What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Just post up in there. We do that stuff all the time. But yeah, it does go in different directions.

 

I’m giving it a try with some gel super glue my wife had.
Is it janky? Absolutely
Was it free? Yes
Will it work? Stay tuned to find out
Do I get to sniff glue either way? You bet

I figured I’ll have enough leverage to break the glue free, so I’m using a long flathead in place of a steel rod. If not, well then I’m out an old flathead

 

do you have a link to the thread? a quick google isn't pulling it up.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/bikes-and-tundra.9268/page-70#post-3596030

 

Had the dobinson IMS shocks on there. These ride way better on road. Off road haven't been able to do much but just hitting the little things around here it's way more in control, and way less harsh on big bumps. Those dobinsons were stiff!

I've only got about 200 miles on them so far so time will tell but it's night and day. I can't compare to kings or fox as I never had them or rode in a tundra that had them.

I've got the compression and rebound pretty soft on the back so it's a little floaty and I'm still playing around with those settings for on road but I'm close to dialed in for street. The shop that installed them had them in the middle for compression and rebound and I hit a speed hump/cushion and rear kind of stayed packed ( I hit it at 55mph), rear end bounced a bit, so loosening up the rebound was necessary. Second go around with 10 clicks instead of 20 I just drove right through it no issues.

I put c rated tires (had e rated before) on about a week before these shocks and that did very little for ride quality compared to what these shocks have done.

If I had any complaint it would be that I got used to the stiff af dobinsons where I could take corners pretty quick with no lean, these aren't the best for cornering, but wtf it's a truck why is that even a negative

 

If you are willing to spend more money.... check out the RAS. Will help with body roll but still allow the rear sides to act independently (compared to if you added a rear sway bar). Colton would be able to tell you if they would have any negative affect on the shocks, you might just have to play around with your rear rebound since the RAS would play in to that some too.

 

Dropped the rig off should be done Wednesday. 3.0s arrived today and sold the 2.5s already. Heat shrunk the clamp need some fresh hardware and hopefully throw these in later this week.

 

Did a fun thing over the past two weekends.

Red is gross, cavalry blue all the way.

 

RCI Slider installation technique update: I revised the bolt holding design to just be a piece of solid #12 wire (neutral in this case) with the same super glued nut/washer combo which worked like an absolute charm to get the gas tank bolt in place. Am I screwed if I ever need to pull my sliders? Absolutely. But that’s a problem for future me



And a massive thanks to @Tripleconpanna for the idea fuel

 

Anyone that has installed the Deaver Leaf add-on pack (F85) I was under the impression it replaces the overload leaf but I watched this video of a guy that left the overload leaf in? (*see pic)

Also, are the U-bolts they sell required for the install? thanks in advance

 

Best practice is to install new u-bolts whenever installing new leaves or and add-a-leaf. So yes

 

Trying to diagnose why my fog lights won’t turn on: I checked the 15A fuse related to the fog lights in the engine bay fuse box and all good there. I swapped the fog light relay with another relay and no luck. So, I jumped the relay using a paper clip and the fog lights turned on ruling out the wiring harness to the lights and the lights themselves. So, I hopped into the interior and tested for 12v at each fuse in the interior fuse box because I have no clue if one of them controls the fog light switch… and all good there. Ripped out the driver side dashboard to see if I could trace the steering column wiring harness, but didn’t see anything noticeable. Which leaves to my conclusion… either I have a faulty switch in the steering column (headlights/brights/turn signals still work) or the fog light wiring from the switch to the engine bay fuse box is shorted. Either way, this is above my hobbyist pay grade. Time to send it to a shop... FML.

 

Which spray paint did you end up using? I found that the recommended Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamel easily chips and ripples with relatively light use (paved road driving).

 

The headlight switch was pretty easy. Bonus, my 14 was pre wired for auto sensing, just need to add the sensor and get the headlight switch with the option (limited or plat I think).

 

Can you provide some instructions/video and the part number (mine doesn’t have auto sensing, just off/on) to replace it? I’d love to do it myself!

 

Look at that Badland sneaking into the pic lol.

 

The MVP of the install lol. Made it way easier to do the work solo

 

Yes. Ubolts have a rolled thread that "deforms" when torque is applied. They are designed as a one time use.

 

I have 2 of them. Makes tire rotations a hell of alot easier.

 

Try here for video instructions... not the best, but not bad either.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Se58jNik5Bk

Here is an old forum thread on it. to include the PDF instructions link, and link to the Tundratalk site where it was posted before.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/auto-on-headlights.12967/

Headlight switch
https://www.sparksparts.com/oem-parts/toyota-headlamp-switch-841400e100

sensor --- I ordered the sensor from ebay or scamazon where it was way cheaper, and it works just fine, came in the yota package with proper part #.
https://www.sparksparts.com/oem-parts/toyota-sun-load-temperature-sensor-8912106020

 

Rolled over 100k about a week ago...still like a new one...with only plans to check the brakes, new shocks, trans and other fluid changes, and soon as I can afford it, new head unit. Oil change today...once again, Fumoto for the win...whoot!

 

$37 Spectral Paints Compatible/Replacement for Toyota 8W2 Cavalry Blue 12 oz. Aerosol Spray Paint

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076B88D4Q

The color match is darn near perfect. I didn't prime it before, or clear coat it after. I did sand it a bit to clear off the gloss finish from the red TRD paint.
Also, it's a sway bar, I couldn't care less if it gets scratched. That being said, I did the rear sway bar a few months ago and the paint seems to be holding up.

 

That’s awesome… thank you for the video and part info. Curse this forum… looks like I’m going to being adding an auto headlight sensor and hopefully fix the fog light switch in the process!

 

Thanks for the link! I’ll definitely have to try this spray paint next time when I respray my tow hooks.

 

What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

That was from when I did my rear. You can see how close the color is.

 

Let me know if you get any vibrations. I just got new tires and rode smooth as glass, put on the 1” Boras and now the steering wheel has some vibes.

 

Pretty smooth overall. Need to get an alignment to ensure camber is still good, but no issues at highway speeds.

Biggest issue was realizing the dealership must have taken an air chisel to my CV axel nut cover. They dented the hub and I had to file that down for the one spacer to fit. Room a few chunks.out of the spacer, too.

 

Looks

 

Did you also check the fuse in the kick panel on the vehicle's interior??? I'm assuming you did, but didn't see that step in your write up, so thought I'd ask....

The fuse and relay under the hood are easily identified as being related to fog lights. However, iirc there's an additional one in the kick panel that deals w/a couple of different systems labeled 'tail' and is a 15amp fuse... *** not sure if all model years are the same, but take a quick look ***

It should sit almost directly across from a 30amp 'dual slot' fuse labeled 'power 1'... I'm not sure why the tail light fuse would be tied into the fog lights (really makes no sense to me), but this was the problem for a couple of folks that did fog light upgrades in the factory location....

 

Pretty sure if that tail light fuse is blown, the transmission is " bricked". You won't be able to get it out of park.