What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

It didn't stop entirely, however it did improve. I have multiple issues going on. Long story short I had tires mounted at Walmart ( I know, but there aren't many options here that aren't a 2+ hour drive for me). They installed the tires all wrong, heavy side on the same side as the valve stem, etc. Getting new tires shortly so i'll deal with that then. The driveline vibration I attacked in multiple ways.

1. Greased the Drive shaft (it looks like it was never done and I bought it at 68k and now have 118k on the clock). Wasn't aware it was serviceable until recently.
2. Carrier bearing drop (this took out what I would call the "Annoying vibration". More noticeable when towing anything, even an empty trailer. Vibration anywhere from 10-30mph when going from dead stop). Slight vibration at 70mph which moved to 50mph and less severe after the carrier bearing drop. I would say its worth doing, took all of 10 minutes even with breaking the welded square nut loose on the one side. I used a lug nut and 2 lock washers on both sides to give me 3/4" of space. I can't abide spending good money on overpriced metal when I have free metal laying around...

Other suspension issues i've dealt with recently:

1. I blew the passenger shock over winter so I replaced both front and rear shocks and dumped the spacer lift. (this helped immensely with the tire issues above, a band-aid albeit a damn good one).
2. Sway bar bushings went out about a month ago. I swapped to poly bushings and am working on replacing the end links with heim joints.
3. Warped front rotors. I tow a lot and we live in a mountainous region. The warped rotors were contributing to the front end shake as well. I replaced them with Bendix Fleet Metlok rotors and couldn't be happier.


Each of the steps took care of a little of the drive line vibration(s) as well as the front end shimmy, wobble, shake(s). Still plugging away at it and I think i'm about there in terms of once the new tires go on with a road force balance it will be smooth as it can be.

 

You crossed that log. Right? Cause that's the first thing I would have done.

 

Just put in the order for RCI rock sliders, full steel skid package (engine and trans), and cat guards. Wasn't sure i'd see a better discount from them so pulled the trigger.

I waffled back and forth on steel vs aluminum, figured I couldn't go wrong with steel.

 

You'll be happy with that setup. I love mine. One of those things that you don't really notice until you hear a rock slamming into them and think "thank God I had those".

 

That is awesome! My 2016 has the bench seat, so this isn't an option for me. This might be the biggest regret I have about the truck I bought - bench seat vs. console.

 

You're not missing anything. With that safe you will be dead by the time you manage to open it bang bang BANG

 

Need confirmation for a pcv valve please.

$15 12204-38030

12204-38030 - for flex fuel
12204-38010 - for non-flex fuel

 

I'd love to hear the explanation for why there are two part numbers depending on flex or non-flex for a PCV.

 

Same here
I ordered the -38030 one for my non flex. Truck hasn't blown up yet. Hope it doesn't.

 

It's so you can't go full send on the plug and strip it. .5 ugga, duggas. No more!

 

Replaced the inner and outer tie rod on my passenger side. Neither tire shop nor dealer could break loose the jam nut to complete an alignment. Dealer wanted $960 to replace it. Nope nope nope. Tried my hand at replacing it myself, first time. Used OEM parts. Dealer had good price on the outer tie rod (45046-09560) the inner was expensive. Found it on Amayama (45503-0C030) which was way cheaper even with overnight shipping from Japan (any Fast and Furious 1 fans here?).
Because the outer part was stuck, I couldn't remove the inner's boot and had to just pull it back while trying to grip it with a pipe wrench. Thankfully it broke free pretty easy. Still had to get the boot off though if I wanted to reuse it. Used cutoff wheel to cut the outer part off and slide the boot out. New parts went in easy. Took it back to the dealer the next morning and had them finish the alignment. Thankful it's done!

 

Did the exact same thing a couple of weeks ago. Such a pain in the ass.

Edit: I heard Hector is gong to be running 3 Honda Civics with spoon engines.

 

and on top of that, he just went into Harry's and bought three T66 turbos with nos, and a motec exhaust system.

 

Bye bye bed...

 

Swapped out this crusty SOB today and got a coolant drain and fill in at the same time, it was fun

 

At how many miles on the odometer did you notice the leak?

 

Probably right around 85k if I remember correctly, I had been putting it off for a while and just rolled over 100k


Edit: It was actually right at 93,000 miles I guess when I first noticed it leaking, just found an old post I made right when I first discovered it. Feels like I’ve done a lot more driving since then. I bought a little Acura gas getter I had been driving to commute with so that has helped keep some miles off the tundra this last year and 1/2.


https://www.tundras.com/threads/coolant-leak-just-showed-up….133215/#post-3382835

 

Nice!!

 

After tempting incentives on some new RAMs, Gladiators, and Tundras...Made the call to hold on to the 2019 SR for another year. Grabbing some parts and new set of tires over the 4th of July sales.
(Yes...actually considered the RAMs and Gladiators as replacements. I've had a couple of RAMS without issues (just gotta know what to watch and do) and a Gladiator cause...well, just dang fun and I don't need the heavy pickup capacity that much anymore. I have resisted the urges to live another day!)

 

Who makes the flatbed? Rough cost? I'm wanting to do this but I think its above what I want to spend to do it.

 

Nice!!

 

No pictures, but did the rear diff fluid change with valvoline

$39 75w-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75w-90 synthetic and the t-case with ravenol 75W. rear diff was replaced under warranty at 35k so got new fluid then, and now just approaching 70k. both fluids were fairly dark. the replacement fluids were nearly clear! this was the 1st t-case change. will probably shorten the interval for both seeing the condition of the fluids, as I do a lot of towing. also did a drain and fill on the trans. started doing them annually at 50k with the toyota trans fluid...also darker than i'd like but no weird smells...need to figure out a better way to put the new fluid in. using a extractor syringe for lack of a better term, to pump the new fluid in takes forever and is a messy PITA.

 

Got the P0418 code and decided to replace both of the SAI pumps, which was a pain to align properly. I then tried to erase the code, but had no luck, the OBD scanner said it was erased, but the light is still on and the code keeps coming back.

I've been doing some research and decided to check the SAI relay, but I can't seem to access it or figure out how to replace it. There doesn’t appear to be any standard access, and I can't see inside to determine if anything is shorted. The fuse box lid indicates there are four relays or fuses on that line, but I can’t seem to see or access them to test.

Any help on how to remove the A/PUMP NO. 2 50A fuse or relay would be greatly appreciated.

 

Much better way from up top from the engine bay with qt bottle fill tube and 5/8 ID hose from Home Depot. Poke a vent hole in the bottom of the transmission fluid bottle.
Tool Demo Guy has a good YouTube video on the process
https://youtube.com/shorts/huk5fPAw84c?si=caW17xxyAhOud_t4

 

Looks awesome. When you start to think about it, a flat bed make way more sense than a standard bed..

 

thanks, i'll give this a go next time. that looks much better.

 

Oil change, 8qts out, 7.5qts in.

 

Finally made the grab handle upgrade. My wife loves it and I am finding that I am using it!
The start:
Old panel removed
New panel cut to fit
Lowes hardware used
And the results