What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

What's the stock 20s offset? +60? I'd say a good 1.5" spacer would fit 35s just fine.

 

not sure, they are the stock TSS 20" wheels

 

Definitely clean. I wanted a better solution to mount phone chargers

 

This is true. Last sale something I ordered was taking longer than I expected so I gave the dealership a call. Was told there had been thousands of orders and there was just one guy handling them all.

 

You need at least one beer to sit and admire your work after clean up and putting tools away. Preferably in a comfortable lawn chair.

 

Yall must take a lot of piss breaks when working on projects.

 

It's hot enough here you just sweat it out as fast as you put it in.

 

Cleaned the engine bay scrubbing bubbles and then rinsed it off. I could’ve done a better job on the hood. Next time I’ll do better.

 

I ordered a new hood bulge from Amazon. I was going to replace the OEM clips with the beautiful sea green ones and most of the mounts on the bulge were broken. I hate it when my bulge is broken......

 

Figured if I was gonna have to remove the head unit to run another RCA input for my aux bumper-mounted reverse camera, I may as well add some accent lighting for the front. Mocked up a VLEDS blue interior 3” bar light (with dimmer) - still need to remove the head unit and wire it to dash illumination.

 

Replaced the front rotors and pads. I'll do the rear this weekend. Looks like the Frozen rotors don't require a bedding process.

 

Haven't ordered it yet but sharing here for visibility.

Scangauge 3 is $50 on Advanced Auto, using code SPRING, brings it down to $219 and free shipping.

I may just jump on that myself.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...Yk71SD813XUnE4SvuA4kkxCVyK9WKIZAaAkqmEALw_wcB

 

That's beautiful!! Looks like the cockpit of a jet or something!!

 

Even if the rotors don't say to do it, I believe it is best practice to do it anyways since the pads will also benefit from it. I'm sure someone more qualified than myself can confirm. It would be unfortunate to leave braking performance "on the shelf" because it wasn't accomplished.

 

I had SportStop Cryo's before the BBK, and their instructions had a bedding process (as did the BBK). I personally do it anytime I get new rotors.

 

Frozen paperwork only shoes bedding for race cars and high performance/mutlistop such as semis ambulances etc. Can they still be bedding if they have about 50 miles of light braking on them?

 

Yes absolutely bed them in

 

Ok...so the 50 miles won't be an issue?

 

Any recommended process or are they all about the same?

 

Nah - 50 miles being on them won't do anything. Bedding instructions for my recent rotors actually said the procedure can be done again down the road if braking performance isn't ideal - with no mention of miles being on the new brakes. (Also, for what it's worth, the braking performance difference I experienced was huge afterwards.)

Procedures are usually the same.... 6 or 8+ stops from ~60mph to ~10mph in succession, w/o allowing the brakes time to cool down (if you have to stop during the process - put it in park, don't keep foot on brake). Afterwards, drive it around for 5 mins or so at hwy speeds to let the brakes cool down. I got on my local toll road hwy on a Saturday at 5am last time I did it....no one else around.

 

Thanks....I'll do it tomorrow after I swap the rears out.

 

The Google box says repeating the bedding-in process can actually help throughout the life of the brake components when there is a loss of braking performance or even a pulsing brake pedal. I know this has worked even on my factory brakes that didn't get used aggressively and would occasionally pulse. Be aggressive with the braking when performing the process (Hawk and Stop Tech procedures are pretty standard) - just don't come to a complete stop during the cycles.