What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

Washed the truck. Drove home from North Carolina last night. I was up there with my dad doing some maintenance and some modifications to my truck for the past few days.. I'll have to take some photos and make another post tomorrow.

 

Got the drivers side down so I can install the ECGS bushing, as well as R&R the UCA,




As well, rebuilt the McPherson's,



KYB Mono Max..

Hopefully the bushing tomorrow and all the parts put back together, then all to the passenger side Thursday.

On Edit: Noticed a bad seal on the backside of the hub assembly, and after messing with the hub, I could detect a "click" when I would rotate the lug s....so I ordered new TRQ wheel bearing/hubs.

 

Replaced and installed a new battery.

Finally, after 10 years, my stock Toyota 84-month battery took a dirt nap. WOW!

I have had great results with Duralast Gold batteries in the past, so I went that route. Time will tell.



O.S.T.

 

That's great. Toyota batteries get alot of hate on here.

 

I just topped off my 10 year old battery with distilled water. Still getting 13.4v when running. Checking for proper water level in lead/acid batteries as well as keeping terminals clean and tight is key to longevity.

https://www.usbattery.com/know-batterys-water-fill-level/

 

Yep, that's the secret for sure. I did the same. (but, got lazy and used tap water, but still...)


O.S.T.

 

Update on the Weileite window moldings. Free replacements arrived within a couple of days. Fit and finish on this set is 100% better. They fit like OEM did, they are long enough, and the rear rubber on the back windows fits snugly under the trim in the back which it didn’t on the original replacement set. Time will tell how these hold up to the elements but I’m happy with the replacements and they were free due to lifetime warranty on them. If they fail again, I will go OEM Toyota but these should do for at least another year.

 

Agreed, wouldn't be surprised if they crapped out early. Feel like "cheap" rubber vs the OEM but hey....the replacements were free and of all the parts on our trucks, this is probably the easiest to swap because it requires no tools and takes about 5 minutes for all 4. Time will tell for sure

 

I wonder if I can use some of those back to black or ceramic trim restorer to bring it back to original color and add some UV protection.

 

I'm sure it wouldn't hurt but depends on the product. The OEM was more of a plastic type than the rubber that these are. I replaced them originally because the molded in retainer clips that hold it to the center column broke off and they had at some point been glued by the previous owner. They came loose and so I had to replace the moldings. I replaced them with this "budget" brand and they only lasted a year before warping in the sun but they replaced for free. These are the replacements. I'm not confident they will last as long as OEM did (approx 11yrs) but hope they last longer than a year that the first set did. Will be replacing with Toyota OEM next time around

 

Today I installed my new Supreme Suspensions 1.75” lift shackles and new CB rear leaf spring bushings.

All went smooth with the torch, sawz-all, and pneumatic chisel.

 

Not today, but this week I went up to my folks place in North Carolina and my dad and I did some stuff to my truck.

We made our own auxiliary power kit and relay block and mounted it to a sheet of steel. Secured that to my fuse box and did a bunch of wiring.
Wired up my fog lights (finally), my raptor lights, and a button for my garage door opener with AirOnBoard switches.
Before wiring up my fogs, we removed the front bumper and installed a CoachBuilder shim kit to push the front bumper forward half an inch. It definitely makes a world of difference with the 2014-2021 bumper installed on an 07-13.
Replaced my serpentine belt with a Continental one.
Then we went to install a transmission thermostat, so that I can run lines to an AT cooler, but the first bolt snapped off and we decided it'd probably be best not to proceed while I was 160 miles from home..
Instead, we decided to replace the CarQuest brake pads (front and rear) that have been on my truck since I bought it 5 years ago with OEM ones.

I'm going to remove the carbon fiber vinyl in my truck and paint the inside black.
Got a lot goin on...

Today, I removed the running boards on my truck and have been prepping them for Raptor liner.

