4wd shop and they should be able to do it right.

 

what size wheels/offset/tires are you running? Thinking about getting the CB tie rods when I redo my suspension.

 

Well the fight is nearly over finished up the Total Chaos Cam tabs, couldn't get LCA's from Toyota so ended up getting some from O'reillys which got around on that and they gave me two different ones. One of which looks weird and had to stretch the pocket for sway link to drop in since it was to small. Removing the sway bar to do OEM bushings and links on of the sway bar bolts decided it liked the nut inside frame and broke it loose, so it turned into a frame surgery to get it fixed. I noticed the drivers side tie rod nut to be loose and then working on the passenger side I bumped the rod and it just came apart Leschwab aligned it before I left on my trip out here from south Oregon to north Washington and I toke my father to Olympia for surgery on the super twisty 101 to think the whole time it was hanging on by two threads. But finished up and got everything back together hoping to have a full alignment done tomorrow by Toyota.

 

Nothing special but finally got around to putting the factory tow hooks on. Had them sand blasted and painted. Oil changed, tires rotated, new spare tire mounted and left rear wheel bearing replaced (128k). Ready to go for the weekend trip. (Waiting on someone to run a good BF sale so i can get rid of these shitty fog lights)

 

@memario1214

 

Yeah. Mine did that too.

 

Same here.

 

6” ProComp lift.
17x8.5 +10 wheels on 37x13.5.

Black rhino stadium
Cooper discovery sst pro tires

 

you beat me to it

 

I notice you still have your sway bar on.
I took my swaybar off.
It seems to drive better but idk

 

Took the summer air out of my tires and refilled with winter air.

In all seriousness, make sure your spare tire is aired up. And that the chain mechanism isn't all rusted.

 

Rust treatment to prepare for Winter. Last week I powerwashed everything. Today I treated any surface rust with Corroseal. Then I sprayed the frame and any non-exhaust rustable parts with Fluid Film Black (5 cans).

Up on 4 ramps...



Before/after of the rear diff (though it's more about protecting the frame):




The fluid film stops any existing rust and protects the surface from water and salt that would start new rust. You're supposed to re-apply it every year.

 

Thanks bud.

 

That sounds about right.

If you want something done correctly....

 

Back on the 7th I ordered a reman’d longblock.
4-8 week lead time.

 

If you don't mind me asking, just out of curiosity, what did that end up setting you back given our current inflated price trend??

 

It’s a 4.7L 2UZFE but $4377.67.

 

couldn't get your current block resurfaced at a local shop? or didn't want to?

 

Really doesn't seem that bad given the current market

 

North Tampa checking in. The Toy House on 301 is family owned for generations and always do good for me.

 

I looked at a few used trucks here in the North East with 100k miles. The rust made me decided to replace my 5.7 that recently threw a rod instead of getting a different truck. I'm keeping my mostly rust-free truck with 205k.

In a few weeks I'll swap in a used 5.7 with 44k miles. I'll post pictures of the carnage in the old engine after I finish the swap.

By now I've done so many mods that swapping the engine will likely take less time than moving the mods to a different truck

 

5.7 with 44k miles: $6,800