What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Can anyone TLDR the differences in a ‘19-21 vs ‘17 Tundra for me?

Tempted to trade my ‘17 on for the updated gen 2.5 just because odometer. Iirc that gets me LED lights, radar cruise, were there any other changes? CarPlay?

My current is just an SR5, and the rear sags pretty bad when I hook to a trailer. Does the TRD Pro’s different suspension hold hitch weight better? Is there any difference in payload/tow capacity going to the Pro?

 

2019-2021 lost the transmission cooler. If you're towing, you will need to add one. DIY for around $800-900 in parts. Add labor if you're not the handy type. I think Tundras got CarPlay in 2020. My '21 has smart handles, Toyota Safety Sense, push-start, CarPlay, dual climate, and LED headlights.

IMO, there is ZERO reason for you to trade into another 2.5gen truck. Every time I see someone's signature with 2014, 2017, 2021 trucks having been owned, I just wonder...why??? They last forever...why are you trading bombproof trucks every couple of years? Makes zero sense to me. I think people start to feel antsy, and they want the excitement of the new thing again. That's a needlessly expensive feedback loop to get stuck in, especially if you're trading in to a slightly newer version of the same thing.

Every Tundra's rear suspension sags when hooked to a trailer. The OEM leaf springs are meant more for articulation on uneven terrain. The Tundra has no rear locker, so it is imperative to keep both rear tires on the ground for traction.

A TRD Pro is actually WORSE at towing/hauling because it has has a 2" lift up front and shocks designed for more travel yet also still has the same rear leafs meant for articulation. They squat worse compared to a non-Pro stock vs stock. The Pro is great off-road (for a stock full-size truck, mind you), but absolutely needs help if it's going to be a tow pig.

I would think that you own your 2017 outright by now...is that correct? How many miles do you have? Shocks and leafs wear out over time. Why not research what you can install on your own truck to help it better tow your trailer? Trading in your truck for mid-$20k, going into debt for another $20-25k once all the fees and closing costs are worked out (or just paying that out of pocket) on essentially the exact same thing makes zero sense to me. I mean, it's your truck plus safety features most people hate and CarPlay. Is it really worth making the move?

You probably need new shocks at this point. Add RAS to the rear. Here's a link.

 

Thanks, lots of good points here. I’m at 130,000 km so far from miled out, I’m more just wanting those creature comforts of the updated model (LED headlights, radar cruise, OEM CarPlay because Pioneer crashes all the time and smart handles)

is that worth $20k…probably not, but I want to get all this info together before I start asking around at dealers

What it comes down to is I have zero interest in the gen 3’s so looking at settling into this one for the long haul, might as well find one with the updated features I want before the ‘21s get all beat to shit and worn out by other guys

 

A decent head unit upgrade can fix the carplay issue for you for a few hundred - 1k $ (even them funny Canada dolhairs) Led headlights are a plug and play item thanks to @iHacker harnesses, again under 1K.

The suspension, look at rear setups other trailer towing guys here run and see which way they went. I bet you can get into that a few K.

The only thing I see that you list as a want, which you can not get on your 17. Radar Cruise.

It comes down to putting say 5k or so in, to get 90% of what you want. Or trading, then still needing to spend some to get it towing sag fixed, and having 20K out...

 

Also to add, Unless you are suffering due to lack of maintenance, or rust for some reason, 130k KM is nothing. Many people would say you need another 32K to break that thing in.

 

Installed Desert Does It seat jackers (front only) and MMP panels. The previous owner put WeatherTech liners in, and wow, the rear liner is large-ish. Now to decide what I'm going to use the MMP panels for. I'm giving much consideration to a fire extinguisher. Maybe a fist mount for a Modlite Hog.

 

Yeah, if he gets a new truck, then he still would need to add RAS to the rear or get leaf packs or something.

My ‘21 has 65k miles (104k km). I would expect a LOT more miles out of any 5.7 Tundra.

 

New fluid containment arrived. Found that having them in my pelican case didn't survive. So now to see where to mount them.

 

Thank you.

 

What battery to put in my '21
Original Toyota battery is at half strength now

What is the biggest strongest it will fit and what are the pros/cons of such a battery?

Thanks.

 

Took it fishing.

 

Did she catch anything

 

Took the trailer in for its first service:

 

Yup.

 

He said he took it fishing. Nothing was said about "catching".

 

I’ll wet a line for a few minutes as I’m already here, but relaxing with the Mrs. A sandwich, and a few beers. If I bring something home for the freezer then good for me. Just need down time.

 

Look into either a X2 Power AGM, Odyssey or if you prefer to stay with water filled batteries, look at the Interstate varients...AGMs will need a diode in the ALT-S fuse under the hood to trick the ECM into charging it at its preferred rating of 14.6-8volts...the diode is on Amazon, O'rielys, ebay...most places for like $8...more CCA, better amp hour ratings and better in both extreme temperatures of hot/cold...best battery I've ever owned is my X2Power...I have them in ALL of my different vehicles because they work and are very reliable if you charge them at their preferred voltage...

 

That doesn't look like a LI beach.

 

Democrat Point, Suffolk County. Finishing the evening off with a nice Woodford Reserve, poolside.

 

Timely - my original just gave up the ghost. Which X2 battery do you recommend? how many CCA? Can you help the stupid guy with a link to the specific diode replacement?

 

I got mine replaced under the b2b warranty. Have you given that a try?

 

I think that ended at 20,000 or two years
Battery still works, I just want a strong upgrade

 

Hell yeah brutha! https://www.tundras.com/threads/charging-diode-for-agm-batteries.111426/

https://www.tundrastall.134029/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/agm-battery-charging.97564/

Best link is the last...Ford/GM...same coin, different side

930CCA: https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli27fagmdp

 

Installed Borne 1” spacers. Running BF Goodrich tires 275/65/18, and Tundra is looking a bit meaner today.

 

$340 for the AGM with discounts (plus diode etc / 930 CCA) - 4 year warranty - assuming 4 years then $85/year
$115 for Interstate/Costco - 3 year warranty [710 CCA] - assuming 3 years then $39/year
Isn't that at worst less than half price? Disregarding warranties it is 1/3 cost. Not to be cheap (well maybe) but is there that great of an advantage to AGM batteries (220 CCA) to pay three times the price? As I read the reviews on here they are mixed.
Edited to add CCA numbers

 

Might be colder where you are, but in Mass, my OEM battery has started no problem at and below 0 degrees. 3 years and fingers crossed. It's fun to upgrade things, but I am with you, without a lot of extra electronics to power, I don't see the point.

 

Pulled into the driveway this morning and missed it by a mile... (not the driveway)

 

The internet is good for wasting money on stuff you don’t need. I just grab the cheap batts and they usually last me about 5yrs in the Texas heat and then I get a new one. Been working for the last 25yrs.

 

Same.

Whatever is on sale. It's a battery. Walmart and AutoZone are everywhere. It goes bad, I change it.

I'm not wasting my time installing an AGM. The reliability isn't great enough for me to offset the extra money they cost.