What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

Well, this is probably one y'all haven't heard before. It might work, and might not work, and with luck, I'll never even know if it would work or not. Installed an EMP Shield in the truck. This after also installing one on my house (two in my residence, in fact, one at the house, one at the out-building). Won't know if they work unless the SHTF. The ones on the buildings also protect from lightning hits, so there's that. But if there's an EMP event, I won't be able to tell y'all if this thing worked, since the internet will likely be kaput. But here it is, in any case. 5 minute hook-up, red to battery positive, black to battery negative, green to chassis ground. Unit mounted with heavy duty velcro-type attachment. Only other place to mount was other side of engine compartment. https://www.empshield.com/

 

Made in Burlington Kansas. . . pretty cool.

 

Did it come with a shiny hat? One for everyone hopefully.

 

Cute.

 

Just buy an old pickup with a points distributor and don’t worry about it. Classic cars will soon become valuable because of their lack of technology.

 

Santa left me one of those magnet things in my stocking. Easiest mod ever. Took me longer to open the packaging lol. Probably not the best spot for it, but I'm waiting to wash the truck again before I try it elsewhere.

 

Replaced the old battery. Question: can you tell the age of the battery from these numbers?



Could be July 2010 or May 2016?

A 5-minute job took two hours because I found rust and compulsively removed it. Also organized the headlight wiring that I had just crammed in beside the battery because I'm a lazy hack.



Thanks to this forum for recommending this battery. I've added many electronics and heated seats so it needed more juice.

 

I put mine to the right of the V8 badge, at the same height right below that body line

 

Thanks, I'll give that a go this weekend since it's wash day tomorrow. Nothing clean, right.

 

Attempted to find the source of my belt squeal on startup. Hopefully this is it and cleaning the pulleys solves it.

Also replaced a leaking radiator and threw a new belt on.

 

If not the belt then maybe a new tensioner. They need to be replaced about every two belt changes.

 

I'm a bad man no pics atm, but started a interior detail about 80% done after 4 hours got to dark, will pick up on it tomorrow and then double wash time. If my exterior gets to dirty I like to first wash it all with dawn then go back over with mothers wash and wax. Find thats the best way for deep clean and deep shine. If I get that done at a decent time tomorrow might start my front shock replacement.

definitely going to be looking for brushed aluminum like trim vinyl for the inside to cover the silver trim since its showing age in some spots and a leather wrap for the wheel all this hand sanitizer use is really doing a number on my steering wheel foam.

 

I changed the belt and tensioner last year and it was quiet until recently. But i cant recall if the pulleys had the rubber on them or not. Might be why it was making noise back then.

It's not squealing now, but it's not 6am Monday morning yet. Lol

 

Drilled some holes in my roof to install the Rhino Rack Backbone. Of course, I have one hole on each side that is just far enough shifted that the bolt won't go in straight. So I will take a round file to the edge of the slots on Tuesday. After drilling (and vacuuming and cleaning with rubbing alcohol), I painted the exposed metal with cold galvanizing paint, then installed the supplied rivnuts.

I don't like how the the rivnuts on the front passenger side holes collapsed inwards, so I think I might just make some welded nut backing plates instead for the front on both sides. But, that will wait until I take the headliner completely out to do wiring and install sound deadener and insulation (just waiting for the deadener to get delivered). Reason being, this is the leading edge and I'd rather have overkill on securing it than have my platform go for a flight.

For those who consider adding a roof rack. There is one vendor (whom I shall not name) that shows an install video where the schlub just drills right in (at one point picking a piece of headliner or air bag off the drill bit). DO NOT DO THAT! DO NOT FU**ING FOLLOW WHAT THAT PUTZ SAYS. He also uses a magnet to clean up the metal from drilling the hole, rubbing it across the paint. USE A FU**ING VACUUM! And vacuum it often to prevent buildup of stuff that will drop in through the hole or get kicked around by the bit.
I went a little overkill on my method. I used a good clamp style drill bit stop as primary, a cheap HF set screw style drill bit stop as spacer (clamp style is too big to fit in the drip rail and the HF ones are cheap enough to buy with the intent of using as spacers), and I used a putty knife as a backer. The HF ones came loose even just being used as spacers.

