What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Is this what would be needed to use the kit along with the Coachbuilder spacer kit? @jackienguyener @reywcms

 

Didn’t realize 2.5 gen was that much bigger than first gen

 

I’ve got a mitchmade unit which is different than what he posted. But it seems yes that would be needed.

 

I do have a 3.5in lift on mine and the fender flares with the wider tires but on the same note I think when the 07 came out they said the double cab had the same interior space and the 06 crew cab so that would make the 07-21 crewmax that much bigger.

 

Yes. But honestly, I don’t think you’d need it. I bought the $120 kit for the CSB spacers and didn’t end up using them. You should be able to reuse what you already have

 

Good morning
Question: When replacing your upper control arms, are you properly torqueing down the bolt/nut? Or are you just doing the ugga ugga method? If you are properly torqueing, how are you getting the socket/wrench on the nut for the driver's side? There's no room to fit a socket on the nut. I'm able to get the socket/wrench easily on the bolt head but is that providing the proper torque spec needed?

Any tips? Recommend tool? TIA

 

I’ve always just torqued from where I can get the wrench on.

 

If the bolt can spin freely then your torque should be relatively the same when applied to the nut or the bolt. Is not exact, but it’s within the range of ugga duggas.
Otherwise, you could get a crowfoot wrench - technically it adds distance so the torque wrench value will be lower than what is actually applied, but not by that much in this application. You could calculate that difference if you wanted to get fancy but I wouldn’t sweat it

 

They have to be on torque wrench at 90 degree angle. Probably can find single longer ones in size you need.

 

Appreciate the quick responses!

I got the torque wrench on the bolt and it felt like I was overtightening so I backed off and left it loose for now. I also thought of using crowfoot to see if I can get on the nut side. Unfortunately I don't have a 22 crowfoot nor do I have another vehicle so I ended up ordering it on Amazon. Should be here today!

$17 FLZOSPER 1/2” Drive Metric 22mm Fractional Crowfoot Flare Nut Wrench, Fully Polished Ratcheting Crowfoot Wrench，Open End Crows Foot Wrench，Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D59QQTJ9

 

Nice! That looks like it would also work

 

If anything, I would expect turning the bolt would under tighten slightly due to the (potential) added resistance of the bolt turning.

 

That reassuring to hear. Thank you. Last thing I want is to snap that bolt. I felt like I was about to.

 

I was always taught if using adapters 90 degree angle no calculations require however this may help if you go on straight.

https://belknaptools.com/extensions-calculator/

 

Super helpful. Thanks
I've also always used extensions at 90° so this will be helpful if I can't get the 90° angle with the crowfoot.

 

Hit the trail yesterday with the steepest climb and descent we have around.

 

As an engineer…that isn’t 100% accurate, but it is close enough for the degree of precision needed for this sort of application.

Spoiler: Nerd alert:

Torque is a measurement of force applied at a specific distance from the center of rotation. A Foot-Pound is one pound of force applied exactly one foot away from the center of the bolt.

Your torque wrench is made to pop/break over at the set torque based on that setting and a specific distance from the center of the anvil to the setting point in the wrench. If you “choke up” on the wrench, it won’t change the applied torque because the internal setting is built into the wrench (it will make it harder for you to apply the needed force though).

Adding anything to the anvil that changes the center of the rotation will change the applied torque. It’s a straight line from the pre-determined point in the wrench and the center of rotation.

If we assume the point in the handle is exactly 1 foot from the center of the anvil, and you add an offset (crowfoot or one of the box-end versions) that is exactly 3” long from the center of the anvil square to the center of the hex, then you would measure the new applied length from the point in the handle to the new hex:
If straight forward, the distance is 15”
If straight backward, the distance is 9”
If 90*, the distance is 12-3/8”

The amount of actual torque applied (above or under the value of the wrench) is the difference between the wrench’s calibrated length and the actual length above - 125% for scenario 1, 75% for scenario 2, and 103% for scenario 3.