 

Just got done installing some Kicker KSC 2 3/4” tweeters in the dash. I replaced my factory door speakers and head unit back in 2017 and never realized I had dash tweeters.
At the time, Crutchfield only gave me options for the front and rear doors, and I’d previously removed the middle dash speaker grille to see that there was nothing there.
Stereo sounds so much better now!

Then I did the rear diff breather mod and relocated it to behind my taillight. Hopefully with Hurricane Ian making its way towards us I don’t have to test it out!

Lastly, I changed the diff fluid. It’s been about 35K miles since the last time I did it. Fluid was dark and stinky but not nearly as bad as the last time I did it.
I used the Valvoline FlexFill bags this time, it was easier that using my cheap bottle pump but I’m not sure if I like it. Each bag still holds a decent amount of fluid and then you have to roll them like a tube of toothpaste to get them to empty.

 

I bought a very expensive diehard battery from Sear's that lasted less than a year. They didn't take it back cause their test said it was still good. I would say never again but I think they are bankrupt.

 

Thanks for the update!

 

It’s nice to see some folks who still have their second gen after all these years!

 

Started early on pulling my rack and pinion and doing sway bar bushings and links plus Total Chaos Uniball UCAs. Turns out my front end issue of violent shake bent a cam tab. (Wasn't bent before).

 

Been running diagnostics on my Tundra, 270k, due to there being an intermittent misfire on Cylinder 1... been on and off with no codes and had bee driving sluggish. Today, I decided to go all in, due to advantageous circumstances since my oil change was due. Started removing spark 1 and spark 3 and swapping them. If there was an issue I would find it once I was done with the oil and take it for a spin.


Here is spark plug 1 and 2






swapped them both and the misfire, jumped to Cyl 6. So, now its electrical I thought.



I did pull both plugs without disconnecting the battery, so I thought, maybe I need to reset the computer, so I disconnected the battery and it felt super light.. kinda threw me off... but I moved. Left it for about 30 minutes, before I needed the truck and I discover a possible culprit to the issue.







So far she has been alright, no issues that I've noticed.... Took for a spin and seems more responsive and quieter, lol..

 

Bought a '07 Tundra today 220k miles on the clock, got her mainly to pull the boat. Time to get her baselined and updated to my aesthetic.. Have a lot to learn and will be on this forum searching..

 

Ordered the most expensive little pieces of rubber ever!

 

Advanced auto carries the diehard name now.

 

I decided to throw in a carrier bearing drop today.

 

I love it when it turns out to be something simple! Even if it drives you crazy for a while.

 

Sure did... never noticed it since it was tucked where it was supposed to.. Only when I decided to pull the battery is when I noticed it.

 

Got the rack and pinion pulled out, needless to say I struggled and made the biggest mess ever. I'm now pondering how I will get the other one in. Really don't want to drop the diff nor take apart the new one to slide it in. Guess I should look through my 12k page manual.

 

Might search the forum a bit more.

I know there is a thread which explains which part can be removed from the steering rack inorder to remove and install without removing the front differential. As I understand, it can not be done with the diff in place, without this method.

At least you're half way there already!


....feeling generous (and the search was easy with google). I hope it helps

https://www.tundras.com/threads/the...olutions-updated-10-2020-in-first-post.33539/

 

I did not know this was even possible without dropping the diff. I just had mine unbolted to replace the bushings and I thought there was no way on earth it was exiting the frame.

Edit: I think Toyota advises you remove the engine to replace the rack.

I'd drop the diff.

 

I upgraded my visors with the lighted double visors from a junked Limited edition.

Since I had the center console out I added some sound proofing.



I steamed off the warnings because I hate them.



I spliced in the power using these gadgets. I have an electronic rearview so I needed power to three separate wires. The light blue wire in the unused harness is switched power and the white with black stripe is negative.



The original bulbs suck so I upgraded them to LED. Before/after:



Visor works two ways now:


But I lost or moved a grey switch thing inside the driver's center console light so... Two steps
Forward, one step back.

 

What’s the going rate for those sun visors ?