What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

My intent was not hurt you in the feels, rather to (foolishly attempt) reducing the spread of misinformation regarding an issue which does not affect 99.99% of us.

I was born a smart-ass and some don't find my helpfulness to be helpful.

All types in this crazy world

 

How do you like those alpharex tails? They look sharp!

 

Has someone mounted this quick load system for a dirt bike in the back of the tundra bed ? I just ordered them wondering if some one has some pictures …

 

I like them a lot. Very bright, fit well. Only drawback is regardless of the resistors I installed I cannot rid the hyper flash. I have sequoia lights so all LED = crazy turn signals. I’ll eventually figure it out this spring but was tired of working on it in the cold. Overall they’re a great product, no leaks, good fitment and really updated the rear end

 

That's good to hear! I was concerned about them leaking. I'm curious if the hyper flash would exist if you didn't also have the sequoia LEDs up front.

 

I gave mine some exercise and a spa mud bath

oh yeah and upgraded my rotors to NeoChrome thanks to AutoLSD

 

Right you are! Installed them on top setting and reused the existing coil. A little out of my comfort level, but it turned out in the end. Overall, pleased with the way it turned out. Haven’t driven it much, but the few miles I drove it to get an alignment done was much better than the factory shocks which make me want to .

Picture before:

…and after.

 

Well following my last post ordered up "Power Stop high performance pads and rotors", kinda been needing rotors but did cheap pad slaps 7k ago and well ended up boiling the fluid and smoking a pad today.

 

Took out the washer fluid bottle. Drained the 11 years of mixed smeg. Cleaned it out and replaced with fresh rainex. First world problems!

 

Doh- double post

 

Removed the rear section of the driveshaft and cleaned out theslip joint then relubed it. I discovered that ther is a chunk of foam inside the driveshaft...
Wile I was at it, I decided to lube the ujoints. I'm not sure they've ever been done, judging by the look and smell of the old lube coming out. Got all of them but the rear joint on the front prop shaft. I'm thinking I will unbolt it, and see if there is enough play in that slpijoint to get a grease gun on it.

Next will be a new gasket at the exhaust to muffler joint. It's leaking and I'm not convinced I have the correct replacement. Stalling on this as there's a 2019 system available for a great price. Just not sure it will fit.

I did notice something I thought was odd. The nuts at the flanges between the cats and the mufflet were tack welded to the flanges. Not sure if this was factory or done later for some reason.

 

Installed Goodrich stainless steel brake lines then bled the brakes and put new fluid in. Also added some resistors to finally get rid of the hyper flash from my rear led turn signals.

 

Won't even lie, I'm a bit stunned. Need some advice.

Just had rack and pinion replaced. Truck won't align, caster is off. This is a little stunning to me, I just had my dads mechanic align the truck a month ago when I replaced the LCA with 0 issues. Hard to believe the bolts would rust in a month (they didn't). I'm probably going to take it back to my dads mechanic and see if he can align it.

Just wondering if anyones got any experience with something like this? With this estimate I'll be coming up on 4 grand for repairs.

 

Used a break in the rain yesterday to put the headliner back in. Bass sounds better now with the sound deadener/thermal insulation/headliner all in place. The vibration I was getting in the roof from the platform is gone. Alignment issues are small and I think I can tweak the clips that the screws go into and get everything back to where it should be. I did somehow manage to misplace one screw for the passenger visor, but a trip to HD corrected that.
Biggest PITA getting it back in was having to lay my 55 gal water drum on its side with 15 gal still in it stand it back up after.
I think we are expecting some low 70s next week, I'll get deadener on the pillars while it is warm and get the covers back in after that.

 

Installed some new power recepticles.

 

Swapped out some LED's on my original cluster. Here's the post I created for it:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/2nd-gen-cluster-diy-led-upgrade.104457/

 

Nothing really to show, I installed a bullydog bdx

 

Put the lights on the side. The cutoff line from the roof is a little closer than I thought it would be. It looks dark, but I still get enough reflective light that I can see.

 

Finally repaired my broken window mount.

Melted the old one with a butane torch and scraped it off with the glass still in the door. Then glued a new mounting clip on.

 

Replaced the block from the BDS lift kit with Old Man Emu springs and coachbuilder +2" shackles. I was getting a bit of a sag in the back with the blocks and 11 year old springs, a bit hard to tell from the pictures but now I have a slight rake which is what I was trying to achieve. The customer support from Ekstrom Design was great, they couldn't have been more helpful.

 

definitely need a second opinion, what do they mean by seized eccentrics? Cam bolts?

 

Bought some new wheels.

 

Yep.

 

Changed out the black mirrors covers for body match, body color matched handles instead of the black and and added a Toyota decal to the tailgate.

 

Things I've been trying to do for the past 3 days. Replaced my steering rack and power steering pump. 10/10 pain in the ass.

QUESTION: Can I bang the CV axle into the front transmission OR should I remove the CV axle from the knuckle and then bang it in?

 

Which ever way allows the CV to be straight while its inserted into Axel axel housing. If you have the CVs at a angle while hitting it you have a chance to break the CV's.
Most likely will need to remove it from the knuckle.

 

OK so I pretty much took everything off and next is the UCA nut. There's little to no tension on the brake kine.. It should be much easier to manipulate after that.

Feels like I'm wrestling a aligator...

 

After accidentally divorcing my cv axle from the front diff, I was able to rotate the axle till the slpines engaged, depress the cir-clip, and slide the cv end into the differential an inch or so (with force, but only hands).

Then lifted the lower control arm with a jack to achieve a more desirable alignment/angle on the joint. Confirming with rotations that the slpines still seemed engaged.

I seated a long, mechanics prybar in the groove on the cv collar and lovingly tapped it home with a 3lb mini-sledge.

Refilled with Mobil 1 75w90, and everything's been running great since (~5k miles)

 

Yeah unfortunately when I jack my lower control arm, the truck starts the lift. So I'll have to take the root of taking the CV axle out of the knuckle...not excited about it. Now I'm trying to find the ungodly sized socked to take off that nut