You will find that you need to drill different depths depending on how many pieces of metal there are and what is behind them. Start shallow (I started at 3/16") on all holes, then adjust to go deeper on the ones that need it, and keep adjusting. The shallowest holes are about 6" Infront of the clamps that hold the drip rail moulding at the back, this is where the side curtain airbag is directly below just two layers of metal.
Drill all holes one depth at a time instead of working one hole til it's done.
The reason why I say be very cautious is because you WILL fu** it up in an expensive way if you do what that vendor putz says. You will put a hole in your headliner, or kill your side curtain air bags.



I don't have the platforms up here with me on the mountain, so I sealed the edges of the rivnuts with butyl tape and put the bolts in to seal the holes. I'll install the rack next week, just getting it set up since I only have about 6 hours to do everything for the week when I'm off the mountain before I have to head back up.
Sorry for rambling.

 

great trick for the drill bit stops, gotta keep that in the back of the brain for when I build my roof rack

 

$20 for two sets of drill bit stops and a putty knife is substantially cheaper than replacing airbag components. If I had some 3/8" washers with me, I would have added those too because the clamp bolt still hit paint a couple times.

 

Windsor, you're completely correct. In that last pic IS the side curtain airbag. I have no idea what they cost, but somewhere along that curtain is an aluminum reservoir to fire it off and wires going to it to explode it in the event of a wreck. It's not the kind of wiring I'd want to just tape back up.

 

Going TTV6 are we?

Did you confirm what the ticky ticky tick ended up being??

 

I've been thinking about exactly this too. Hopefully you do it first and share pictures

 

Connecting rod bearings and maybe more… waiting for my engine stand and then I will open her up from the bottom.

 

When I take my headliner out to add deadener, I'll add a couple pictures showing where all the components are with a measuring tape showing distance from set points.

Edit: took the time to drop the headliner. Note, to take it out of the truck, take it out the rear window.
I found that only the rear 3 rivnuts on either side expanded properly, the front 3 expanded inwards and between layers as the compression seems to have been above the lowest layer of metal.
So, all the rivnuts are going to be drilled out. I will be mounting it using nyloc nuts and fender washers cut to fit. Probably add blue loctite for good measure.

I am also including pictures of measurements. Known points are the center of the B pillar, door moulding, and the bottom of the depressed section of the roof for the location of the cylinder. Cylinder is about 3/4" below the roof and just barely not touching the cross braces. Other than the section at the front of the cylinder, the airbags are roughly 1 1/2" below the roof forward of the B pillar and 2" - 2 1/2" behind the B pillar.

Along with the 6 screws holding the overhead console up, the rear light is held in with those plastic push clips. Just give it a firm tug and it will come down. There are also 6 of the clips at the back of the headliner above the window moulding. Start on one side and work your way across.
Once dropped, you will find that all the wiring for the front lights and prewire for what I assume is an OE backup camera is glued to the front lip of the headliner and the center light wiring is glued to the headliner along the driver side and across to the light.

 

Yikes. That's a lot of glitter.

Not fun, but interested to see what the teardown yields.

 

Finished the driver's seat. Just need to finish the bench and center console lid, steam everything to remove the wrinkles and then wire the seat heaters.

 

Added a spacer lift until my bilsteins finally kick the bucket. Did the UCA switch and differential drop a week or so back. Seeing about 3.5” but figure it’ll settle some .

 

BAD ASS

 

Thanks. Not gunna lie, tossing the rack on kind of got me stoked on it all over again. Now if it wasn’t a million below zero

 

A little grinding on the lca for the new coilovers.

Before:


After:

 

I just finished finished putting new leather on my center console. $15 part on Amazon. Looks good, but god it was a pain to install. Took over 2 hours. Best method I found was to bring the lid inside and use clothes lines pins to hold the leather in place while you strech it out and get it set. Then used hot glue to lock in place, then reinstalled the plastic rim to lock in place.

Good luck!

 

Thanks for the info. Installed this weekend and works like a charm.